On summer days, there’s that moment when the sunlight is slanting into the long evening and we come to a crossroad, or a tucked-away shop, or an overlook on the remotest coastline, and there it is, the familiar beacon: an ice cream stand.

Sweet relief. Soon a scoop or a twist on a cone—maybe with sprinkles—will be ours.

It’s a rewarding summer quest. On warm-weather travels with photographer Peter Frank Edwards, I’m always on the lookout for chances to get a cone. And Maine has seemingly endless ice cream diversions. The Department of Agriculture, Conservation, and Forestry is currently compiling a “Real Maine Ice Cream Trail” online at realmaine.com, but a statewide tally a few years ago counted more than 300 ice cream windows. Across the state, a combination of entrepreneurial spirit, frozen confections, and afternoon sunshine adds up to mile after mile of ice cream opportunities to discover.

Boats by the Bridge

The first time we stop at the Dairy Port in Bucksport, one of the soft-serve flavors on offer is Grapenut, Peter Frank’s favorite. Made in-house, the ice cream retains the crunch of the cereal blended into the creamy base. We’re hooked.

Owners Colin and Faith Meshey bought the ice cream land-mark in 2020 from Larry Wahl after Colin, a local youth pastor, had worked in the shop to learn the recipes and traditions. The soft-serve recipes are developed on-site, and details are closely guarded, Colin says. “Lots of testing and tweaking. Ingredients like peanut butter are tricky.” Customers vote on favorites, including Orange Dream, peanut butter chocolate, black raspberry, and coffee, which are announced in an online daily calendar.

Open since the 1950s, the Dairy Port is located in a historic narrow storefront that was previously a fish market and a barber shop. The shop catches direct afternoon sunlight, and that’s when the lines start. The Mesheys invite me inside to see some of the scoop-ing action. As I step across the black and white checkerboard floor between freezers and milkshake blenders, the crew is working in rhythm. Faith lifts a lever to release vanilla soft serve onto a cone, and then Colin dips the cone in a cherry-red coating that imme-diately begins to harden into a shell. It’s a classic ice cream feat.

I also notice what the crew sees out the order windows. Just across Main Street is Bucksport Harbor, with across-the-water views to the towering Penobscot Narrows Bridge and Observatory and the mid-1800s Fort Knox beside it. At our next visit, my order is the Schooner, an oversized banana sundae served in a boat-shaped bowl. I carry it closer to the shore views before happily shoveling whipped cream, bananas, pineapple, and bridge-high scoops of ice cream out of a pool of chocolate.

Afternoons at Red’s

There’s an Otto Pizza across the street and Portland Head Light within a few miles, but first we join the line that’s forming in the parking lot of the white, barn-shaped building with the tall red roof. This is Red’s Dairy Freeze in South Portland, where long menu boards list shakes and slushes, cones, and candy-blended concoctions. All the options here are made with soft serve in dozens of flavors, including yogurt and dairy-free varieties. Kids’ flavors like tutti-frutti and cotton candy are on offer, along with more adult-leaning butter rum and pina colada shakes.

The first children we see are holding soft-serve cones dipped in googly-eye sprinkles—the silly eyeballs are edible, of course. Established in 1952, Red’s is known for dishing up fun menu items and drawing loyal customers year after year. I sidle up for one of the many specialties, the Boston Shake, a chocolate shake that is given an extra pour of cold chocolate sauce to float on top.

“Winter is long, and we know that it’s over when we see the lines at Red’s,” says Havi Asch, who lives nearby and says that visits to the shop have been a tradition in her family since she was a child. Now she brings her own children. “Everything here is sticky sweet, and they even have vegan,” she says. “It’s incredible.”

Science and Sweetcream

DeFranca, whose background is in professional dance, begins scooping and describing the different flavors to choose from. First, we try their signature sweet cream flavor—traditionally the base for other flavors, it’s simply cream, milk, sugar, and egg and is subtle and milky, not sweet. A scoop of strawberry flavor puts the summer berry at the fore—like a bowl of fresh strawberries and cream—and the brown butter crunch flavor is all buttery comfort.

The couple talk of other seasons and ingredients, and I’m eager to return for any and all—maybe starting with the sour cherry from a local orchard, or the roasted chestnut made from American chestnuts they help gather in the fall in partnership with a University of New England professor who’s studying the trees.

Gifford’s Ice Cream Factory

To see ice cream making at a larger scale, we visit one of the state’s largest producers, Gifford’s Ice Cream, head-quartered in Skowhegan in a former dairy. Gifford’s opened its first ice cream stand in 1980, and the company is still a family business. Its ice cream is served at dozens of shops and stands in the summertime, including five of its own, plus it is sold in grocery stores. (I’ve been picking up quarts of the cannoli flavor lately.)

Gifford’s makes one flavor at a time, and this morning strawberry is on the production line. Five-gallon buckets of whole, thawed strawberries are poured into a cream mix. (The milk and cream are sourced in Maine.) A network of pipes moves the mixture overhead until it’s emptied into containers for a super-chilled freezing, then stored on racks until loaded onto trucks for delivery.

All of this is simply an expansion by the current generation of the Gifford family on what their parents did in the business’s early days. CEO Lindsay (Gifford) Skilling recalls that her father would sometimes get a call and then personally make a rush delivery. “He didn’t want our customers to run out of popular flavors of ice cream on a sunny weekend or Memorial Day or the Fourth of July,” she says.

J.C. Gifford, Lindsay’s brother and vice president of the company, says he sometimes got to ride along on those special deliveries, and he paid attention. “You’d get to see the intersection between your father and the customer—it was work, but you could see the friendship,” he says.

J.C. remembers when Gifford’s was developing the Lobster Tracks flavor. “Our dad and uncle were there, and they wanted to make sure the candy color was right. They went out to get a lobster and steamed it to see if the lobster cooked to the same orange-red.” The color matched the candy in the ice cream, he says, smiling, “and I got to eat the lobster.”

The company releases new flavors every spring. No seafood is replicated in this year’s lineup, but there’s Cone-y Pretzel Whirl, banana cream pie, and Maine Black Fly (vanilla strawberry ripple chip). Oh my

Ice Cream Roads

Throughout the summer, we visit more ice cream stops on various road trips, including tiny Bray Brook Ice Cream on a hillside beside a farmhouse on the roll-ing two-lane Route 131 in Appleton, and the fantastic glowing cone that houses the entire ice cream stand at Holden a Kone at the entrance to the KOA Campground in Holden.

Maine has a super-love for ice cream, and I do, too. It’s a personal interest—my first jobs growing up were at ice cream stands, and I’m always game to try the next scoop. But maybe ice cream is personal for everyone? Every time the cream melts a little before the cone’s finished, there it is: another reminder of summer-time’s sweetness.

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The post The Best Food Trail is an Ice Cream Trail appeared first on The Maine Mag.

The challenge of eating outdoors last winter was sometimes fun (and necessary), but this year I’m ready to go back inside where it’s warm. Let’s reconnect with loved ones over a shared meal, surrounded by the pleasant buzz of strangers enjoying a night out. Maine has so many destination restaurants, so here’s a pared-down list of nine worthy spots for when you need to shake up your “Netflix and chill” routine. Ditch the sweatpants and put down the takeout menu: we’re going out.

Joshua’s
1637 Post Rd. | Wells | joshuasrestaurantandbar.com

Cozy up with some farm-to-table fare at this restaurant located in a restored 1774 Colonial-style house on Route 1 in Wells. Chef Josh Mather serves upscale American dishes using many ingredients grown nearby on his parents’ farm. The dining room is partitioned into several small rooms, providing plenty of intimate corners in which to enjoy your meal. Share a dish of wood-grilled mushrooms with truffle butter to start, and don’t miss my favorite entree: roasted haddock with caramelized onion crust served over mushroom risotto.

The White Barn Inn
37 Beach Ave. | Kennebunk | whitebarninn.com

This luxury inn’s restaurant is regularly voted one of Maine’s most romantic dining spots, and for good reason. With white tablecloths, a huge window that overlooks trees wrapped in twinkling lights, and even a piano player, the setting is primed for romance. Classic Maine dishes have luxurious touches, like caviar atop the lobster roll and sherry-laced lobster bisque. The Little Barn offers a more casual environment with a bistro menu, but you may find yourself envious of the diners in the main dining room.

North 43 Bistro
1 Spring Point Dr. | South Portland | north43bistro.com

For the best view of the Portland skyline, venture across the river to South Portland’s Ferry Village neighborhood. The window-lined dining room overlooks Spring Point Marina, and the expansive menu offers dishes for everyone, from boar bolognese to miso-ginger-glazed salmon. A date night at this waterfront bistro will make you feel like you’ve gotten farther away than just South Portland.

Chaval
58 Pine St. | Portland | chavalmaine.com

With its warm lighting and French- and Spanish-inspired cuisine, Chaval in Portland’s West End is a great date-night destination. Don’t miss the starters, like the simple pan con tomate or trumpet mushrooms with chorizo and duck egg. Entrees like swordfish a la plancha and coq au vin are hearty wintertime favorites. For a truly special evening, reserve one of the heated greenhouses on the patio and enjoy a private meal in comfort.

Via Vecchia
10 Dana St. | Portland | vvoldport.com

Between the glam decor and the standout cocktails, a visit to this Old Port restaurant makes for a memorable evening. Velvet-lined banquettes and leather club chairs offer comfortable seating in the front bar area, while the mezzanine in the back provides a more intimate environment. Tropical cocktail lovers won’t want to miss the Averna Mai Tai, and there are a variety of housemade pastas and flatbreads perfect for sharing.

Evo Kitchen + Bar
443 Fore St. | Portland | evoportland.com

Sit at the chef’s counter at this buzzy Mediterranean spot in the Old Port to watch the kitchen prepare modern takes on classics like baba ghanoush and chicken shawarma. Tables in the upstairs dining room offer more privacy for enjoying small plates of the restaurant’s signature chickpea fries and bluefin tuna crudo. Don’t miss dessert at Evo—pastry chef Maureen Hobby’s creative sweets are perfect for sharing.

Water Street Kitchen + Bar
15 Water St. | Wiscasset | waterstreetmaine.com

With big windows that overlook the Sheepscot River from its enclosed porch, Water Street Kitchen and Bar’s ambiance creates the right conditions for romance. Chef Ed Colburn serves a menu featuring plenty of Maine seafood with French, Italian, and Spanish influences, like roasted lobster with tarragon butter and a shellfish paella. The recent renovation of this property makes it a great destination for a romantic midcoast road trip.

Nina June
24 Central St. | Rockport | ninajunerestaurant.com

This Mediterranean restaurant from chef Sara Jenkins is located in charming Rockport, which feels like a getaway all on its own. The restaurant has great views of the harbor from its dining room, where a four-course prix fixe meal made up of Italian, Spanish, and other Mediterranean dishes is served. Enjoy the same ambiance with a more casual menu in the cafe seating. Take home a memento from the selection of imported groceries, like tahini, olive oil, or dried pasta.

The Fiddlehead Restaurant
84 Hammond St. | Bangor | thefiddleheadrestaurant.com

Diners in Bangor love this casual yet elegant spot for its farm-to-table fare and extensive list of unique cocktails. With exposed brick and hardwood floors, the restaurant has a cozy vibe that will warm you up on a winter night. Start with a plate of local cheeses, duck rillettes, and housemade tomatillo jam, or marinated mushrooms over farro. Entrees like vegetable chow mein and lamb tamales reflect the global influence of chef Melissa Chaiken’s international childhood.

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The post Where to Go For Date Night This Winter appeared first on The Maine Mag.

As the temperatures dropped in Maine, propane heaters and blankets became the must-have accessories for dining out. Some restaurants have taken an extra step and constructed igloos, fish shacks, and other creative ways to keep diners feeling safe while eating. Here’s a list of 10 spots around the state that are helping to make dining outdoors in a Maine winter a little more comfortable.

Batson River Brewing and Distilling | 12 Western Ave., Kennebunk | 207.967.8821
Get cozy at this brewery and distillery’s tasting room in one of six fish shacks that are far cuter than anything you’ll see on a pond. The heated shacks seat up to eight and can be reserved in advance. Flip the flag on the outside of the shack to alert your server that you’re in need of another round.

Chaval | 58 Pine St., Portland | 207.772.1110
Heated greenhouses on the back patio of this West End restaurant let you enjoy Chaval’s French- and Spanish-inspired menu with less risk. Reserve one for dinner or a weekend brunch when you can enjoy a basket of chef Ilma Lopez’s famed pastry, a soft-boiled egg, and a mug of Speckled Axe coffee.

Rising Tide Brewing Company | 103 Fox St., Portland | 207.370.2337
This East Bayside brewery has worked hard since reopening in June to provide a comfortable outdoor environment for guests. Heated bubble tents and open-air patio seating around fire pits is the latest iteration. Reserve a bubble and enjoy wood-fired comfort food from Fire and Company with your brew.

The Thirsty Pig | 37 Exchange St., Portland | 207.773.2469
Enjoy the Pig’s vast selection of sausages and craft beers on its expansive back deck in the heart of Portland’s Old Port. Newly constructed ice huts, enclosed on three sides, offer a respite from the chill. Snag one of four huts on a first-come, first-served basis.

Terlingua | 40 Washington Ave., Portland | 207.956.7573
Terlingua has reopened down the street from its original location, just in time for us to reunite with its house margaritas on the heated back deck. With open-air patio seating, Adirondack chairs around a fire pit, and picnic tables in the Margarita Garden, there’s ample opportunity to enjoy the barbecue and Tex-Mex menu.

Mast Landing Brewing Company | 920 Main St., Westbrook | 207.887.9147
This Westbrook brewery has constructed several heated igloos in front of the brewery and on its back patio. Order beer and food from the on-site food truck Mainstay with your phone, and a server will drop the order on a barrel outside the igloo.

Maine Beer Company | 525 US-1, Freeport | 207.221.5711
The covered patio just off this Freeport brewery’s tasting room is more popular than ever, as customers can now reserve a table. Heaters knock the chill off so you can comfortably enjoy the selection of hoppy ales, along with wood-fired pizza from the kitchen.

Oxbow Beer Garden | 420 Main St., Oxford | 207.539.5178
Oxbow Brewing took over Carter’s XC Ski Center in early 2019, making it perfectly poised as a pandemic activity. Snowshoe, cross-country ski, or fat bike through the trails (gear rentals available on site) and then warm up by a fire pit with wood-fired pizza and the brewery’s funky beers. The brewery’s Portland tasting room also offers heated A-frames over picnic tables.

Odd Alewives Farm Brewery | 99 Old Route One, Waldoboro | 207.790.8406
Reserve a fire pit at this Midcoast farmhouse brewery to stay toasty while you sip a brew. Three different style pits can accommodate groups of various sizes. Wood-fired pizza and snacks are available—don’t skip the s’mores kits for some family-friendly fun.

Cafe Miranda | 15 Oak St., Rockland | 207.594.2034
This Midcoast favorite is known for its extensive menu of globally inspired fare and quirky decor. The new outdoor seating area, dubbed the Flamingo, is a festive spot to wait for takeout or enjoy a meal. Cozy up to a fire pit and have a drink from the full bar with live music on weekends.

The post 10 Unique Options for Outdoor Dining in Maine This Winter appeared first on The Maine Mag.