Restaurants – The Maine Mag https://www.themainemag.com Thu, 09 Mar 2023 18:33:09 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Smooth Sailing at Wandby Landing https://www.themainemag.com/smooth-sailing-at-wandby-landing/ Thu, 09 Mar 2023 18:33:03 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64827 The story of the SS Wandby is well known by locals in the Kennebunks. In 1921 the British steamship came ashore in a thick fog and wrecked just east of Walker’s Point, home to the Bush family compound. After it

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The large, 22-seat bar at Kennebunk’s Wandby Landing has become a favorite among locals.

The story of the SS Wandby is well known by locals in the Kennebunks. In 1921 the British steamship came ashore in a thick fog and wrecked just east of Walker’s Point, home to the Bush family compound. After it was determined the 334-foot ship couldn’t be towed off the rocks, another ship was sent from England to fetch the crew. According to records published by the Kennebunkport Historical Society, the sailors were taken in by locals and shown a good time: barbecues on the beach, dancing, clam digging, and even a trip to Portland.

Matt Dyer, whose new restaurant Wandby Landing is located on Western Avenue, some half a mile from the shipwreck site, says “that was the start of hospitality [in the Kennebunks].” He named his restaurant after the generosity the locals showed to the Wandby crew and aims to “show people what [we] love about Kennebunk—it’s very important to us to be a part of the community.” And Wandby Landing, which opened last July, has quickly become a hit with the locals of the seasonal community.

Wandby Landing serves an Italian-influenced menu and sits on a three-acre parcel adjacent to a skinny tributary of the Kennebunk River. The property was home to On the Marsh Bistro for 20 years, which closed after the owner decided to retire during the pandemic shutdown. Matt and his wife, Mariah, both longtime Kennebunkport and Portland hospitality professionals, bought the property and renovated its nineteenth-century farmhouse. The remodeling, which transformed the first floor, included removing some walls and adding a large, 22-seat bar and wine room.

The restaurant’s renovated bar area has several cozy corners for diners.

The bar has become a favorite for locals as a place to chat with friends and enjoy a specialty cocktail or a glass of wine from an extensive collection curated by Matt. The couple previously worked at Batson River Brewing and Distilling’s Kennebunk location, Matt as a cofounder and Mariah as the front-of-house manager, and the two have used their industry knowledge to create an intriguing but approachable bar program. Matt tells me that the bar has become such a hotspot that the homeowners of the adjoining neighborhood have cut a path through the woods to the back of Wandby Landing’s property for easy access.

Beyond the bar, chef Michael Bergin’s menu of appealing small plates, handmade pastas, and charcoal-grilled meats is equally responsible for the restaurant’s draw. Bergin, who moved to Maine from Boston with his family in August 2020, worked for years at several fine dining French and Italian restaurants in Boston and New York City. Once in Maine, he took a job with Big Tree Hospitality, working at Honey Paw in Portland and at the restaurant group’s Biddeford commissary kitchen.

Chef Michael Bergin’s menu of rustic Italian cuisine includes a selection of handmade pastas like tortelloni en brodo and buttercup squash agnolotti with brown butter and sage.

During my visit to Wandby Landing, I am seated at a large, cozy table flanked by a tall leather banquette in the restaurant’s quiet second-floor dining room. I begin my meal with fried calamari rings mixed with pickled peppers and piled in a bowl of tangy, thick pomodoro sauce. I also enjoy the miniature Mangalitsa pork ribs, a special of the evening, sourced from Gunnycreek Farms in nearby Arundel. The fatty ribs come shellacked with a smoky, sweet serrano glaze and sprinkled with fried shallots, fresh mint leaves, and scallions.

The kale and frisée salad acts as a nice palate cleanser between courses, with thick slices of pear and salty cheese that offset the bitter edge of the greens. The walnut vinaigrette delivers a pleasantly astringent finish to each bite. Next comes a round of pasta, thoughtfully offered in half and whole portions. The tortelloni en brodo is the standout. Bergin later tells me it’s a dish that he sees as an extension of himself, its intricate preparation embodying his appreciation for from-scratch cooking. “I’m not a flashy dude,” he says. “I really believe I was born in the wrong decade. I’m like a 70-year-old man in a 39-year-old’s body.” The mortadella-filled tortelloni come floating in a rich broth that takes seven days to make, each day bringing another round of clarifying and the addition of more roasted poultry bones. The result is swoon-worthy, delivering a depth of flavor that keeps me spooning up the broth long after the tortelloni are gone.

Cavatelli all’amatriciana with roasted red onion and pancetta.

While entrees are served à la carte at Wandby Landing, each dish contains enough complementary elements to stand alone. The pork coppa, a cut of the shoulder roast, is a tender slab of meat slow-cooked in pork fat then grilled and finished with a reduced sauce made of apple cider, soy sauce, and fish sauce. The pile of thinly sliced fennel and apples topping it cuts through the dish’s rich sweetness. My husband’s grilled swordfish is unbelievably tender and rests in a pool of buttery caper-filled pan sauce with tender pieces of artichokes.

After one last course of a delicate panna cotta topped with blueberry compote and tender squares of lemon poppyseed cake, my dinner companions and I step out into the cool evening air and are met by the sounds of peepers coming from the nearby marsh. We’re a short distance from the hustle and bustle of Kennebunkport but feel a world apart. After being shown the gracious hospitality of Wandby Landing, I momentarily wish I was a shipwrecked sailor, stepping through a wooded path back to the warm home of my host family for the night.

Wandby Landing owners Mariah and Matt Dyer.

Wandby Landing

46 Western Ave., Kennebunk
207.849.8849
wandbylanding.com

Italian-influenced dishes, including handmade pasta and wood-fired pizza, made with local ingredients; a robust wine list of new- and old-world varietals; and seasonally inspired specialty cocktails.

Appetizers $16–$18
Pastas $23–$30
Entrees $32–$35

Hours
Dinner: Thursday–Sunday, 4 p.m.–9 p.m.

Read More:

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A Fine-Dining Staple in Brunswick Lives Up to its Predecessor https://www.themainemag.com/a-fine-dining-staple-in-brunswick-lives-up-to-its-predecessor/ Sat, 01 Oct 2022 09:00:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64093 When Steve and Michelle Corry opened their fine-dining restaurant at 555 Congress Street in 2003, it was part of an emerging cadre of Portland date-night destinations, such as Fore Street, Street and Co., Rob Evans’s Hugo’s, and Walter’s on Exchange

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When Steve and Michelle Corry opened their fine-dining restaurant at 555 Congress Street in 2003, it was part of an emerging cadre of Portland date-night destinations, such as Fore Street, Street and Co., Rob Evans’s Hugo’s, and Walter’s on Exchange Street. Five Fifty-Five became known for its elevated American cuisine and impeccable service just as chefs across the country were embracing the farm-to-table movement. Chef Steve Corry was the first in Portland to serve truffled lobster mac and cheese, a now-classic comfort food mash-up that became the restaurant’s signature dish.

In the nearly two decades that have passed, a lot has changed, both in the Portland restaurant scene and in the Corrys’ lives. The couple opened their second restaurant, the French bistro Petite Jacqueline, and they had two sons, now teenagers. In early 2020 Steve and Michelle decided to close Five Fifty-Five to spend more time with their family. This proved to be a prescient decision, as COVID struck a few weeks later and pandemic restrictions hastened the restaurant’s discontinuance. The Corrys thought perhaps they would reopen Five Fifty-Five someday in a location closer to their home in Scarborough.

Then Steve’s friend Gerard Kiladjian, another longtime hospitality professional, called to ask if Steve was interested in reopening Five Fifty-Five in Brunswick. Kiladjian had signed on to manage the recently renovated Federal Hotel and was looking for a familiar name to anchor the property’s 150-seat restaurant. Corry initially said no, but after visiting to see the renovation of the historic property and negotiating a favorable schedule that would allow the couple plenty of family time, Five Fifty-Five was reborn.

Dubbed 555 North, the restaurant echoes its Portland predecessor with some familiar dishes and a time-tested approach to serving seasonal ingredients in palate-pleasing ways. Fans of the previous iteration will recognize several signature dishes on the menu, and will enjoy the same friendly and attentive service. The new restaurant is much brighter and larger than the old one, with floor-to-ceiling windows flanking one wall of the dining room and a large center bar that Steve plans to develop into a raw bar.

When I visit on a Friday night, we’re guided to our table in the side room by a young hostess. The restaurant is full, generating a pleasant buzz from our fellow patrons. Michelle Corry is known for her wine selection, having garnered a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2015, so I opt for a glass of a Chilean cabernet sauvignon to start the meal. With about 75 options, the list here is slimmer than the 400-plus bottles at Five Fifty-Five, but it still offers a crowd-pleasing variety of new- and old-world wines by the glass and bottle.

As I enjoy a slice of the housemade bread, served warm and slathered with delightfully salty chive-lemon butter, I see grilled Caesar salad and steamed mussels on the menu. The two dishes were staples at Five Fifty-Five, so I order both to begin the meal. The salad, which comes thoughtfully split between two plates after our server hears that my husband and I plan to share it, delivers a slightly smoky char from the grilled romaine and a classic creamy dressing with plenty of lemon. The meaty Bangs Island mussels are surrounded by a garlicky broth spiked with pickled cherry peppers that lend a pleasant heat.

The lobster mac and cheese has been temporarily replaced by the more summery “Knuckle Sandwich,” a stack of fried green tomatoes and a lobster salad dressed with basil-lemon mayonnaise that Steve developed for Food and Wine magazine. As the weather cools, the luxurious dish made with a blend of five cheeses and studded with chunks of butter-poached lobster will return to the menu. I opt for another Five Fifty-Five classic, the three-day marinated hangar steak, prepared on this night with a fresh chimichurri sauce and a side of rich, creamy, wilted spinach.

We also try the scallops, coated in freshly cracked black pepper and then seared until a hearty crust forms. Steve tells me later that applying high heat to the black pepper takes away some of the stinging spice, mellowing it into a warm complement to the meaty bivalve. Five scallops come arranged around a pile of fluffy mashed potatoes that are blended with a fennel cream sauce. An emulsion of carrot juice and butter, fragrant from the addition of vanilla bean seeds, completes the dish without overwhelming the fresh flavor of the scallops.

Desserts from sous chef Sean Hobson are also a hit, with the “Coffee and Donuts” standing out as the most popular. Three craggy beignets dusted with powdered sugar and accompanied by a mug of rich mocha pots de crème make a playful end to the meal. As the restaurant is only a few months old, 555 North is still finding its sea legs in its new iteration, but between Michelle’s front-of-the-house leadership and the competence of the kitchen team led by chef de cuisine Michael Greenstreet, the Corrys are confident their latest project will live up to the reputation of its predecessor.

555 North

10 Water St., Brunswick
207.481.4533

555-north.com

Approachable fine-dining fare with a focus on seasonal ingredients served in a historic boutique hotel.

Appetizers $3–$15
Entrees $15–$38
Desserts $10–$12

History in the Making
The Federal, home to 555 North, is a nineteenth-century sea captain’s home that takes its name from the building’s classic Federal style. Captain Daniel Stone began building the house around 1806 and lived in it until his death in 1825. The history of the property was part of what attracted Steve Corry to the project, as his Portland restaurant also had a storied history: the three-story building was once the home of the Machigonne Fire House, which had the illustrious honor of debuting Portland’s first steam-powered fire engine.

Hours
Dinner: Thursday–Monday, 5 p.m.–9 p.m.

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The Gastropub Reviving Maine’s Capital City https://www.themainemag.com/the-gastropub-reviving-maines-capital-city/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 19:32:43 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63854 In 2019, inspired in part by the city-led revitalization efforts of Water Street in downtown Augusta, longtime bartender Shawn McLaughlin and chef Matt Margolskee decided it was the right time to open a restaurant together. The two friends had met

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Rigatoni with Italian sausage receives a drizzle of olive oil before it’s served.

In 2019, inspired in part by the city-led revitalization efforts of Water Street in downtown Augusta, longtime bartender Shawn McLaughlin and chef Matt Margolskee decided it was the right time to open a restaurant together. The two friends had met years prior in the midcoast when McLaughlin was managing the Cellardoor Winery tasting room and Margolskee was cooking at farm-to-table pioneer Primo, and they envisioned a neighborhood pub with a variety of handmade ramens and a strong cocktail program. Between the city’s burgeoning restaurant scene and resurging interest in the state’s capital city, it seemed like it was Augusta’s moment.

So the pair bought a derelict former deli on Water Street and performed an extensive renovation. State Lunch opened its doors for business in late February 2020 to an enthusiastic reception from the city. But “it ended up that it was the worst time [to open a restaurant],” McLaughlin says, since the onset of the pandemic meant they had to switch to takeout and delivery only three weeks after opening. But two and a half years later, State Lunch has fully rebounded, and the city has embraced it as a go-to spot for elevated comfort food and well-mixed cocktails.

So popular is State Lunch that, when I call a few days prior to my planned visit, the hostess tells me the reservations are full for Saturday night, but that they save plenty of tables for walk-in customers. When I arrive a few days later, the brick-walled bar and dining room are a hive of activity, with a large party of several generations enjoying a celebratory dinner and Augusta’s young locals filling the 12-seat bar. There’s about a ten-minute wait, so I walk down the street to the Oak Table and Bar, another relatively new restaurant contributing to Augusta’s downtown renewal, for a drink.

After only a few sips of my Earl Grey–infused vodka grapefruit cocktail, my table is ready, so I head back to State Lunch for a seat at the long stone bar. Above the bar’s extensive collection of local spirits, 85 of which are whiskey, two televisions play 1971’s Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory and then the 2005 remake. The classic film inspires me to order the Golden Ticket, a take on a whiskey sour with added complexity from the addition of amaro and a housemade chile syrup.

The “All American” burger oozes with Thousand Island dressing and yolk from a fried egg.

As I sip my cocktail, I peruse the menu, which proves to be a mix of familiar Italian American specialties, like rigatoni with Italian sausage and chicken Parmesan, and dishes with a pan-Asian flair, ranging from fried Kung Pao brussels sprouts to pork belly steamed buns. I order a selection from both categories: an order of Rhode Island calamari and a Thai beef salad, both nightly specials, of which there are several. The calamari sports a thick, crunchy coating and is mixed with pickled peppers and arugula that deliver a zippy tanginess. The Thai salad is a fresh mix of seared beef strips and vegetables, tossed with a lime–fish sauce dressing and showered with chopped fresh herbs. An order of pork belly bao buns offers a rewarding contrast of fatty pork and crisp, pickled vegetables in a thick, pillowy bun.

My husband and I share entrees—the spicy shrimp shio ramen is a must for us, and while it’s difficult to narrow down our other choice, I ultimately am swayed by the seared scallops in an enticing pool of potato-leek puree with spinach, pork belly, and mushrooms. Six scallops with a perfectly crusty sear arrive on a large plate with nearly as many cubes of crispy pork belly. The vegetable puree creates a silky, cream-like base for the seafood, while floating dots of a green herb oil lighten the dish. The handmade ramen noodles and fat shrimp are surrounded by a rich, savory broth that Margolskee makes from a variety of roasted poultry and beef bones. He’s been developing the broth recipe since the restaurant opened and says it only gets better each week.

My next cocktail is a Hot Pursuit, a mezcal-based drink with a tropical blend of mango, jalapeño, and strawberry-infused Aperol. It showcases McLaughlin and his bar team’s talents behind the bar, which clearly are a big draw. Later he tells me that, while he never planned to serve margaritas, after offering them to-go during the pandemic they have become the restaurant’s top-selling drink. He now features a “margarita of the moment,” which changes frequently—recent iterations have included spicy blackberry-peach and strawberry-ginger.

McLaughlin and Margolskee recognize the give-and-take required to run a neighborhood place. They certainly have ideas about what State Lunch is and should be, but they also recognize that, to truly fit into a community, a restaurant needs to be there for its customers just as the customers are there for it. “At the end of the day,” says McLaughlin, “food is food, and you can get it at a lot of places, but the most important thing to me is the experience you give people and the way you make them feel.” And if that means serving margaritas alongside specialty cocktails with more obscure ingredients and preparations, then McLaughlin is happy to do just that.

State Lunch

217 Water St., Augusta
207.213.6025
statelunch.com

An upscale pub menu served in a hip, industrial space. Specialty and classic cocktails feature prominently alongside eight rotating beer taps.

Appetizers $8–$16
Entrees $16–$42
Dessert $8

A Serendipitous Discovery
Augusta’s Water Street was once a thriving downtown district that featured State Lunch, a diner that served breakfast and lunch. When the 2019 renovation of the long vacant space uncovered a stained-glass window that spelled out the restaurant’s name, McLaughlin was initially dismayed, feeling obligated to give his project the same name. Ultimately, he’s glad he embraced the location’s history. “Kind of like your kid’s name, you define your name and it becomes what it is,” he says. “Turns out, that’s who we are, and who we were supposed to be.”

Hours
Monday–Thursday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.–11 p.m.
Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

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The Inaugural Maine Food + Drink Reader’s Choice Awards https://www.themainemag.com/the-inaugural-maine-food-drink-readers-choice-awards/ Tue, 02 Aug 2022 00:52:05 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63575 The Inaugural Maine Food + Drink Reader’s Choice Awards A special section celebrating the restaurants, shops, and chefs who keep us fired up, blissed out, and full. Presented in Partnership with Eaton Peabody Issue: August 2022 For our inaugural Reader’s

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The Inaugural Maine Food + Drink Reader’s Choice Awards

A special section celebrating the restaurants, shops, and chefs who keep us fired up, blissed out, and full.

Presented in Partnership with Eaton Peabody

Issue: August 2022

For our inaugural Reader’s Choice Maine Food + Drink Awards, we asked our readers to nominate their favorites in 57 categories, from breweries to food trucks to raw bars. After tens of thousands of nominations sent in by nearly 7,000 readers, we tallied the top five in each category and asked for final votes. Let’s see who our readers considered to be the cream of the crop.

NEW RESTAURANT

WINNER
Wolfpeach
A stylish, year-round restaurant with creative takes on seafood dishes and a regionally focused beverage program.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
Garum! We make a range of garums (fermented fish sauce) in the traditional Roman style, which range from a fully vegetarian mushroom garum fermented with koji, to a mussel (from Pemaquid Mussel Farms) garum fermented with eel scraps from American Unagi.

50 Elm St., Camden | 207.230.8315
wolfpeachmaine.com
@wolfpeachmaine

FINALISTS

Burnt Ends Barbecue
736 Sabattus St., Lewiston | 207.241.0033
burntendslewiston.com
@burnt_ends_barbeque

Regards
547 Congress St., Portland | 207.747.5940
regardsmaine.com
@regards.maine

Hey Sailor
25 East Main St., Searsport | 207.306.9132
heysailorhey.com
@heysailorhey

Rio’s Spiked Cafe
357 West Main St., Searsport | 207.548.4016
riosspikedcafe.com
@riosspikedcafe

Chef

Winner
Melissa Kelly | Primo
Primo is located in a farmhouse on a few acres of land where chef and owner Melissa Kelly grows vegetables and flowers, raises animals, harvests honey, and perpetuates the farm-to-table cycle.

What is your most ordered item?
Pan-roasted halibut with crisp spaetzle, local asparagus, lobster, sweet cicely and a Meyer lemon beurre blanc, and Miner’s lettuce.

2 Main St., Rockland | 207.596.0770
primorestaurant.com
@primorestaurant

FINALISTS

Bobby Will | Salt and Steel
321 Main St., Bar Harbor | 207.288.0447
saltandsteelbh.com
@saltandsteelbh

Daron Goldstein | Provender Kitchen and Bar
112 Main St., Ellsworth | 207.610.1480
eatprovender.com
@provenderkitchen

Charlie Zorich | The Hichborn
10 Church St., Stockton Springs | 207.306.9069
thehichborn.com
@thehichborn

Ryan Lamon | Peter Trout’s Tavern and Inn
48 Shore Road, Southwest Harbor | 207.244.8619
petertrouts.com
@petertrouts

BARTENDER

WINNER
Brittany Parlin | State Lunch
The backbone of this award winning, globally inspired gastropub is its cocktail and whiskey menu. Bartender Brittany Parlin finds herself mostly serving up the margarita of the moment, the flavors of which rotate daily.

What is the most unusual item on your menu?
The “Veruca Salt” cocktail, which has avocado as the main ingredient.

217 Water St., Augusta | 207.213.6025
statelunch.com
@statelunch

FINALISTS

Kat Dougan | Hearth and Harbor
336 Main St., Southwest Harbor | 207.244.8247
hearthandharbor.net
@hearthandharbor

Caleb Landry | Blyth and Burrows
26 Exchange St., Portland | 207.466.2920
blythandburrows.com
@blythandburrows

Brian Catapang | Magnus on Water
12 Water St., Biddeford | 207.494.9052
magnusonwater.com
@magnusonwater

Mark Hibbard | Via Vecchia
10 Dana St., Portland | 207.407.7070
vvoldport.com
@vvoldport

RESTAURANT DESIGN

WINNER
Via Vecchia
Wendy Polstein of Quill Design drew inspiration from pre-World War I European bistros when designing this glam Old Port eatery with a u-shaped bar, emerald green velvet banquettes, and leather club chairs.

What is your most ordered item?
Housemade pasta!

10 Dana St., Portland | 207.407.7070
vvoldport.com
@vvoldport

FINALISTS

Provender Kitchen and Bar
112 Main St., Ellsworth | 207.610.1480
eatprovender.com
@provenderkitchen

Crispy Gài
90 Exchange St., Portland | 207.536.1017
crispygai.com
@crispygai

Hey Sailor
25 East Main St., Searsport | 207.306.9132
heysailorhey.com
@heysailorhey

Regards
547 Congress St., Portland | 207.747.5940
regardsmaine.com
@regards.maine

SEAFOOD SHACK

WINNER
McLoons Lobster Shack
Paper cups of lobster stew, fresh fish sandwiches, and baskets of roasted little-neck clams with melted butter—with a front-row view of ocean and islands.

When is your busiest day of the week?
Sunday.

315 Island Rd., South Thomaston | 207.593.1382
mcloonslobster.com
@mcloonslobster

FINALISTS

Five Islands Lobster Co.
1447 5 Islands Rd., Georgetown | 207.371.2990
fiveislandslobster.com
@fiveislandslobsterco

Red’s Eats, Wiscasset
41 Water St., Wiscasset | 207.882.6128
redseatsmaine.com
@reds_eats

Bite into Maine
Fort Williams Park, Cape Elizabeth
50 Industrial Way, Portland
185 US Route 1, Scarborough | 207.289.6142
biteintomaine.com
@biteintomaine

Carrier’s Mainely Lobster
10 ME-46, Bucksport | 207.469.1011
carriersmainelylobster.com
@carriersmainelylobster

COCKTAIL BAR

WINNER
State Lunch
The backbone of this award winning, globally inspired gastropub is its cocktail and whiskey menu. Bartender Brittany Parlin finds herself mostly serving up the margarita of the moment, the flavors of which rotate daily.

When is your busiest day of the week?
Everyday! But the weekends are especially busy.

217 Water St., Augusta | 207.213.6025
statelunch.com
@statelunch

FINALISTS

Blyth and Burrows
26 Exchange St., Portland | 207.466.2920
blythandburrows.com
@blythandburrows

Portland Hunt and Alpine Club
75 Market St., Portland | 207.747.4754
huntandalpineclub.com
@huntandalpine

Cocktail Mary
229 Congress St., Portland | 207.772.8993
cocktailmary.com
@cocktail_mary

Via Vecchia
10 Dana St., Portland | 207.407.7070
vvoldport.com
@vvoldport

NEIGHBORHOOD BAR

WINNER
Newcastle Publick House
A New England-style watering hole with craft beer on tap and a barbecue smoker.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
The soy cream used in our vegan cheese sauce for Mac and Cheese and Nachos.

52 Main St., Newcastle | 207.563.3434
newcastlepublickhouse.com
@newcastlepublick

FINALISTS

State Lunch
217 Water St., Augusta | 207.213.6025
statelunch.com
@statelunch

Ruski’s Tavern
212 Danforth St., Portland | 207.774.7604
@ruskistavern

Meridians
166 Main St., Fairfield | 207.742.0036
meridians.me
@meridians_the.restaurant

Tomaso’s Canteen
18 Hampshire St., Portland | 207.536.1285
tomasoscanteen.com
@tomasoscanteen

DINER

WINNER
Becky’s Diner
An iconic diner popular with both locals and tourists alike, serving up plate-sized blueberry pancakes and cheesy scrambled eggs.

What is your most ordered item?

The Hobson’s Wharf Special, which is our version of the “Lumberjack Breakfast:” bacon or sausage, two eggs, home fries, blueberry pancakes or French toast, and choice of toast.

390 Commercial St., Portland | 207.773.7070
beckysdiner.com
@beckysdiner207

FINALISTS

A1 Diner
3 Bridge St, Gardiner | 207.582.4804
@thea1diner

Palace Diner
18 Franklin St., Biddeford | 207.284.0015
palacedinerme.com
@palacediner

Downtown Diner
204 Water St., Augusta | 207.623.9656
@downtown.diner

Marcy’s Diner
47 Oak St, Portland | 207.774.9713
marcysdiner.com
@marcys_diner

FINE DINING

WINNER
Primo
Primo is located in a farmhouse on a few acres of land where chef and owner Melissa Kelly grows vegetables and flowers, raises animals, harvests honey, and perpetuates the farm-to-table cycle.

What is your most unusual item on the menu?
Either the octopus or the pig snout.

2 Main St., Rockland | 207.596.0770
primorestaurant.com
@primorestaurant

FINALISTS

Fore Street
288 Fore St., Portland | 207.775.2717
forestreet.biz
@288forestreet

Salt and Steel
321 Main St., Bar Harbor | 207.288.0447
saltandsteelbh.com
@saltandsteelbh

Wolfpeach
50 Elm St., Camden | 207.230.8315
wolfpeachmaine.com
@wolfpeachmaine

Lakewood Inn Restaurant
76 Theater Rd., Madison | 207.858.4403
lakewoodtheater.org
@lakewood_inn_restaurant

OUTDOOR DINING SPACE

WINNER
Flight Deck Brewing
Family-friendly brewpub with wood-fired pizza in a cool, funky space to gather and listen to music.

What is your most ordered item?
The WINGS IPA for beer, and “Flyin’ Dirty” for wood-fired pizza: pepperoni, shaved Parmesan cheese, and a drizzle of hot honey.

11 Atlantic Ave, Brunswick | 207.504.5133
flightdeckbrewing.com
@flightdeckbrewingco

FINALISTS

Terlingua
40 Washington Ave, Portland | 207.956.7573
terlingua.me
@terlinguabbq

Hearth and Harbor
336 Main St., Southwest Harbor | 207.244.8247
hearthandharbor.net
@hearthandharbor

Abel’s Lobster
13 Abels Ln., Mount Desert | 207.276.8221
abelslobstermdi.com
@abelslobstermdi

Locally Sauced
30 Forest Falls Dr., Yarmouth | 207.847.3035
locallysaucedme.com
@locallysaucedme

DINING WITH A VIEW

WINNER
Scales
Elevated New England fish house fare served in an expansive dining room with a view of the waterfront.

What is your most ordered item?
Pan seared scallops with fresh corn, house made bacon, and sweet peppers.

68 Commercial St., Portland | 207.805.0444
scalesrestaurant.com
@scalesrestaurantportland

FINALISTS

Aragosta at Goose Cove
Goose Cove Rd., Deer Isle | 207.348.6900
aragostamaine.com
@aragosta.maine

Abel’s Lobster
13 Abels Ln., Mount Desert | 207.276.8221
abelslobstermdi.com
@abelslobstermdi

Peter Trout’s Tavern and Inn
48 Shore Road, Southwest Harbor | 207.244.8619
petertrouts.com
@petertrouts

Lakewood Inn Restaurant
76 Theater Rd., Madison | 207.858.4403
lakewoodtheater.org
@lakewood_inn_restaurant

VEGETARIAN OR VEGAN

WINNER
Green Elephant
Influences from Thailand, Malaysia, Japan, and beyond inform the mouthwatering menu of fresh stir-fries, noodle dishes, curries, and some of the best Brussels sprouts you’ll ever eat.

When is your busiest day of the week?
Friday evenings have been our busiest as of late. Being located directly across the street from the State Theatre, any night of the week can be quite busy depending on when there’s a show.

608 Congress St., Portland | 207.347.3111
greenelephantmaine.com
@greenelephantme

FINALISTS

Chase’s Daily
96 Main St., Belfast | 207.338.0555
chasesdaily.me
@chasesdaily

Newcastle Publick House
52 Main St., Newcastle | 207.563.3434
newcastlepublickhouse.com
@newcastlepublick

Lovebirds Donuts
450 US-1, Kittery | 207.703.2392
lovebirdsdonuts.com
@lovebirdsdonuts

S+P Plant Based Cooking
72 Parris St., Portland | 207.558.2580
sp-foods.com
@sandpplantbasedcooking

RAWBAR

WINNER
Eventide Oyster Co.
A staggering array of fresh oysters is only the beginning at Portland’s prime seafood destination, which serves up traditional and modern fare as you have never experienced it before.

What is the most unusual item on your menu?
Our scallop waffle, which is only offered on our late night menu (Sunday–Thursday, 9–11 pm).

86 Middle St., Portland | 207.774.8538
eventideoysterco.com
@eventideoysterco

FINALISTS

Shuck Station Raw Bar
68 Main St., Newcastle | 207.682.0129
@shuckstation

J’s Oyster
5 Portland Pier, Portland | 207.772.4828
jsoysterportland.com
@js_oyster

SoPo Seafood
171 Ocean St., South Portland | 877.282.7676
soposeafood.com
@soposeafood

The Shop by Island Creek Oysters
123 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.699.4466
portland.islandcreekoysters.com
@portlandoystershop

SANDWICH SHOP

WINNER
Big G’s Deli
New York City deli meets Maine homemade food and prices with impossibly large sandwiches and whoopie pies.

581 Benton Ave., Winslow | 207.873.7808
big-g-s-deli.com

FINALISTS

S. Fernald’s Country Store
50 Main St., Damariscotta | 207.563.8484
sfernalds.com
@sfernalds

Ramona’s
98 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.956.7194
ramonas.me
@ramonas_maine

Metcalf’s Submarine Sandwiches
49 Main St., Damariscotta | 207.563.7827
metcalfsub.com
@metcalfs_submarine_sandwiches

Other Side Delicatessen
164 Veranda St., Portland | 207.761.9650
othersidedeli.com
@othersidedeli

SPORTS BAR

WINNER
The Penalty Box Sports Pub
Family-friendly sports bar with pizza and live music.

436 Main St., Damariscotta | 207.563.1563
thepenaltyboxmaine.com

FINALISTS

Rivalries, Portland
10 Cotton St., Portland | 207.774.6044
rivalriesmaine.com
@rivalriesportland

The Pointe Afta
252 China Rd., Winslow | 207.872.0521

Gipper’s Sports Grill
120 Center St., Auburn | 207.786.0715
gippers.com

Legends Rest Taproom
855 Main St., Westbrook | 207.591.0283
legendsrest.com
@legends_rest

WINE LIST

WINNER
Salt and Steel
Elevated coastal Maine cuisine with ingredients sourced from local farms, foragers, and fisherwomen and men—and a notably unique wine list.

When is your busiest day of the week?
We’re open seasonally, mid-May through late October, and surprisingly our busiest day of the week is Tuesday.

321 Main St., Bar Harbor | 207.288.0447
saltandsteelbh.com
@saltandsteelbh

FINALISTS

Wolfpeach
50 Elm St., Camden | 207.230.8315
wolfpeachmaine.com
@wolfpeachmaine

Leeward
85 Free St., Portland | 207.808.8623
leewardmaine.com
@leewardmaine

Lorne Wine
61 Main St. 1st Floor, Biddeford | 207.494.8038
lornewine.com
@lornewine

Wayside Tavern
747 Congress St., Portland | 207.613.9568
waysidetavernmaine.com
@waysidetavern

HAPPY HOUR

WINNER
Blyth and Burrows
A nautically-themed, upscale bar in the Old Port serving craft cocktails, small plates, and oysters.

What is the most unusual item on your menu?
The Tom Yum Milk Punch. It’s phenomenal.

26 Exchange St., Portland | 207.466.2920
blythandburrows.com
@blythandburrows

FINALISTS

Silver Street Tavern and Restaurant
2 Silver St., Waterville | 207.680.2163
silverstreettavern.com
@silverstreettavern

Front and Main
9 Main St., Waterville | 207.660.0130
frontandmainwaterville.com
@frontandmainwaterville

Rio’s Spiked Cafe
357 West Main St., Searsport | 207.548.4016
riosspikedcafe.com
@riosspikedcafe

Meridians
166 Main St., Fairfield | 207.742.0036
meridians.me
@meridians_the.restaurant

BRUNCH

WINNER
Hot Suppa
At the top of everyone’s list for Portland brunch, comfort food with a Southern accent includes shrimp and grits, catfish tacos, and fried chicken and waffles.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
It’s not the most unusual, but it’s the most cherished: stone ground heirloom grits from Marsh Hen Mill on Edisto Island in South Carolina. We have them directly shipped from the farm.

703 Congress St., Portland | 207.871.5005
hotsuppa.com
@hotsuppamaine

FINALISTS

Provender Kitchen and Bar
112 Main St., Ellsworth | 207.610.1480
eatprovender.com
@provenderkitchen

Bayside American Cafe
98 Portland St., Portland | 207.774.0005
baysideamericancafe.com
@baysideamericancafe

Rio’s Spiked Cafe
357 West Main St., Searsport | 207.548.4016
riosspikedcafe.com
@riosspikedcafe

Lakewood Inn Restaurant
76 Theater Rd., Madison | 207.858.4403
lakewoodtheater.org
@lakewood_inn_restaurant

ITALIAN RESTAURANT

WINNER
Delvino’s Grill and Pasta House
Classic Italian dishes served in a charming, spruced-up former hardware store with homemade pastas as well as grilled selections.

52 Main St., Belfast | 207.338.4565
delvinos.com
@delvinosgrill

FINALISTS

Amici’s Cucina
137 Main St., Waterville | 207.861.4440
amiciscucina.com

Via Vecchia
10 Dana St., Portland | 207.407.7070
vvoldport.com
@vvoldport

Solo Italiano
100 Commercial St., Portland | 207.780.0227
soloitalianorestaurant.com

Leeward
85 Free St., Portland | 207.808.8623
leewardmaine.com
@leewardmaine

FRENCH RESTAURANT

WINNER
Petite Jacqueline
Classic French comfort food using farm-fresh ingredients served in a bustling bistro in the Old Port.

What is your most ordered cocktail?
It’s a tie between the French 75 and the Sucre Fume.

46 Market St., Portland | 207.553.7044
bistropj.com
@bistropj

FINALISTS

Chaval
58 Pine St., Portland | 207.772.1110
chavalmaine.com
@chavalmaine

Chez Rosa
Cross St., Kennebunkport | 207.204.0183
chezrosabistro.com
@chezrosabistro

LATIN AMERICAN RESTAURANT

WINNER
Havana
Upscale Bar Harbor staple featuring creative American cuisine inspired by Latin flavors and one of the most extensive wine lists in Maine.

What is your most ordered item?
The paella and the lobster Moqueca.

318 Main St., Bar Harbor | 207.288.2822
havanamaine.com
@havanamaine

FINALISTS

Tu Casa
70 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.828.4971

Cafe Louis
173 Ocean St., South Portland | 207.536.0169
cafelouis.me
@_cafelouis

Quiero Cafe
8 Pepperell Square, Saco | 207.494.7267
3 Deering Ave., Portland | 207.536.7033
quierocafemaine.com
@quierocafemaine

Pacifico
120 Main St., Suite 254, Saco | 207.494.2776
pacificomaine.com
@pacificomaine

CHINESE RESTAURANT

WINNER
Empire Chinese Kitchen
Empire raises the bar in Portland for Chinese food, with garlic green beans, duck fried rice, lobster longevity noodles, and a nice selection of dim sum.

575 Congress St., Portland | 207.747.5063
portlandempire.com

FINALISTS

Ming Lee Chinese Restaurant
365 Main St., Waterville | 207.873.2828
mingleerestaurant.com

Sichuan Kitchen
612 Congress St., Portland | 207.536.7226
sichuankitchenportland.com
@sichuankitchenportland

Wei-Li
945 Center St., Auburn | 207.344.0022
weilihealthy.com

Jing Yan
90 Congress St., Portland | 207.835.0010
jingyanrestaurant.com
@jingyan_portland

JAPANESE RESTAURANT

WINNER
Suzuki’s Sushi Bar
With fish sourced from the Gulf of Maine, the omakase (chef ’s menu) receives regular overtures from locals and visitors alike.

419 Main St., Rockland | 207.596.7447
suzukisushi.com
@suzuki_sushi

FINALISTS

Pai Men Miyake
188 State St., Portland | 207.541.9204
miyakerestaurants.com/paimen
@paimen_miyake

Mami
339 Fore St., Portland | 207.536.4702
mamiportland.com
@mamiportland

Izakaya Minato
54 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.613.9939
izakayaminato.com
@izakayaminato

Yosaku
1 Danforth St., Portland | 207.780.0880
yosakumaine.com
@yosakumaine

THAI RESTAURANT

WINNER
Long Grain
Traditional Asian street food that’s greatly enhanced when created with fresh Maine ingredients.

What is your most ordered item?
The coconut-lemongrass mussels.

20 Washington St., Camden | 207.236.9001
longgraincamden.com
@long_grain_camden

FINALISTS

Boda
671 Congress St., Portland | 207.347.7557
bodamaine.com
@bodamaine

Best Thai
88 Main St., Damariscotta | 207.563.1440
23 Elm St., Bath | 207.443.8655
bestthaimaine.com

Pad Thai Too
400 Kennedy Memorial Dr., Waterville | 207.859.8900
padthaitoo.me

Asian Cafe
53 Bay St., Winslow | 207.877.6688
asiancafeme.com

VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT

WINNER
Lemongrass
Authentic Vietnamese cooking using the owners’ family recipes, and just a stone’s throw from Bowdoin College.

What is your most ordered item?
Pho and Lemongrass Coconut Peanut Delight.

212 E Maine St., Brunswick | 207.725.9008
lemongrassme.com
@lemongrassmaine

FINALISTS

Công Tử Bột
57 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.221.8022
congtubot.com
@cong.tu.bot

Banh Appetit
171 Cumberland Ave., Portland | 207.613.9399
banhappetitme.com
@banh.appetit

Thanh Thanh 2
782 Forest Ave., Portland | 207.828.1114
thanhthanh2maine.com

Que Huong
49 Main St., Biddeford | 207.571.8050
quehuongmaine.com

INDIAN RESTAURANT

WINNER
The Jewel of India
Traditional, spiced-to-order Indian fare in a casual eatery with vegetarian options.

26 Alfred St., Biddeford | 207.283.0077
104 Main St., Waterville | 207.872.0331
thejewelofindia.net

FINALISTS

Taj
200 Gorham Rd., South Portland | 207.828.6677
tajofmaine.com

Bombay Mahal
99 Maine St., Brunswick | 207.729.5260
bombaymahal.com
@bombaymahal

Serendib
2 State St., Ellsworth | 207.664.1030
serendibellsworth.com

Shere Punjab
46 Maine St., Brunswick | 207.373.0422
sherepunjabme.com

MEDITERRANEAN OR GREEK RESTAURANT

WINNER
OPA
Farm-to-table Mediterranean cuisine with craft beer and an inspired mixologist.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
Our unique Mediterranean spices that we use to put a flair on traditional American cuisine!

139 Main St., Waterville | 207.859.3103
opawaterville.com
@opa_restaurant_waterville

FINALISTS

Evo Kitchen + Bar
443 Fore St., Portland | 207.358.7830
evoportland.com
@evooldport

Enoteca Athena
97 Maine St., Brunswick | 207.721.0100
enotecaathena.com
@enotecaathena

Manny’s Greek Grill
248 State St., Ellsworth | 207.412.0981

Taverna Khione
25 Mill Rd., Brunswick | 207.406.2847
tavernakhione.com
@tavernakhione

MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT

WINNER
Baharat
The brick-and-mortar version of the beloved CN Shawarma food truck serving favorites like fried potatoes with garlic sauce and coconut shrimp kabobs.

What is your most ordered cocktail?
Either the El Fusilado with mezcal, yellow chartreuse, campari, passionfruit, black lime, and pineapple bitters or the Japanese Breakfast, a riff on a midori sour made with midori, shochu, green chartreuse, suze, green chile, sage, and pineapple.

91 Anderson St., Portland | 207.613.9849
baharatmaine.com
@baharat_portland

FINALISTS

Falafel Time
1053 Forest Ave., Portland | 207.536.1550
falafeltimeme.com
@falafeltime.me

Nura
78 City Line Drive, Portland | 207.536.0065
nuraportland.com
@nuraportland

Dina’s Cuisine
845R Forest Ave., Portland | 207.956.7211
dinascuisine.com
@dinascuisine2020

Mazzat Restaurant
11 Bishop St., Portland | 207.956.7695
mazzatportland.com

SPANISH RESTAURANT

WINNER
Havana
Upscale Bar Harbor staple featuring creative American cuisine inspired by Latin flavors and one of the most extensive wine lists in Maine.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
They’re not that unusual in Maine, but Fiddleheads never cease to amaze (and baffle those from away). They’re so versatile and delicious.

318 Main St., Bar Harbor | 207.288.2822
havanamaine.com
@havanamaine

FINALISTS

Chaval
58 Pine St., Portland | 207.772.1110
chavalmaine.com
@chavalmaine

Pacifico
120 Main St., Suite 254, Saco | 207.494.2776
pacificomaine.com
@pacificomaine

AFRICAN RESTAURANT

WINNER
Mé Lon Togo
A bistro specializing in West African and European cuisine, with a name that means “I love Togo” in Ewe.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
Avocado pit, which is infused in our famous Cocktail, Apetessi. The pit is dense with nutrients and is traditionally ground and consumed in West Africa.

10 Leland St., Rockland | 207.872.9146
melontogorestaurant.com
@melontogorockland

FINALISTS

Asmara
51 Oak St., Portland | 207.253.5122
asmaramaine.com
@asmaramaine

Red Sea
30 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.805.1488
facebook.com/habrom2

MEXICAN RESTAURANT

WINNER
Buen Apetito
A local favorite since 1999, serving authentic Mexican delicacies and fresh margaritas.

What is your most ordered item?
Our in-house smoked pulled pork. We offer it in a variety of items including burritos, tacos, and tostadas.

4 Chaplin St., Waterville | 207.861.4649
buenapetitomaine.com
@buenapetito22

FINALISTS

Taco Escobarr
548 Congress St., Portland | 207.542.9097
tacoescobarr.com
@taco.escobarr

Taco Trio
60 Ocean St., South Portland | 207.767.9055
taco-trio.com
@tacotriosopo

Locally Sauced
30 Forest Falls Dr., Yarmouth | 207.847.3035
locallysaucedme.com
@locallysaucedme

El Rodeo
238 Bath Rd., Brunswick | 207.373.1700
147 Western Ave., South Portland | 207.773.8851
elrodeome.com

BURGER

WINNER
Newcastle Publick House
A New England-style watering hole with craft beer on tap and a barbecue smoker.

What is your most ordered item?
All our burgers.

52 Main St., Newcastle | 207.563.3434
newcastlepublickhouse.com
@newcastlepublick

FINALISTS

Black Cow
83 Exchange St., Portland | 207.772.7774
blackcowburgers.com
@blackcowburgers

Meridians
166 Main St., Fairfield | 207.742.0036
meridians.me
@meridians_the.restaurant

Provender Kitchen and Bar
112 Main St., Ellsworth | 207.610.1480
eatprovender.com
@provenderkitchen

The Salty Moose
420 Elm St., Biddeford | 207.432.0740
thesaltymoosemaine.com
@thesaltymoosemobilekitchen

BARBECUE

WINNER
Salvage BBQ
A self-service barbecue joint specializing in smoked meats, located in a renovated railroad post office.

What is your most ordered item?
The Meat Coma.

919 Congress St., Portland | 207.553.2100
salvagebbq.com
@salvagebbq

FINALISTS

Terlingua
40 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.956.7573
terlingua.me
@terlinguabbq

Burnt Ends Barbecue
736 Sabattus St., Lewiston | 207.241.0033
burntendslewiston.com

Wilson County Barbecue
82 Hanover St. Suite 8, Portland | 207.956.7788
wilsoncountybarbecue.com
@wilsoncountybarbecue

Locally Sauced
30 Forest Falls Dr., Yarmouth | 207.847.3035
locallysaucedme.com
@locallysaucedme

PIZZA

WINNER
Cushnoc Brewing Co.
Industrial-chic brewery and woodfired pizza staple along the Kennebec in historic downtown Augusta.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
Fiddleheads! We love to use local and seasonal ingredients on our rotating specials. Every spring our Fiddlehead pie features fresh fiddleheads, lemon ricotta, sauteed leeks, and gruyere cheese.

243 Water St., Augusta | 207.213.6332 cushnocbrewing.com
@cushnoc_brewing

FINALISTS

OTTO
15 Cushing St., Brunswick | 207.406.2784
109 Main St., Gorham | 207.222.0400
250 Read St., 225 Congress St., + 576 Congress St., Portland | 207.358.7551, 207.358.7870, + 207.358.7090
779 Portland Rd. US Route 1, Saco | 207.494.8148
125 John Roberts Rd. + 159 Cottage Rd., South Portland | 207.772.0900 + 207.517.3051
350 US Route 1, Yarmouth | 207.846.1325
ottoportland.com
@ottoportland

Oysterhead Pizza Co.
189 Main St., Damariscotta | 207.563.6816
oysterheadpizzaco.com
@oysterheadpizza

Slab Sicilian Street Food
25 Preble St., Portland | 207.245.3088
slabportland.com
@slabportland

Hearth and Harbor
336 Main St., Southwest Harbor | 207.244.8247
hearthandharbor.net
@hearthandharbor

DOUGHNUTS

WINNER
The Holy Donut
A family-run franchise specializing in doughnuts made with Maine potatoes from scratch.

What is your most unusual item?
The Maple Bacon donut or our Bacon Cheddars, but as far as unusual ingredients go, all our donuts are made with Maine potatoes!

177 Commercial St. + 194 Park Ave., Portland | 207.331.5655 + 207.874.7774
398 Route 1, Scarborough | 207.303.0137
theholydonut.com
@holydonutmaine

FINALISTS

Ruckus Donuts
377 Main St., Rockland | 207.975.4388
ruckusdonuts.com
@ruckusdonuts

Eighty 8 Donut Café
5092 Access Rd., Carrabassett Valley
225 Federal St., Portland | 207.653.3071
eighty8donuts.com
@eighty8donuts

Lovebirds Donuts
450 US Route 1, Kittery | 207.703.2392
lovebirdsdonuts.com
@lovebirdsdonuts

Hifi Donuts
30 City Center, Portland | 207.747.5314
hifidonuts.com
@hifidonutsportland

SUSHI

WINNER
Suzuki’s Sushi Bar
With fish sourced from the Gulf of Maine, the omakase (chef ’s menu) receives regular overtures from locals and visitors alike.

419 Main St., Rockland | 207.596.7447
suzukisushi.com
@suzuki_sushi

FINALISTS

Mr. Tuna
28 Monument Sq., Portland | 207.805.1240
mrtunamaine.com
@mr.tuna_maine

Yosaku
1 Danforth St., Portland | 207.780.0880
yosakumaine.com
@yosakumaine

Mirakuya Japanese Restaurant
150 JFK Plaza, Waterville | 207.616.0088
mirakuyawaterville.com
@mirakuyasushi

Benkay Japanese Restaurant and Sushi Bar
16 Middle St., Portland | 207.773.5555
sushiman.com

LOBSTER ROLL

WINNER
The Highroller Lobster Co.
A funky lobster eatery in the Old Port with inventive dishes and incredible merch.

What is your most ordered item?
The lobster roll. We serve fresh claw and knuckle meat on a toasted brioche bun, then top it with our house-made sauces. The most popular sauces would probably be the lobster ghee and/or our lime mayo.

104 Exchange St., Portland | 207.536.1623
highrollerlobster.com
@highrollerlobsterco

FINALISTS

Eventide Oyster Co.
86 Middle St., Portland | 207.774.8538
eventideoysterco.com
@eventideoysterco

Abel’s Lobster
13 Abels Ln., Mount Desert | 207.276.8221
abelslobstermdi.com
@abelslobstermdi

Bite into Maine
Fort Williams Park, Cape Elizabeth
50 Industrial Way, Portland
185 US Route 1, Scarborough | 207.289.6142
biteintomaine.com
@biteintomaine

Butcher Burger

188 Main St., Bethel | 207.824.1171
7 Union St., Portland | 207.808.8522
butcherburger.com
@butcherburgeroldport

FRIED CLAMS

WINNER
Thirsty Whale Tavern
Pub atmosphere popular with locals and tourists alike, known for casual seafood dishes and fine spirits.

40 Cottage St., Bar Harbor | 207.288.9335
thirstywhaletavern.com

FINALISTS

Bob’s Clam Hut
315 US Route 1, Kittery | 207.439.4233
bobsclamhut.com
@bobsclamhut

The Clam Shack
2 Western Ave., Kennebunk | 207.967.3321
theclamshack.net
@theclamshack

Ken’s Place
207 Pine Point Rd., Scarborough | 207.883.6611
facebook.com/KensPlace1927

Chick-A-Dee of Lewiston
1472 Lisbon St., Lewiston | 207.376.3870
chickadeeoflewiston.com
@chickadeeoflewiston

TACOS

WINNER
Taco Escobarr
Authentic Mexican cuisine served in an upbeat, casual atmosphere. Known for creative specialty cocktails.

548 Congress St., Portland | 207.542.9097
tacoescobarr.com
@taco.escobarr

FINALISTS

Taco Trio
60 Ocean St., South Portland | 207.767.9055
taco-trio.com
@tacotriosopo

Hey Sailor
25 East Main St., Searsport | 207.306.9132
heysailorhey.com
@heysailorhey

Locally Sauced
30 Forest Falls Dr., Yarmouth | 207.847.3035
locallysaucedme.com
@locallysaucedme

Ironclad Eats
Portland | 297.200.7265
ironcladeats.com
@ironcladeats

BAGELS

WINNER
Sunrise Bagel
Artisan sourdough bagels fermented for over 50 hours to produce a one-of-a-kind flavor.

What is your most ordered item?
The Kennebec: a bagel, egg, and cheese with your choice of protein!

31 Water St., Waterville | 207.616.0876
sunrisebagelme.com
@sunrisebagelme

FINALISTS

Scratch Baking Co.
416 Preble St., South Portland | 207.799.0668
scratchbakingco.com
@scratchbakingco

Rose Foods
428 Forest Ave., Portland | 207.835.0991
rosefoods.me
@_rose_foods_

Oysterhead Pizza Co.
189 Main St., Damariscotta | 207.563.6816
oysterheadpizzaco.com
@oysterheadpizza

Rover Bagel
10 W. Point Ln., Suite 10-204, Biddeford | 207.710.6248
roverbagel.com
@roverbagel

FRIED CHICKEN

WINNER
The Red Barn
Cooked-to-order fried chicken, seafood, and other homestyle favorites served in a quaint atmosphere.

What is your most unusual item?
Fried pickles.

455 Riverside Dr., Augusta | 207.623.9485
theredbarnmaine.org

FINALISTS

Crispy Gài
90 Exchange St., Portland | 207.536.1017
crispygai.com
@crispygai

Ancho Honey
6 Wallston Rd., St. George | 207.372.2111
anchohoney.com
@anchohoney

Peter Trout’s Tavern and Inn
48 Shore Road, Southwest Harbor | 207.244.8619
petertrouts.com
@petertrouts

The Salty Moose
420 Elm St., Biddeford | 207.432.0740
thesaltymoosemaine.com
@thesaltymoosemobilekitchen

BREWERY

WINNER
Oxbow Brewing Company
Specializing in farmhouse ales and lagers aged over several months or years, a craft brewery notable for its unique, outdoorsy locations.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
We brew a beer called “Saison dell’Aragosta” that is brewed with live Maine lobster.

275 Jones Woods Rd., Newcastle | 207.315.5962
420 Main St., Oxford | 207.539.5178
49 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.350.0025
oxbowbeer.com
@oxbowbrewingcompany

FINALISTS

Cushnoc Brewing Co.
243 Water St., Augusta | 207.213.6332
cushnocbrewing.com
@cushnoc_brewing

Flight Deck Brewing
11 Atlantic Ave, Brunswick | 207.504.5133
flightdeckbrewing.com
@flightdeckbrewingco

Belleflower Brewing Company
66 Cove St., Portland | 207.805.1696
belleflowerbeer.com
@belleflowerbeer

Trinken Brewing Co.
144 State Rd., West Bath | 207.389.6360
trinkenbrewingco.com
@trinkenbrewingco

DISTILLERY

WINNER
Maine Craft Distilling
An East End staple in Portland known for creative spirits and cocktails that pair beautifully with the venue’s frequent live music acts.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
Local seaweed! We use smoked seaweed in our whiskey, Fifty Stone.

123 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.209.0362
mainecraftdistilling.com
@mainecraftdistilling

FINALISTS

Blue Barren Distillery
128 Jones Hill Rd., Hope | 207.542.7741
bluebarren.com
@bluebarrendistillery

Round Turn Distilling
32 Main St., Building 13W, Suite 103, Biddeford | 207.370.9446
roundturndistilling.com
@roundturndistilling

Three of Strong Spirits
35B Diamond St., Portland | 207.899.4930
threeofstrongspirits.com
@threeofstrongspirits

Hardshore Distilling Company
53 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.536.0592
hardshoredistilling.com
@hardshoredistilling

WINERY

WINNER
Cellardoor Winery
Wines made from Maine-grown grapes created in small, handcrafted batches.

What is your most purchased item?
Our best-selling wines are Perdect Stranger, an off-dry white, and Ned Said Red, a medium bodied red.

367 Youngtown Rd., Lincolnville | 207.763.4478
127 Middle St., Portland | 207.536.7700
mainewine.com
@cellardoorwinery

FINALISTS

Oyster River Winegrowers
929 Oyster River Rd., Warren | 207.370.7575
oysterriverwine.com
@oysterriverwinegrowers

Sweetgrass Winery and Distillery
347 Carroll Rd., Union | 207.785.3024
324 Fore St., Portland | 207.761.8446
sweetgrasswinery.com
@sweetgrass_farm_maine

Willows Awake Winery
10 Leeds Junction Rd., Leeds | 207.524.8029
willowsawake.com
@willowsawakewinery

Blue Lobster Urban Winery
219 Anderson St. Suite 1, Portland | 207.956.7051
bluelobsterwines.com
@bluelobsterwines

CIDERY

WINNER
Ricker Hill Mainiac Hard Cider
Hard cider made from apples grown and pressed at the Ricker Hill Orchard, featuring flavors ranging from maple to hopped honey oak.

11 Ricker Hill Rd., Turner | 207.225.6165
rickershardcider.com
@maniaccider

FINALISTS

Après
148 Anderson St., Portland | 207.613.8231
apresmaine.com
@apresdrinks

Freedom’s Edge Cider
420 Quaker Hill Rd., Albion
freedomsedgecider.com
@freedomsedge

Rocky Ground Cider
2566 Kennebec Rd., Newburgh | 207.570.6695
rockygroundcider.com
@rockygroundcider

Absolem Cider Company
799 Winthrop Center Rd., Winthrop | 207.395.2004
absolemcider.com
@absolemcider

FOOD TRUCK

WINNER
The Muthah Truckah
A food truck specializing in unique sandwiches located on the streets of Portland, at various local breweries, and available for events.

What is your busiest day of the week?
Every day is different, and all our locations provide for a varying flow of traffic. However, Fridays tend to be when we’re really jammin’.

Portland | 207.251.2045
themuthatruckah.com
@themuthatruckah

FINALISTS

The Salty Moose
420 Elm St., Biddeford | 207.432.0740
thesaltymoosemaine.com
@thesaltymoosemobilekitchen

Jeff’s Jamaican Cuisine
940 Lisbon St., Lewiston | 207.815.9506
facebook.com/Cuisinejamaica
@jeffsjamaicancuisine

Pinky D’s
1110 Minot Ave., Auburn | 207.809.2030
pinkyds.com
@pinkyds_poutine_factory

Ironclad Eats
Portland | 297.200.7265
ironcladeats.com
@ironcladeats

COFFEE SHOP

WINNER
Coffee By Design
A community-oriented coffee shop serving specialty drinks and locally roasted coffee beans, with a focus on initiatives to support people and the planet.

What is your most unusual item?
Our amaretto cherry and rose cardamom lattes.

95 Main St., Freeport | 207.865.2235
1 Diamond St., 620 Congress St., + 67 India St., Portland | 207.874.5400, 207.772.5533, + 207.780.6767 coffeebydesign.com
@coffeebydesign

FINALISTS

Tandem Coffee and Bakery
742 Congress St., Portland | 207.760.4440
tandemcoffee.com
@tandemcoffeeroasters

Precipice Coffee
56 Deane St., Ellsworth | 207.801.1863
precipicecoffee.com
@precipicecoffee

Speckled Ax
567 Congress St., Portland | 207.660.3333
speckledax.com
@speckledaxcoffee

Bard Coffee
185 Middle St., Portland | 207.899.4788
bardcoffee.com
@bardcoffee

BAKERY

WINNER
Scratch Baking Co.
Neighborhood artisan bakery known for bread, desserts, pastries, and bagels, with a casual, friendly atmosphere.

What is your most ordered item?
Our Maine sea salt bagel.

416 Preble St., South Portland | 207.799.0668
scratchbakingco.com
@scratchbakingco

FINALISTS

The Bankery and Skowhegan Fleuriste
87 + 93 Water St., Skowhegan | 207.474.2253
thebankery.com
@skowheganfleuriste.bankery

Tandem Coffee and Bakery
742 Congress St., Portland | 207.760.4440
tandemcoffee.com
@tandemcoffeeroasters

Norimoto Bakery
469 Stevens Ave., Portland
norimoto-bakery.square.site
@norimotobakery

Belleville
1 North St., Portland | 207.536.7463
blvl.me
@blvlme

BUTCHER SHOP

WINNER
Riverside Butcher Co.
A family run, full-service butcher shop specializing in high-quality hand-cut beef, lamb, pork, and poultry.

What is your most unusual item?
We have many items some people consider “unusual”—pork trotters, organ meats, tongue— but the thing people are most surprised to see is a vegan fig salami! Just because we are a butcher shop doesn’t mean we don’t have offerings for non-meat eaters.

49 Main St., Damariscotta | 207.563.6498
riversidebutcher.com
@riversidebutcher

FINALISTS

Pat’s Meat Market
484 Stevens Ave., Portland | 207.772.3961
patsmeatmart.com
@patsmeatmarket

Emery’s Meat and Produce
35 Bridge St., Gardiner | 207.621.6328
emerysmeatandproduce.com

Bleecker and Greer
310 Commercial St., Rockport | 207.236.6328
mainemeat.com
@bleeckerandgreer

The Butchers and Bakers
149 Maine St., Brunswick | 207.406.4588
thebutchersandbakers.com
@thebutchersandbakers

SEAFOOD MARKET

WINNER
Harbor Fish Market
A picturesque market on the water popular with locals and visitors, sourced by numerous Maine restaurants.

What is your most purchased item?
Maine lobster.

9 Custom House Wharf, Portland | 207.775.0251
246 U.S. Route 1, Scarborough | 207.503.5900
harborfish.com

FINALISTS

Jess’s Market
118 S. Main St., Rockland | 207.596.6068
jessmarket.com

Hallowell Seafood and Produce
197 Water St., Hallowell | 207.621.0500
hallowellseafoodandproduce.com

SoPo Seafood
171 Ocean St., South Portland | 877.282.7676
soposeafood.com
@soposeafood

Pinkham’s Gourmet Market
295 Townsend Ave., Boothbay Harbor | 207.633.6236
pinkhamseafood.com
@pinkhamsgourmetmarket

BEER SHOP

WINNER
Damon’s Beverage
A locally owned and operated beverage market known for having the largest selection of beer, wine, and liquor in the state.

What is your most unusual item?
Our pickle moonshine—you won’t regret it.

75 Bangor St., Augusta | 207.623.9864
700 Hogan Rd., Bangor | 207.262.5500
55 North Ave., Skowhegan | 207.474.2312
52 Front St. + 6 Jefferson St., Waterville 207.707.5505 + 207.873.6228
damonsbeverage.com
@dbmaugusta, @damons_beverage_ bangor, + @dbwaterville

FINALISTS

Bow Street Beverage
495 Forest Ave., Portland | 207.228.2024
bowstreetbeverage.com
@bowstreetbeverage

Meridians: The Shop
151 Main St., Fairfield | 207.238.0254
meridians.me
@meridians_the.shop

RSVP Discount Beverage
887 Forest Ave., Portland | 207.773.8808
rsvpdiscountbeverage.com
@rsvp_discount_beverage

Bier Cellar
593 Main St., Gorham | 207.222.2587
299 Forest Ave., Portland | 207.200.6258
biercellar.com
@biercellarwest + @biercellar

WINE SHOP

WINNER
Meridians: The Shop
A cozy-cool market featuring a wide selection of fine wine, beer, and specialty foods.

What is your most purchased item?
We sell a lot of Italian wine, specifically reds. No matter the season, that’s often what we move the most of. Funnily enough, we also sell a lot of coffee beans from 44 North!

151 Main St., Fairfield | 207.238.0254
meridians.me
@meridians_the.shop

FINALISTS

Vessel and Vine
4 Pleasant St., Brunswick | 207.721.3000
vesselandvine.com
@vesselandvine

Maine and Loire
59 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.805.1336
maineandloire.com
@maineandloire

Lorne Wine
61 Main St., 1st Floor, Biddeford | 207.494.8038
lornewine.com
@lornewine

Grippy Tannins
16 Middle St., Suite 101, Portland | 207.747.4524
grippytannins.com
@grippytanninswine

CHEESE SHOP

WINNER
Eat More Cheese
A coastal market serving fine cheese, wine, and charcuterie from around the world in downtown Belfast.

What is your most unusual item?
Biscotti-like Mt. View Bakery stone cookies, hand-carried directly from Volcano, Hawaii (on the Big Island).

94 Main St., Belfast | 207.218.7009
facebook.com/eatmorecheese
@eatmorecheese

FINALISTS

The Cheese Shop of Portland
107 Washington Ave., Unit 1, Portland | 207.400.5344
thecheeseshopofportland.com
@cheeseshopportland

Crooked Face Creamery
42 Court St., Skowhegan | 207.858.5096
upnorthricotta.com
@crookedfacecreamery

The Cheese Iron
200 US Route 1, ALT #300, Scarborough | 207.883.4057
thecheeseiron.com
@cheesemanmaniaci

Sunflower Farm Creamery
12 Harmon Way, Cumberland | 207.829.8347
sunflowerfarm.info
@sunflowerfarmcreamery

FARMERS’ MARKET

WINNER
Portland Farmers’ Market
A weekly market on Wednesdays and Saturdays featuring vendors selling seasonal fruits and vegetables in addition to specialty Maine-made goods.

What is your most unusual item?
Oysters, hemp, and mushroom kits.

Deering Oaks Park, Portland
portlandmainefarmersmarket.org
@portlandmefarmersmarket

FINALISTS

Belfast Farmers’ Market
256 High St., Belfast
belfastfarmersmarket.org
@belfastfarmersmarket

Brunswick Farmers’ Market
The Mall, the Green, downtown Brunswick
brunswickfarmersmarket.com
@brunswickfarmersmarket

Skowhegan Farmers’ Market
Somerset Grist Mill, Skowhegan
skowheganfarmersmarket.com
@skowheganfarmersmarket

Brunswick Winter Market
10 Maine St., Brunswick
brunswickwintermarket.net
@brunswickwintermarket

CATERER

WINNER
Trillium Caterers
An elevated catering, bartending, and event coordinating experience, focused on sophisticated recipes made with top-quality ingredients.

What is your most ordered item?
Heirloom tomato and burrata salad with pickled shallots and nasturtium.

62 Little River Dr., Belfast | 207.338.5080
trilliumcaterers.com
@trilliumcaterers

FINALISTS

The Black Tie Company
1 Union Wharf, Portland | 207.762.6665
theblacktieco.com
@theblacktiecompany

The Bread and Butter Catering Company
73 Main St., South Portland | 207.808.0573
breadandbuttercompany.com
@breadandbutterco

Bar Harbor Catering Company
367 State Highway 3, Bar Harbor | 207.801.9382
bhcaterco.com
@bhcaterco

S+P Plant Based Cooking
72 Parris St., Portland | 207.558.2580
sp-foods.com
@sandpplantbasedcooking

ICE CREAM + GELATO

WINNER
Gelato Fiasco
Italian-style gelato and sorbet made with local ingredients to produce bold, inventive flavors.

What is your most unusual ingredient?
Mascarpone cheese is one of the most unusual and surprising ingredients, at least among our most popular flavors. Mascarpone Pistachio Caramel Gelato is our second most ordered flavor, and it has our fresh cream base mixed with mascarpone cheese. The mascarpone makes it remarkably rich and creamy.

74 Maine St., Brunswick | 207.607.4262
425 Fore St., Portland | 207.699.4314
gelatofiasco.com
@gelatofiasco

FINALISTS

Fielder’s Choice
680 Minot Ave., Auburn | 207.786.4403 339
Odin Rd., Bangor | 207.922.2836 271
Bath Rd., Brunswick | 207.406.4955
937 Western Ave., Manchester | 207.622.4401
156 Saco Ave., Old Orchard Beach | 207.934.4402
637 Sabattus Rd. Sabattus| 207.375.4400
fielderschoiceicecream.com
@fielderschoiceicecream

Red’s Dairy Freeze
167 Cottage Rd., South Portland | 207.799.7506
redsdairyfreeze.com
@redsdairyfreeze

The Parlor Ice Cream Co.
Biddeford
theparloricecreamco.com
@parloricecreamco

Sticky Sweet
119 Cumberland Ave., Portland
stickysweetmaine.com
@stickysweetmaine

CANDY STORE

WINNER
Granite Hall Store
A historic, coastal gift shop offering ice cream and penny candy in an old-timey setting.

What is your most unusual item?
Licorice chalk (wax bottles and satellite wafers are also strange but popular candies!).

9 Back Shore Rd., Round Pond | 207.529.5864
granitehallstore.com
@granitehallstore

FINALISTS

Old Port Candy Co.
422 Fore St., Portland | 207.772.0600
oldportcandyco.com
@oldportcandy

The Chocolate Shoppe at Merkaba Sol
223 Water St., Augusta | 207.922.9916
merkabasol.com
@merkaba_sol

Haven’s Candies
87 County Rd., Westbrook | 207.772.1557
havenscandies.com
@havenscandies

Candy Hollow
856 Kennedy Memorial Dr., Oakland | 207.716.1561
facebook.com/candyhollowshoppe

The post The Inaugural Maine Food + Drink Reader’s Choice Awards appeared first on The Maine Mag.

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Maine’s Most Popular New Restaurant is a Locavore’s Delight https://www.themainemag.com/maines-most-popular-new-restaurant-is-a-locavores-delight/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 15:38:25 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63570 I’m sitting at the six-seat bar in the 190-year-old building that now houses Wolfpeach, a new fine-dining restaurant in downtown Camden. My back is to the historic brick hearth that doubles as makeshift wine storage, and I’m enjoying a few

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Wolfpeach in Camden serves fine-dining New England fare made with (nearly all) local ingredients.

I’m sitting at the six-seat bar in the 190-year-old building that now houses Wolfpeach, a new fine-dining restaurant in downtown Camden. My back is to the historic brick hearth that doubles as makeshift wine storage, and I’m enjoying a few deviled eggs and an intriguing terrine made from eel and pork. I finish the last of a flight of four house-made soft drinks— kombucha and kefir flavored with various tree saps and herbs—then turn to the cocktail list for my next drink. As I decide on a gin and tonic made with Blue Barren Distillery gin brewed in nearby Hope, a casual remark from owner Gabriela Acero makes me completely reevaluate the experience of my meal up until that point.

As she prepares my drink, Acero tells me that she doesn’t use lime as a garnish: would I like a pickled carrot instead? That’s when I realize that nearly all the food and drink served at Wolfpeach is grown or made in Maine. That seems easy enough to accomplish with dishes like smoked herring and crispy potatoes, but the owners’ goal also extends to less visible but crucial ingredients, like sunflower oil and apple cider vinegar. I take another look at the beverage list and see that the wine selection is exclusively from New England and Canada, while Maine beer and spirits fill out the beverage offerings. And, naturally, that means there are no lime wedges.

Wolfpeach, which takes its name from the Latin word for tomato, opened in December 2021 after Acero, who grew up in Waterville, and her partner, Derek Richard, bought the building once occupied by the Drouthy Bear, a Scottish pub. The two had met when they helped to open Oxbow Beer Garden in Oxford, where Richard developed the sourdough pizza recipe and Acero was the general manager. Richard, who is originally from New Jersey, worked in the kitchens of Blue Hill at Stone Barns and then at Barley Swine, a fine-dining hyper-local restaurant in Austin, Texas, before moving to Maine. At Wolfpeach Acero and Richard use locally grown and foraged ingredients to create what Richard describes as “just really good, simple food.” He pauses before he adds, “Well, seemingly simple.”

The menu’s short descriptions belie complex flavors that Richard and his crew create through days and even months of effort. A robust fermentation program produces flavor-packed ingredients, like the vinegars that replace the acidic element typically provided by lemon juice, and a fish sauce called garum that is made from various seafoods and salt. Between the kimchi, garum, miso, and vinegars, Wolfpeach’s kitchen is full of bubbling containers of fermented condiments to amplify each dish. “All our ferments are funneled into the sauces, just helping with flavor,” Richard says.

All that behind-the-scenes effort is apparent in my entree, a smoked pork loin. Its preparation started a week prior, when Richard dry-aged the pasture-raised pork, then rubbed the meat with a fermented tomato powder before it went in the wood smoker. Before dinner service, Richard warmed the meat in a bath of liquid smoked pork fat, a trick he says he learned during his time in Texas, and then seared the chop to order. The thick slice of bone-in pork arrives, perfectly tender with a blackened, crispy edge, in a dark puddle of jus, the result of a multiday process of reducing pork stock and a bottle of red wine from Cellardoor Winery into a rich, sticky sauce.

Dishes are served à la carte at Wolfpeach. A side of tender, charred collard florets complements the smokiness of the pork loin. The slight bitterness of the greens is offset by a silky house-made aioli that delivers a salty kick from the addition of a few raw oysters that were blended in. Richard says his goal is for the menu items to complement each other—and ideally be enjoyed with a side of his signature sourdough bread. He uses Maine Grains whole wheat flour, which results in loaves with a tender interior and a nutty, hearty crust. The butter, also made in-house, is mixed with locally grown kelp and then fermented for a few days, making it salty and slightly tangy.

Richard has a deft hand with pasta dough: he is filling thin sheets with spinach and a tangy cow’s- and goat’s-milk cheese. He flavors the mixture with a maitake mushroom miso and then serves the stuffed pasta in a browned butter sauce. He tells me he felt the dish needed to be finished with Parmesan cheese, so he bends his rules to include the Italian import. Of the exception, Acero says, “We’re not trying to make any aggressively hard-and-fast rules. At the end of the day, if we think the food needs something, we will use it.”

As I enjoy my dessert—a scoop of honey-thyme ice cream made by a local farmer—I’m left thinking that so often the discussion of a meal made exclusively with Maine foods focuses on its limitations—no lemon, no olive oil, no French wine. It’s a testament to Richard’s skill in the kitchen and Acero’s natural hospitality that you can be halfway through the meal at Wolfpeach before it occurs to you that anything might be missing.

Wolfpeach

50 Elm St., Camden
207.230.8315
wolfpeachmaine.com

Fine-dining New England fare made with (nearly all) local ingredients served in a renovated historic home. Beverage list includes New England and Canadian wines, Maine beers, and cocktails with Maine-made spirits.

Small plates $9–$22
Entrees $29–$42
Desserts $10–$14

No Tips, Please
Wolfpeach operates on a no-tipping model. Servers are paid $20 an hour, with the goal of everyone reaching $25–$35 an hour. Although the idea is not without its detractors, Acero says customers are receptive to it despite the higher prices. She’s quick to say that she knows the model doesn’t work for many small businesses: due to several factors Wolfpeach has “a deep freedom to do things the way we want.” (Although the prices initially seem higher, the total cost of the meal ends up comparable to that of a tipped fine-dining restaurant.)

Hours
Dinner: Friday–Monday, 5 p.m.–9 p.m.

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If You Haven’t Tried Cafe Louis in Knightville, It’s Time https://www.themainemag.com/if-you-havent-tried-cafe-louis-in-knightsville-its-time/ Tue, 05 Jul 2022 16:03:30 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63332 Chef Evan Richardson has strong opinions about mustard—specifically, the mustard sauce used on the pressed pork sandwich known as a Cuban or a medianoche. He insists there shouldn’t be just mustard on the sandwich, but a sauce made from the

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Dishes of pinto gallo, ron don stew, and
tostones are some of the resturant’s classic Central American offerings.

Chef Evan Richardson has strong opinions about mustard—specifically, the mustard sauce used on the pressed pork sandwich known as a Cuban or a medianoche. He insists there shouldn’t be just mustard on the sandwich, but a sauce made from the drippings from roasted pork mixed with mustard. “I’ll never win that argument. It’s just one I’m willing to have,” he says with a laugh as we sit in the sunny dining room of his South Portland restaurant, Cafe Louis.

When I try Cafe Louis’s medianoche, I am struck by the difference made by the mustard sauce (or “salsa Louis,” as Richardson calls his version). Where mustard alone is usually sharp and overpowering, the addition of the drippings makes his sauce mellow and creamy. The heavily griddled pan suave bread is sweet and dense with crispy, browned bits of Swiss cheese. Inside, salty Virginia ham, roast pork, and briny pickles mingle together for a rich and satisfying lunch.

Cafe Louis’s menu is inspired by the food Richardson grew up eating while visiting his paternal grandparents outside of the Costa Rican capital of San José. He remembers eating the “tipico food”—traditional Costa Rican dishes—his grand-mother made. One of these is casado, a hearty plate of black beans, rice, cabbage, fried plantains, eggs, and homemade tortillas that now appears on Cafe Louis’s brunch menu. “I’m just cooking food that I used to eat as a kid,” Richardson tells me.

Richardson first made a name for himself in Portland with his Creole cooking at Eaux—classics like gumbo, po’boys, and jambalaya. The native New Orleanian opened Eaux in 2017, first as a food cart and then, a year later, as a 40-seat restaurant on Portland’s Exchange Street. At Eaux, which closed in November 2020, Richardson served French-inspired Creole food as a “sit-down, proper dinner [with] white plates,” he says. But at Cafe Louis, he’s exploring his family’s Central American heritage with a lively, fun vibe. “At Louis, you can come as you are at any given time and pop in for a burger. It’s a neighborhood spot,” Richardson says.

The casual atmosphere at Cafe Louis invites diners to linger over bocas, small snacks that are served at bars in Costa Rica. Patacones, or fried plantains, deliver a crispy, salty crunch that yields to a tender interior. The gallo pinto—black beans and rice—is packed with flavor from a base of aromatic vegetables called sofrito, spices, and a drizzle of Salsa Lizano, a flavorful bottled Costa Rican condiment that’s similar to Worcestershire sauce. Slices of queso para freir—a soft cow’s milk cheese—are grilled until brown and crispy, then finished with honey and chopped macadamia nuts.

I enjoy dinner at Cafe Louis’s seven-seat bar with helpful recommendations from our server Peter Murphy, who also operates the food cart Rebel Cheesesteak. We exchange banter under the gaze of a large toucan featured in a mural on the far wall of the restaurant. The cafe is small, roughly 700 square feet, but despite its size, it has seating for about 35.

Costa Rican food has a reputation for being a bit bland. But Richardson’s skillful cooking amplifies the signature flavors of the cuisine, particularly evident in his take on ron don, a Jamaican fish stew popular on the East Coast of Costa Rica. Plump Bangs Island mussels are nestled into a sweet, slightly spicy green curry of coconut milk broth thickened with cassava. Slim slices of corn on the cob, sweet potato, and crab meat crowd the bowl. When it arrives, I initially focus on the mussels, thinking they are the star of the show as usual in steamed mussel dishes, but then I realize the flavor-packed dish is more reminiscent of a New England chowder, so I eat the broth with a spoon.

Richardson upgrades another relatively simple Central American staple in his marmahon. In this Lebanese dish, which migrated to Honduras with Arab immigrants, he stirs Israeli couscous while it cooks, making it decadent and creamy like risotto. Several preparations of mushrooms—pickled, fried, and powdered—are added, and it’s finished with a shower of nutty, aged Manchego and a spiced, bright red achiote oil to make for a hearty vegetarian entree.

Despite the focus on Central American food, Richardson is quick to say Cafe Louis is not “handcuffed” to one region’s fare. Richardson and chef de cuisine Khristian Martinez use seasonal, local ingredients in their rotating vegetable dishes and salads, like charred bok choy with fermented kohlrabi and an empanada filled with fiddleheads and cheddar. “We do our best to use seasonal ingredients,” Richardson says. “We’re not going to not use fiddleheads, but if I showed them to my grandmother, she’d have no idea what to do with them.” While she may not recognize all the ingredients, his grandmother would surely be proud of how well Richardson is representing the cuisine of Costa Rica in Maine.

CAFE LOUIS

173 Ocean St., South Portland
207.536.0169
cafelouis.me

A casual cafe serving Central American cuisine in a lively atmosphere. Maine beers, natural wines, and a small list of tropical cocktails are available.

Small plates $5–$13
Entrees $15–$25
Desserts $10–$12

SoPo Restaurant Row
Cafe Louis joins a flourishing neighborhood of South Port-land in a strip of new businesses on Ocean Street. The closure of longtime favorites RJ’s Pub and Uncle Andy’s Diner made room for Cafe Louis along with Judy Gibson (helmed by Eventide alum Chris Gibson) and SoPo Seafood, a raw bar-cum-fish market. With Taco Trio and Foul-mouthed Brewing nearby, this South Portland neighborhood provides several enticing alternatives to dining on the busier Portland peninsula.

Hours
Brunch: Thursday–Monday, 10 a.m.–3 p.m.
Dinner: Thursday–Monday, 5 p.m.–10 p.m.

Read More:

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Smalls is Portland’s Hippest New All-Day Cafe https://www.themainemag.com/smalls-is-portlands-hippest-new-all-day-cafe/ Fri, 10 Jun 2022 13:28:53 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=62945 This first time I stop in at Smalls, a new cafe in Portland’s West End, it’s for a breakfast sandwich. A friend told me it is in the running for the best in the city, so I parked on a

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Smalls offers sandwiches, small plates, and salads, like this Caesar salad with shallot-Parmesan vinaigrette, pebbly nubs
of cheese, and craggy croutons.

This first time I stop in at Smalls, a new cafe in Portland’s West End, it’s for a breakfast sandwich. A friend told me it is in the running for the best in the city, so I parked on a steep hill off Brackett Street and found the entrance to the shop, which is in a rambling gray-shingled building. Inside, a long white counter with a gleaming blue espresso machine runs the length of one wall and provides bar seating for seven. A large mirror with a mod black and white tile surround hangs over the bar and reflects three globe pendant lights.

After I place my order at the counter, I walk through the cafe into the next room to peruse the selection of housewares, beauty products, and pantry items. Shelves display tapered beeswax candles, herbal tinctures promising relaxation, and small, funky ceramic pieces. Yet another room of goodies beckons me up four slightly crooked stairs, where I find tins of cured fish, honey-sweetened jams, spice mixes, and vegan candies. A refrigerator case holds local beers, funky wines, cured meats, cheeses, and pickled items.

The curator behind the eclectic offerings at Smalls is Samantha Knopf, who opened the cafe and market in January with business partner Karl Deuben of East Ender, a restaurant on Middle Street. Knopf lived in New York City for over 20 years and worked at times as a designer, bartender, server, doula, and florist before moving to Maine in February 2020. She says her aim at Smalls is to provide a comfortable space for people to connect with friends over good, affordable food and drink while also showcasing products from small, independent makers.

The early popularity of Smalls indicates it has quickly built a loyal following with Portlanders. The breakfast sandwich does end up being superlative-worthy, with a soft, toasted bun, crispy bacon, and a square of tender steamed eggs. A garlic-herb feta spread delivers a sharp saltiness without overwhelming the mild egg, and a smear of tomato mayonnaise lends sweetness to the whole thing.

The cafe’s kitchen is just a small corner of the space behind the bar. Chef Chelsea Cayer borrows kitchen space from East Ender to prepare many of the makings of the cafe’s 20 menu items. At Smalls, Cayer turns out a selection of sandwiches, salads, and snacks like marinated beets and spiced nuts using just a convection oven and a panini press. When I return to Smalls for dinner, I grab an available barstool next to a couple and a pair of friends. The rest of the seats are full—six more barstools line a counter along the other wall, and a table and bench seating are tucked into the nooks next to the front entrance. Knopf says she loves the small space of the cafe, which seats about 20, and has no plans to expand. The simple counter service model allows one or two staff members to keep an eye on all the customers.

I begin my meal with a Last Word cocktail, a gin-based classic with lime and green chartreuse over crushed ice in a vintage tumbler. My half-portion of the Caesar salad is simple and well done. Knopf tells me she judges a place by its Caesar salad, so if you offer one, it has to be good. Smalls’ version is indeed good, dressed with a shallot-Parmesan vinaigrette and filled with pebbly nubs of cheese and craggy croutons.

A wide ceramic bowl full of fat white cannellini beans warmed in olive oil arrives next. I scoop up the beans with a thick piece of toast from South Portland’s Solo Cucina market. They’re pleasantly salty and contain chunks of oil-poached swordfish and dabs of a bright arugula pesto. I round out my meal with half a ball of burrata and a few slices of salty serrano ham in a pool of housemade red pepper jelly.

My third visit to Smalls is for happy hour with a few friends, and we cozy up on a striped window seat. We share the crispy grilled cheese sweetened with caramelized onions, and chicken liver pâté complemented by a tangy cherry chutney. Afterward we browse the shop, and I weigh purchasing a rose-pistachio spice blend against restocking my chili crisp from Portland’s Little Brother Chinese Food.

Whatever you find yourself in need of, Smalls likely has the answer. Whether it’s a latte in the morning or a flower bouquet and a bottle of wine on your way to a friend’s, this cafe and market can provide. Special enough for date night but casual enough for a laptop session, Smalls successfully navigates the changing landscape of dining as we all reestablish our habits in this new world.

Smalls

28 Brackett St., Portland
smallsisgood.com

An all-day cafe and market featuring sandwiches, salads, and snacky small plates. Beverages include coffee, beers, natural wines, and a short list of cocktails.

Salads $8–$14
Sandwiches $8–$13
Small plates $5–$12
Dessert $6

What’s in a Name?
Smalls’ owner Samantha Knopf envisioned a cafe/gift shop/ market that would be at home in the back of a New York bodega. She says the name refers to “small makers, small products, small space,” and the idea of treating yourself with something every day. The accessible prices of Smalls’ food and drink make daily visits possible.

Hours
Thursday–Tuesday, 8 a.m.–8 p.m.

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A Historic Stockton Springs House Becomes a Destination Restaurant https://www.themainemag.com/a-historic-stockton-springs-house-becomes-a-destination-restaurant/ Wed, 09 Mar 2022 17:53:06 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=62374 Over margaritas at the Hichborn in Stockton Springs, we’re talking about the restaurant’s namesake. A shipbuilder in Maine in the 1860s, Nathan G. Hichborn was a leader in the temperance movement. Owners Kirk P. Linder and Charlie Zorich, who join

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A Historic Stockton Springs House Becomes a Destination Restaurant

The owners of the Hichborn bring locally sourced cooking and a dinner party sensibility to a former shipbuilder’s home in the midcoast.

By Sandy Lang
Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

Issue: March/April 2022

Over margaritas at the Hichborn in Stockton Springs, we’re talking about the restaurant’s namesake. A shipbuilder in Maine in the 1860s, Nathan G. Hichborn was a leader in the temperance movement. Owners Kirk P. Linder and Charlie Zorich, who join the conversation with photographer Peter Frank Edwards and I, get a kick out the historic irony.

These days, in the large nineteenth-century house that Mr. Hichborn built, bottle selections from a deep wine list are popular orders at dinner, along with cocktails concocted by Zorich and beverage director Jon Marsiglia. The house margarita is made with local peppers and pickled blueberries; the Shock and Awe uses gin infused with local celery and tarragon.

Plating up in the Hichborn kitchen, where Zorich builds menus around ingredients from local farms.

Opened in 2018, the Hichborn is on a hilltop street a few minutes off Route 1 in Stockton Springs (population 1,628), a Penobscot Bay–facing town about 30 miles from Camden in one direction and 30 miles from Ellsworth in the other. It doesn’t take long for guests who arrive for dinner to notice that Linder and Zorich have a penchant for witty details. A photo of Andy Warhol is posted in the hallway near the restroom with a quote by the iconic artist: “The idea of waiting for something makes it more exciting.”

The hope is that you’ll keep a light mood even if there’s a wait, Linder explains. (There’s an amusing story, though, about a couple of guests who got too carefree once and tried out the bathroom’s extant clawfoot tub.) Warhol’s sentiment could refer to the food and drink here, too. Reservation slots at the Hichborn are often fully booked, so getting a table can take some forethought. As married business partners, Linder and Zorich have essentially been throwing dinner parties several nights a week in season for about three years, give or take, because of pandemic interruptions. The Hichborn seats 30, and except at the five-stool bar where fritters or other bar snacks may be ordered, it’s a prix fixe menu based around what’s in season, whether farmed, fished, or foraged. Courses include such dishes as short rib from Wee Bit Farm on potatoes, a single icy oyster from Stockton Harbor, or a galette baked with Maine apples.

But first, we’re sipping and taking it in. In a corner of the bar top, which is a gorgeous slab of Maine slate, I notice one of the Hichborn matchboxes; inside, the match strikers are hot pink. An orb-shaped light in a similarly bright pink hue glows near an elegant, spiky palm in the next room of the mid-1800s Italianate manse. The chef brings in a small pyramid of just-made arancini, and I break one open to see peekytoe crab inside. Already, I can’t wait for dinner.

Larri Brought Them

“Larri was that catalyst that pushed us here,” says Zorich, thinking back to the 2017 cross-country drive that he and Linder made in Larri, their 1984 Volkswagen Westfalia van. Larri is painted in the palest powder blue shade. “You aren’t even sure it’s blue until you see it in snow.”

Zorich, the chef, hails from Astoria, Oregon, and previously helmed West Coast kitchens including the Pickled Fish in Long Beach, Washington. Linder is originally from upstate New York, and his professional background is in graphic design and art. The two met through a mutual friend in the restaurant business and discovered shared interests and compatibility during snowboarding trips in Oregon before they decided to drive across the country to refocus their lives. It would be a new adventure together. They came close to buying a property in Kingfield, but the deal fell through, so they kept exploring until they found a fit. In Stockton Springs, it was the abundance of nearby farms and the variety of fresh food that sealed the deal. “Within a few miles, we can source everything,” Zorich says, “from just-harvested oysters a half-mile down the road at the harbor to local-grown ginger from just down the street—and even Maine-grown saffron.”

The couple knew they wanted to buy the Hichborn “by the time we walked into the second parlor,” recalls Linder. Once they purchased the house, the two immediately began renovations to remove lacy curtains and floral wallpaper, install a full commercial kitchen, and create an airy style and warmth in the dining rooms. Building community connections was a priority from the start. They commissioned Belfast artist and woodworker Wes Reddick to craft a long table from beams found in the original hayloft of the attached barn, and they bought New England–made, pewter Danforth lamps. Zorich began working at the Belfast Co-Op, where he quickly met others in the local food community and learned more about local farms and purveyors. And they made a parking spot for Larri inside the attached barn, where they also store their snowboarding gear.

Farmers, including Alex McCaffree of Calyx Farm in Morrill, deliver produce weekly in season to the attached barn of the historic house; from there, the kitchen and dining rooms are steps away.

Bounty at the Barn Door

The Hichborn’s original barn isn’t just for storage. It’s where the restaurant receives deliveries directly from farmers, foragers, and fishermen. On a Thursday in late September, Bo Dennis arrives first with armloads of dahlias, eucalyptus, and ornamental kale from Dandy Ram Farm in Monroe, which Linder takes immediately to a table in the barn to begin cutting and arranging for vases.

Then a parade of farmers and vegetables continues for the next hour or so. Next, it’s Dylan Brown and Laura McLaughlin from Stubborn Ox Farm with a huge sack of brussels sprouts and squash from their farm fields, on about three acres in Brooks.

Alex McCaffree and Catherine Durkin from Calyx Farm in Morrill say they’re growing on about one and a half acres. They bring delicata squash that will be served with Gulf of Maine cod tonight, along with about 15 heads of radicchio, and onions, shishito peppers, and a sweet Italian pepper variety called Jimmy Nardello that’s used at the Hichborn to make a sweet-and-sour relish to dollop onto oysters.

Christa and Mike Bahner deliver carrots, beets, shallots, and garlic from their farm and roadside stand in Belmont. They first met Zorich when he stopped at the Bahner Farm stand to buy vegetables, and later the Bahners came to eat at the Hichborn. “I could go on for 20 minutes about the eggplant and heirloom tomatoes and the pork chop we had that night,” Christa Bahner says, smiling at the memory.

The Bahners’ beets will be used in a roasted beet salad, Zorich notes. In fact, all of this local and organic produce will be cooked by Zorich and his kitchen team or baked into recipes by pastry chef Lee Dunn. And some will end up as inspiration and ingredients for cocktails developed by Marsiglia at the bar. “It’s such a pleasure having so much shared passion for local-grown and organic produce,” says Zorich, adding that getting to know the farmers and the food they grow has added to a feeling of home here. “All of it contributes to the great quality of life in Maine.”

With the food sources and team established, Linder and Zorich are embarking on a second project this year. They’ve been renovating a couple of storefronts on Route 1 in Searsport, with their sense of wit in full swing. In a preview peek inside the upcoming eatery and bar, I notice a 1970s vibe and round lights that look like underwater bubbles. The new venture, Hey Sailor, is set to open early this year and is just a four-mile drive from the Hichborn.

Beverage director Jon Marsiglia shakes up the next drink.

And Now, We Dine

Finally, it’s dinnertime. We already went home to change, and as we return, Linder greets us and a couple dozen other guests on the porch. He is wearing a burgundy-colored shirt in a paisley design, and affixed above one chest pocket is a kilt pin with a sparkling garnet gemstone. The celebratory tone is set. For the next two and a half hours we taste the oysters and the short ribs, the lovely galette, and a fresh scallop in citrusy crudo style. Other favorite courses of the night are a grilled radicchio and kale salad with silvery boquerones and a bowl of beautifully enveloped lamb dumplings in a steaming broth of ginger and pepper.

After all the sips and forkfuls and conversation, we’re offered an off-the-menu slice of coconut cream pie as a finale. It’s a specialty of the chef’s, we’re told, and we nod yes even though we’re plenty satiated already. What arrives, in the center of a round plate, is the fattest, tallest wedge of whipped cream and crust that I’ve ever seen, encircled by toasted coconut confetti. I hear whoops of laughter when other tables are served slices, too. “It is kind of ridiculous,” Zorich says when he stops by the table to wish us goodnight and sees us scooping up spoonfuls of coconut cream. “But it’s supposed to be fun and lighthearted. I just had no idea that people would love it so much.”

Destination Stockton + Searsport

Focused on local ingredients and designed with a bit of West Coast style and sensibility, the food and drink of Charlie Zorich and Kirk Linder can be found in two locations, just four miles apart on the midcoast.

The Hichborn
10 Church St., Stockton Springs
thehichborn.com

Open seasonally since 2018, the 30-seat Hichborn offers a five-course, prix fixe menu in a historic house.

Hey Sailor
25 E. Main St., Searsport
heysailorhey.com

Opened earlier this year, Hey Sailor is a new bar-restaurant venue centered around casual fare and fun, with “tacos, art, and booze.”

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Wayside Tavern in Portland Serves Dishes to Meet Your Mood https://www.themainemag.com/wayside-tavern-in-portland-serves-dishes-to-meet-your-mood/ Wed, 09 Mar 2022 17:32:03 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=62368 A new type of tavern is open in the West End of Portland. With its deep burgundy leather banquettes, glass-globed sconces that cast a warm glow, and flickering candles perched on stacks of cookbooks, Wayside Tavern sets the mood as

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Owners Siobhán and Mike Sindoni in the dining room of their restaurant, Wayside Tavern.

A new type of tavern is open in the West End of Portland. With its deep burgundy leather banquettes, glass-globed sconces that cast a warm glow, and flickering candles perched on stacks of cookbooks, Wayside Tavern sets the mood as a cozy destination for meeting with friends. The restaurant and bar are located in the Francis, a boutique hotel in a recently renovated 1881 Italianate mansion with natural wood crown mouldings, hardwood floors, and a brick fireplace.

The food at Wayside Tavern manages to be both comforting and exciting at the same time. Owners Siobhán and Michael Sindoni pull from their travels in Italy and Michael’s classic culinary training to create a menu with hints of intrigue. Michael rolls foie gras in crushed maple-candied almonds to create truffles that then sit in a pool of hot pepper jelly. Roasted half-moons of delicata squash come garnished with tangy Gorgonzola cheese and drizzled with spicy honey, while bitter chicory greens get the Caesar salad treatment, tossed with a creamy anchovy-laden dressing and crunchy bread crumbs.

Those looking for more traditional tavern fare will find items like fried cod bites, crispy-skinned roast chicken, and a satisfyingly peppery steak au poivre. Mondays bring a ten-dollar smashed patty burger on a potato roll. “The use of the word ‘tavern’ was very deliberate,” says Michael, who is the chef. “You can come in and get a burger or beer-battered fish if that’s what you’re going for.”

Michael is very familiar with the experience of sitting at the marble-topped bar that flanks one wall of the three small dining rooms: he regularly enjoyed meals at Flood’s, the restaurant that Palace Diner owner Greg Mitchell ran in the space until August 2020. Siobhán and Michael live down the street, and both loved the neighborhood feel of Flood’s. The closure of Mitchell’s restaurant presented the couple with the serendipitous opportunity to realize their own dreams of owning a restaurant. Conscious that three restaurants have occupied the space in the past four years, Siobhán says, “We want to be here for years to come.”

Many West End residents seem to concur, as Wayside Tavern attracts regulars drawn to the Italian influences that appear throughout the menu. The eggplant terrine has become a fixture at the insistence of customers, even when it is out of season. Chef de cuisine Matt Jatczak, who runs the daily operations of the restaurant, prepares the dish Sicilian-style, which means forgoing the heavy breading. Instead, he coats the eggplant only in egg before frying it, then layers it into a mold with garlic and chile-spiked ricotta. The terrine is then sliced and topped with tomato sauce and melted mozzarella cheese, resulting in an elevated version of a homey eggplant parmesan.

Wayside serves a number of small plates with Italian and New England influences, accompanied by classic cocktails and wines largely of European origin.

Michael hand makes pasta, mozzarella, and bread using techniques he honed during several stints cooking in Italy. He tosses strands of fettuccini with a tomato sauce blended with ’nduja, a spicy Italian sausage. Toasted sourdough bread is dunked in chicken broth until it softens, thickly spread with ricotta cheese, and topped with slices of crispy-skinned chicken thighs. Pine nuts and wine-plumped golden raisins deliver contrasting texture and acidity. These simple yet elegant dishes show off the chef’s ability to deliver unexpected twists using familiar ingredients.

Siobhán oversees the wine and bar program, using her experience as a certified sommelier to curate a list of primarily Italian and French wines. She gravitates toward wine “that has a sense of place, that’s not cookie-cutter.” She tells me the most popular wine served by the glass last summer was an orange wine made from white grapes that were fermented with the skins, resulting in an amber color and bolder flavor. As for how her atypical wine selections are received, Siobhán says, “People here are really open. It’s been pretty incredible.”

Maine oysters broiled with garlic-chile butter make a great start to any meal.

The cocktail selection hews closer to the traditional, with just six classics listed. A gin martini, grapefruit daquiri, and rye Manhattan all receive small tweaks—an offbeat vermouth here, a housemade cordial there. After dinner, a long list of amari—Italian liqueurs—offer a sweet, herbaceous nightcap. The Irish-ish Coffee, a blend of coffee, crème de cacao, and a housemade walnut liqueur called nocino topped with a thick cap of pistachio cream, nicely balances the sweetness of a tiramisu or apple butternut squash cake.

Siobhán says it can be challenging for a restaurant to be seen as a place to enjoy a burger at the bar as well as a four-course meal with nice wine. But Wayside Tavern manages to pull off both. On a recent visit, my friends and I shared several of the dozen or so small plates, from garlic-chile butter broiled oysters to a creamy salt cod and olive tapenade dip. Then I dug in to a grass-fed steak accompanied by a glass of Mendocino red from Siobhán’s thoughtful wine list. Whatever route you take, Wayside Tavern provides a pleasant path to get there.

Wayside Tavern

747 Congress St., Portland
207.613.9568
waysidetavernmaine.com

A casual but intimate environment serving small plates with Italian and New England influences. The bar program has a strong focus on European wines.

Small plates $4–$12
Entrees $19–$35
Dessert $11–$12

ON A ROLL
After living in Dallas, Texas, for seven years, Siobhán and Michael Sindoni made the move to Portland in 2019 after hearing from friends how incredible Maine life is. With “plenty of time for R and D” during the pandemic, Michael opened Roll Call, a food cart serving roast beef, porchetta, and turkey sandwiches. The cart was a hit with the busy staff at Maine Medical Center, where many food trucks gather during the lunch hour. Michael’s younger brother, Nick, manages the cart’s day-to-day operations and is currently searching for a brick-and-mortar home for the business.

HOURS
Dinner: Monday + Thursday, 4 p.m.–9 p.m.
Friday + Saturday, 4 p.m.–10 p.m.
Sunday, 3 p.m.–9 p.m.

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Flux Brings Creative From-Scratch Cooking to Lisbon Falls https://www.themainemag.com/flux-brings-creative-from-scratch-cooking-to-lisbon-falls/ Thu, 06 Jan 2022 13:03:09 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=61585 The town of Lisbon has seen a lot of changes in the past half-decade. The defunct Worumbo Mill that anchored the town at its southern end was demolished in 2016, and a medical cannabis shop recently popped up on the

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Chef Jason LaVerdiere gets creative with nightly specials like a pan-roasted ivory king salmon over Chinese sausage and mushroom fried rice.

The town of Lisbon has seen a lot of changes in the past half-decade. The defunct Worumbo Mill that anchored the town at its southern end was demolished in 2016, and a medical cannabis shop recently popped up on the site. The Moxie Museum, an homage to Maine’s iconic soft drink, shuttered after owner Frank Anicetti passed away in 2017. In its place came Frank’s Pub, which pays tribute to the museum’s charismatic owner with plenty of Moxie memorabilia on the walls. Then, in April 2018, brothers Jason and Tyson LaVerdiere opened their restaurant, Flux, serving modern American cuisine.

As the name implies, the LaVerdiere brothers are embracing the wave of change they’re a part of in Lisbon Falls. Over the past three and a half years, the restaurant has built a loyal following with its 12 or so core menu items, which include a decadent poutine and a signature burger topped with Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and caramelized onions. “People would lose it if we took [those items] off,” Tyson says.

Jason, an alum of the now-closed Walter’s in Portland, fulfills his desire for creativity with an extensive selection of specials, offering seven to eight additional dishes a night. The specials are “hyper-local, hyper-seasonal,” he says, and reflect what’s abundant at the farmers’ market or what foragers are finding in the woods. On a raw, rainy night in the late fall he served wild mushrooms alongside lemon sole and a warming pheasant and bean cassoulet.

The night I am dining at Flux, a deep bowl of plump steamed mussels comes topped with a mound of fresh herbs and two long, buttery slices of grilled sourdough baguette. The dish is inspired by Bissell Brothers’ Substance Ale, with lemongrass and lime leaves added to mirror the flavors of the hoppy beer and cream sauce. I see why diners often order extra bread to sop up the remaining sauce—Jason reports he once saw someone put it in a glass and drink it.

Much of the popularity of Flux’s fare can be attributed to Jason’s from-scratch approach to cooking. From pasta and bread to fermented foods and stocks, nearly everything served at Flux is homemade. “We make everything but the ketchup,” Tyson says. The pair acknowledge that making many foods that can be purchased can be difficult, but they’re dedicated to the approach nonetheless. Jason lives two blocks away, so he can pop over and tend to longer projects, like the veal demi-glace that cooks for three days before becoming a part of the restaurant’s signature poutine.

Jason studied biology before attending culinary school and uses his knowledge of microbiology in his many fermentation projects. A tangy, purple sauerkraut cuts through the richness of the fried chicken sandwich, while koji, a mold-inoculated rice used in the chicken’s marinade, intensifies the meat’s savory flavors. Chefs in the know love this Japanese technique, which amplifies the flavor of anything it’s added to, making foods “taste more like themselves,” according to Jason.

Jason employs other unusual ingredients to maximize a dish’s flavor, like sodium citrate in the macaroni and cheese. The acidic powder thickens the cheese sauce and keeps it emulsified, resulting in a rich sauce with the flavor of a tangy English cheddar and the smoothness of melted American cheese. It coats curly housemade cavatelli pasta without becoming oily or grainy.

But the food at Flux doesn’t rely solely on chemistry tricks to deliver flavor. Jason uses classic techniques when making the poutine but then substitutes fried potato pavé for the French fries: thinly sliced potatoes are layered with cream and baked, then pressed and cut into cubes. The layers expand when fried, creating crispy edges around a soft, creamy interior. The potatoes are topped with cheese curds and the veal demi-glace, then roasted in a mini cast-iron skillet. “It’s like highbrow stoner food,” Jason says. “It’s probably the best thing I’ve ever made.”

The restaurant’s bread and desserts are all made by baker Kristal Robishaw, who took over the duties from Jason within the past year. Traditional desserts like cheesecake, tres leches cake, and chocolate cake impress with their modern plating. Take the latter, for example: a smooth shell of ganache covers a dome of chocolate cake atop a layer of rich mousse. Torn bits of cake surround it, and a few chewy beet macaron shells rest atop dollops of whipped cream. This elevated take on a standard is a fitting end to my fantastic meal.


The team at Flux includes (left to right) Cameron Goslin, Kristal Robishaw, Jason LaVerdiere, Tyson LaVerdiere, and Trevor Charette.

Cocktails at Flux also feature many housemade ingredients, like the jalapeno-infused tequila that warms up the Spring Heat, a margarita with the floral flavors of St. Germain liqueur. Twelve taps feature exclusively Maine-brewed beers, and there’s a varied list of wines, 30 of which are available by the glass.

Flux offers options for nostalgic and adventurous diners alike. Order the classic Flux burger at every visit, or branch out and try one (or several) of Jason’s inventive specials. As his brother Tyson says, “You’ll never get flavor-bored here. Never.”

FLUX

12 Main St., Lisbon Falls
207.407.4109
fluxnomnom.com

Serving American fare with modern techniques and a focus on scratch-made preparations. Asian and fermented ingredients add global influence to many dishes.

Appetizers $14–$19 Entrees $17–$42 Dessert $9–$14

ROCK AROUND THE CLOCK

The restaurant’s location was a diner before the LaVerdiere brothers took over, and Flux’s exterior still bears a retro stainless-steel facade. The former diner is rumored to be the inspiration for the time-travel portal in Stephen King’s novel 11/22/63, in which the main character attempts to prevent the assassination of President John F. Kennedy. Fans of the Maine writer often ask to see the stairs to the restaurant’s basement, but so far no one’s reported discovering a way to turn back time.

HOURS

Dinner: Thursday–Saturday, 5 p.m.– 9 p.m.

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