Guides – The Maine Mag https://www.themainemag.com Tue, 03 Jan 2023 14:41:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 How to Winter in Maine https://www.themainemag.com/how-to-winter-in-maine/ Mon, 02 Jan 2023 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64586 How to Winter in Maine From sleigh rides and romantic dinners to saunas and snowmobiles, this roundup of seasonal activities and package deals will keep you engaged all winter long. by Genevieve WalkerPhotography by Peter Frank Edwards and Nicole Wolf

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How to Winter in Maine

From sleigh rides and romantic dinners to saunas and snowmobiles, this roundup of seasonal activities and package deals will keep you engaged all winter long.

by Genevieve Walker
Photography by Peter Frank Edwards and Nicole Wolf

Issue: January // February 2023

Maine’s winters are storied, and not just because they’re cold. (If you’ve ever spent time in the Midwest, you’ll know Maine has it pretty good.) But in Maine the season lasts, the snowfall is plenty, and the daylight hours are few. The trick to winter here is to plan: get the right boots, gloves, and a proper hat, and build extra time into your commute for salting, shoveling, and running the car five minutes before you hit the road.

But that’s just the short term. Long-term plans are about optimizing (or reframing) the months of deep darkness, because once the early seasonal festivities are out of the way, that’s when winter in Maine really begins. In January, February, and March it’s time to ski, skate, snowmobile, and snowshoe; to cut holes in the frozen lakes to fish, mush dogs across snow-padded trails, and cozy up under blankets on the seats of horse-drawn carriages. Unlike other famous winter destinations, if you’re here in February, you’re guaranteed the kind of chill that warrants a sauna and drinking mulled cider by a fire.

The upside is there’s so much to experience, you’ll have a hard time packing everything into one season. To help narrow down your winter-weather to-dos and to kick-off your long-term planning, we’ve rounded up some of the Pine Tree State’s most popular activities and winter events, along with a selection of our favorite cozy lodges and package deals. This is winter in Maine, after all —go enjoy yourself.

Snowmobiling 101

Each winter, outdoor enthusiasts flock to Maine to glide, skate, or motor their way across the frozen landscape. Motoring, in particular, is wildly popular. The snowmobile—a motorized sled guided by ski-like feet—allows its pilot to cover a ton of ground, and unlike other wintry pastimes, doesn’t require hills, lifts, or frozen ponds. Snowmobiling is so beloved, in fact, that it’s considered a lifestyle. The state’s consistently heavy snowfall (albeit less reliable these past few years), its robust network of trails, and 280-plus dedicated clubs make Maine the place to go for anyone looking to spend months in the snow, slipping between pines.

If you don’t have a snowmobile, you can rent from one of the state’s many licensed operations, found on the Maine.gov website. The licensing of renters helps to ensure rider safety while funneling funds to the upkeep of miles of trails. The Interconnected Trail System, or ITS, is a network of 4,000 “primary” miles that link to another 10,000 for a total of 14,000 miles of track to explore.

Aroostook County, Maine’s northern “hunting-cap-shaped” region (look at a map—you’ll see) that abuts Canada is snowmobile central. Other hotspots are Moosehead Lake and Kennebec Valley, where Coburn Mountain calls to the more experienced riders capable of climbing 3,700 feet to its summit.

New to the sport? Sign up for a safety course listed on Maine Inland Fisheries and Wildlife’s Programs and Resources page. Visit the Maine Snowmobile Association (MSA)’s site for a downloadable safety pamphlet, and hire a guide or book a package that includes oversight by an expert. You can start your research by looking up a club in the area you’re hoping to visit, also available via the MSA.

Snowmobiles are not without their detractors. Among the complaints are noise and environmental pollution as well as disruption to animal habitat. But there are things you can do to minimize impact, like staying on marked trails and avoiding aftermarket add-ons that change emissions. All of this is part of being a good snowmobiler. The ground rules, as the MSA states, are: “Ride to the right. Ride sober. Ride at a reasonable speed. Stay on the marked trails. Use hand signals. Ride defensively.”

Outdoor Guides

Not 100 percent comfortable with hiking alone in Maine in February? It’s true, ten minutes standing in the snow staring at a map makes your toes numb (and the cold kills phone batteries pretty quick). Consider working with a recreational guide. A licensed guide knows what permits you may need as well as how to properly outfit for the journey, mitigating time-consuming guesswork in the field. More than that, guides bring you closer to the experience you’re after, which, as anyone who has hunted adventure can attest, is never exactly as the books, magazines, or internet say it’s going to be. MaineGuides.com is a good place to start looking for an expert in pretty much any outdoor activity you’re hoping to tackle.

Lodges + Packages

Yes, you love to ski and snowmobile and ice skate. You’ve always wanted to sit in one of those huts on a frozen lake like the guys in Grumpy Old Men, catching fish through a hole, but equal to this is your desire to relax in a rough-hewn cabin next to a fire and read the hardback you bought at the airport. If this is you, consider the package deals offered by numerous hotels and resorts throughout the state. Not only do you get a cute place to stay, but you’ll also be connected to reputable guides who know the area and get premium access to gear rentals at some hard-to-beat prices. Here are a few good ones, for starters.

Luxurious

Pineland Farms, New Gloucester
This sprawling, working farm offers a quaint, comfortable, village-like experience. Wander through multiple gardens, check out the market, and stay in one of three guesthouses equipped with everything you need for a quiet, stately retreat. There’s also access to trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, as well as nearby gear rental, with day and season passes available. Sledding and skating on the farm’s 100- by 50-foot rink are free. Hot drinks and bites to take out are available in the Welcome Center.

Homey

Inn by the River, The Forks
This picturesque, white-paneled inn is set in Maine’s premier snowmobiling country. Choose from one of ten rooms in the inn or one of six winterized cabins. Hunt and snowmobile with a guide, and fuel up on-site. The inn partners with the Coburn Summit Riders Snowmobile Club and 201 PowerSports. Enjoy a proper meal and a drink at the inn’s restaurant and pub.

Remote

Carter’s XC Ski, Bethel
For the backwoods experience —think “glamping at a cabin”—check out Carter’s XC Ski, where the family-run and operated establishment manages a series of off-the-grid but well-curated and photo-ready cabins accessible by ski or snowshoe. Rentals, passes, and lessons are also available.

Adventure

Moose Mountain Inn, Greenville
For great package deals, head to central Maine’s Greenville and the Moose Mountain Inn, a hop and a skip from Moosehead, the second largest lake in New England. The inn is a tidy, two-story, motel-like strip with rustic decor. Choose from one of many deals, like two nights’ lodging plus a choice of two activities: a guided hike on snowshoes to a waterfall; a half-day, two-person snowmobile rental (pay extra to make it a guided tour); or a guided ice-fishing trip.

Rugged

New England Outdoor Center (NEOC), Millinocket
The NEOC lodge is situated on Millinocket Lake and faces Maine’s highest peak, Mount Katahdin, making it a perfect base camp for adventure. Choose from a series of winter-ready cabins, whether an eco-build or traditional log. Bring a group, plus your dog (for a $20 fee). There’s also an on-site restaurant and access to cross-country skiing, fat-tire bike, and snowshoe trails as well as ice fishing. If you’re looking to snowmobile, book a package that combines a cabin with rentals.

Winter Festivals

Snodeo
Based in Rangeley, this three-day event held in January is put on by the Rangeley Lakes Snowmobile Club. Though 2023 programming is still to be determined, it typically includes snowmobile races, stunt snowmobile riders, parades, fireworks, food, and the attendant partying.

Snowshoe Festival
On the Roberts Farm Preserve in Norway, the festival is set to launch on February 18th this year, with events spanning to the 25th. Though the lineup is still in flux as of this writing, you can expect activities like “a race to pancakes,” skijoring, sledding, a fat bike race, and, new this year, snowshoe yoga. Of course, a lot will depend on how the winter unfolds, but if the weather holds, there will be ice skating on the lake, too.

Valentine’s Day

For you disbelievers, consider this a culturally sanctioned excuse to get away from everyone except your spouse, partner, or special friend, or even by yourself, to eat a good meal (including chocolate-covered strawberries and sparkling wine) and stare at a fire. Here are a few ideas to get you going.

February is for lovers

Visit Kennebunkport’s entire-town celebration of the red and chocolate holiday. Last year, establishments participated in all kinds of ways, from dance parties at bars to spa and hotel packages. Check kennebunkportmainelodging.com for 2023 programming.

Horse-drawn sleigh rides

Several farms throughout the state offer romantic rides in horse-drawn buggies. Check out the Deepwood Farms carriage that leaves from the Bethel Inn or from Goranson Farm in Dresden.

Dog sledding for two

That’s right: Ultimate Dog Sledding Experience offers a dog-sled trek by a snowy lake that ends with a fire, “seating for two,” cookies, and cocoa (and for $135 extra, a charcuterie board).

Romantic dinners

The possibilities are endless if what you’re after is dinner by a fire with a view of ice crystals hanging from eves.

For straight-up Romance with a capital R, book a dinner at the Lovell Inn in Lovell to enjoy a fine meal replete with “soft lighting and an original wood-burning fireplace.”

If you’re after classic fine dining in a picturesque New England village, try Paul’s Steak House in Boothbay Harbor.

Looking for exceptional (and award-winning) local cuisine and contemporary atmosphere? Check out Wolfpeach in Camden.

Dinner on a boat? Go to DiMillo’s, where an old-school red sauce establishment meets the Old Port. DiMillo’s offers a special Valentine’s Day menu and wine list.

Go rustic at the White Barn Inn Restaurant in Kennebunkport, where you can dine in yes, a barn, albeit a well decorated one featuring a picture window.

Saunas

Winter is hard on the body. Daylight hours are scarce, and aside from the lucky few who are skiing daily or weekly, the rest of us are scraping by on our exercise mats and treadmills. The dry heat of heaters and stoves does its own damage. Few things combat these realities like a good sauna.

Destination Health
This infrared sauna in Bar Harbor is a different experience than the traditional wooden room version but is no less effective or enjoyable.

Washington Baths
Portland’s slick contemporary experience for all genders. There’s also a cafe with post-sweat snacks.

Richmond Sauna and B&B
A Richmond B&B that opened in 1976 and offers the rustic, Finnish style experience—wood-fired sauna, hot tubs, and a swimming pool. Note: This is a traditional, clothing-optional situation. Evening sauna is included in a stay.

Driftless Sauna
Based in Saco, this reasonably priced mobile sauna can be rented for the day, the weekend, or an entire week. It’s probably the best thing anyone with a winter birthday could possibly add to their party.

Native Sauna
A luxury mobile sauna experience, choose to rent a 13- or a 20-foot sauna or a wood-fired hot tub, and build onto the experience with Atlantic cedar camp chairs, robes, towels, and even a moveable firepit.

After Dark

Not afraid of the dark? Good, because the sun sets around 4:30 p.m., which means long shadows and dinner vibes start at 3:30, and there’s a whole lot of “day” to go after the sun sets. Check out opportunities for guided night-sky-viewing walks through organizations like the Western Foothills Land Trust, and full moon tours led by Carter’s XC Ski. There are also winter running clubs led by Fleet Feet.

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Where to Cross-Country Ski This Winter https://www.themainemag.com/where-to-cross-country-ski-this-winter/ Mon, 02 Jan 2023 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64583 Has cabin fever set in yet? Are you itching to get back outside? If you’re looking for an activity that gets your heart pumping more than snow-shoeing—but doesn’t require the long list of gear necessary for downhill skiing—cross-country (also known

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Has cabin fever set in yet? Are you itching to get back outside? If you’re looking for an activity that gets your heart pumping more than snow-shoeing—but doesn’t require the long list of gear necessary for downhill skiing—cross-country (also known as Nordic) skiing might be your happy medium. Whether you prefer skate or classic, fish scales, skins, or klister (we know you’re still out there), brave the cold and hit the trails at these eight Maine trail systems.

Pineland Farms, New Gloucester

Located on 5,000 acres of farmland, the trails at Pineland Farms are open year-round, first for running, hiking, biking, and disc golf in the spring through fall, then transforming into a full-blown Nordic center in the winter. From wooded hills to rolling fields, there are trails for all levels of cross-country skiers. Looking to work on your form? Sign up for an hourlong lesson: choose a private one-on-one session, a semi-private class with two people, or a group lesson with three to five students. If you need to take a break, check out the warming huts along the trails or stop in at the Pineland Farms Market for a snack. Plus, if you have little ones along for the ride, you can rent a chariot for $16 an hour. Be sure to check the trail conditions before you go.

Tickets: $20 adult day pass, $15 afternoon pass (after 1 p.m.)
Rentals: $20 for adult classic passage, $24 for adult skate package
Trail mileage: 18

Carter’s XC Ski, Bethel

Offering a wide range of trails for everyone from beginner skiers to expert gliders, Carter’s XC Ski has fantastic views of Maine’s western mountains, in addition to picturesque snowy, wooded vistas. Visitors can book one-hour, private, semi-private, or group lessons for all levels of experience in both skate and classic skiing. Just be sure to call ahead and make a reservation, because they fill up fast! Want to keep the fun going? Consider renting an off-the-grid, wood-stove-heated cabin that’s only accessible by ski or snowshoe.

Tickets: $20 adult day pass
Rentals: $20 adult classic package, $25 adult skate package
Trail mileage: 34

Oxbow Beer Garden, Oxford

At the original location of the Carter’s XC Ski Center (before the Bethel location opened in 1992), these five miles of trails sit adjacent to Oxbow Brewing Company’s Beer Garden with rentals available from nonprofit Portland Gear Hub on Saturdays and Sundays. Rarely groomed, the trails offer a rustic experience of wandering through the woods, made even better by a warming hut where you can imbibe some of the brewery’s offerings before braving the cold once more. Once you finish up your trek, be sure to head to the beer garden to enjoy a pizza and a brew around a firepit or in one of the plexiglass A-frames equipped with heat lamps.

Tickets: Free
Rentals: $45 adult ski package
Trail mileage: 5

Acadia National Park Carriage Roads, Mount Desert Island

Popular with hikers and bikers during the summer and fall, once the snow flies, the carriage roads of Acadia National Park become a winter wonderland for cross-country skiers. Managed and maintained by nonprofit Friends of Acadia, use of the trails is limited to when the snow level exceeds six inches and the roadbeds are frozen, so be sure to check the trail conditions before you make the trip up the coast! If you time it right, you’ll see the best of Maine’s national park in its quietest season.

Tickets: Free with a park entrance fee
Rentals: Available at various MDI stores
Trail mileage: 45

Nordic Heritage Center, Presque Isle

Home to a world-class cross-country ski and biathlon venue, the Nordic Heritage Center represents the height of Nordic skiing in Maine. With a lodge, kitchen facilities, a ski waxing building, and on-site saunas, the center is primed to host elite and amateur athletes alike. With numerous easy, moderate, and difficult rated trails that take fun turns through snowy wooded scenes, skiers of all levels will be entertained for hours on end.

Tickets: $8 adult day pass
Rentals: $10 adult ski package
Trail mileage: 12

Fort Kent Outdoor Center, Fort Kent

The site of local, national, and international cross-country skiing competitions, the Fort Kent Outdoor Center was originally used as a training facility for elite Nordic athletes. Now open to the public, there are novice, intermediate, and advanced trails that range from half a mile to four miles in length. Need to warm up? Head over to the Tenth Mountain Lodge, which has a great room, a sauna, a kitchen, and a field-stone fireplace to relax by before you venture back out into the snow.

Tickets: $15 adult day pass
Rentals: $15 adult ski package
Trail mileage: 4.5

Rangeley Lakes Trails Center, Rangeley

A stone’s throw from the shores of Saddleback Lake and just down the road from Saddleback Mountain, the Rangeley Lakes Trail Center offers a wide range of year-round trails popular with hikers and mountain bikers in the summer and snowshoers and Nordic enthusiasts come winter. With mostly beginner and intermediate terrain, a warming yurt, and 20-plus gnome-homes (and their inhabitants) hidden throughout, this is a family-friendly trip any time of the year.

Tickets: $22 adult day pass
Rentals: $20 adult ski package
Trail mileage: 35

Black Mountain of Maine, Rumford

Featuring big climbs, fast downhills, and plenty of flowy sections, the cross-country ski trails at Black Mountain of Maine are popular with skiers of all ages and skill levels. Known for recreational skiing as well as competitions held by the Chisholm Ski Club, a trip to the Black Mountain trails is guaranteed to expose you to skiers of all levels. Take it easy on a beginner trail or challenge yourself on moderate to advanced terrain.

Tickets: $15 adult day pass
Rentals: $20 adult ski package
Trail mileage: 10.5

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Moosehead Lake in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/moosehead-lake-in-48-hours/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 19:42:57 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63852 FridayHome sweet campground No trip to Moosehead Lake can begin without first stopping in at Indian Hill Trading Post. This one-stop shopping experience has you covered before you head into the woods. The trading post has a wide variety of

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The public beach at Lily Bay State Park.

Friday
Home sweet campground

No trip to Moosehead Lake can begin without first stopping in at Indian Hill Trading Post. This one-stop shopping experience has you covered before you head into the woods. The trading post has a wide variety of outdoor apparel, as well as gear for boating, hunting, and fishing. There is also a fully stocked grocery store. Lily Bay State Park has long been a go-to home base for visitors. With 924 acres on the shore of Moosehead Lake and 90 campsites, this park makes for a perfect gateway to the region. Many of the sites are on the water, but for those who prefer to be a bit more tucked into the woods, there is easy access to a public beach. The campground also has several walking trails, a boat launch, and a comfort station with restrooms and heated showers. Firewood and ice can be purchased on-site.

After a long day of travel, prepping a camp meal might seem like a lot, so head back into Greenville for dinner at Stress Free Moose Pub. This local staple is always buzzing in the summer months. The restaurant has an expansive menu, two outdoor seating areas, and live local music.

Saturday
By woods, air, and water

Feeling up for a day hike? Gulf Hagas, or the “Grand Canyon of the East,” offers views of the Pleasant River as it plunges through three miles of tall slate gorges and waterfalls. The complete experience will take you on an eight-mile loop with the dramatic Screw Auger Falls at the halfway point. Another hike for the bucket list is Mount Kineo. This iconic mountain in the middle of the lake is accessible only by boat or ferry. The hiking loop is about three and a half miles and gives you excellent views of the water.

Maybe you prefer to explore by vehicle? Get your four-wheel drive ready and head down the logging roads to find some off-the-beaten-path destinations. Elephant Mountain has a trail where hikers can visit the B-52 Crash Site Memorial, where a Cold War–era plane crash of a B-52 bomber can be seen scattered throughout the woods. Only two of the nine passengers survived the tragedy. The Number Four Mountain Trail is a primitive footpath following the traditional route taken by fire wardens who once staffed the Number Four Mountain tower.

A sea plane from Jack’s Air Service sits at the docks in downtown Greenville.

Alternatively, you can easily spend a day on the water. Take a paddle around the banks of the lake, or head to nearby Prong Pond and paddle out to the island for a picnic. There are several amazing opportunities for anglers as well. If you’re got access to a boat, Moosehead has a legendary population of salmon and trout to troll for in the summer. Fly-fishers can also take a quick drive to the Roach River, in the Kokadjo region. If you’d rather just sit back and relax, book yourself a ticket on the Katahdin, affectionately known as the Kate. This steamboat was used to haul cattle and livestock across the river and is now a popular option for sightseeing.

If land and water exploration still leave you hungry for more adventure, take to the skies. Book an aerial tour of the region with Currier’s Flying Service or Jack’s Air Service. Both outfits offer several packages and options.

After a day of exploring, head back to downtown Greenville to unwind. For dinner, watch the sunset from the back deck of Dockside Inn & Tavern, then head next door to Rowboat Joe’s waterfront bar for a cocktail.

The Stress Free Moose Pub is a popular spot for visitors and locals alike.

Sunday
Safaris and shopping

Visitors to Moosehead always have their eyes peeled to catch sight of a moose. Northeast Whitewater offers guided rafting trips, but you can also sign up to join them on a Moose Safari: start your Sunday off early, throw some eggs and bacon on the grill, and head out at sunrise to catch a glimpse of the iconic Maine mammal.

Downtown Greenville has several small businesses to support while you’re in the area. Kamp Kamp Moosehead Lake Indian Store has a little bit of everything: antiques, handcrafted Maine furniture, and of course, plenty of camp decor. While you’re downtown, stop in at Northern Maine Minerals, Crazy Moose Fabrics, Maine Mountain Soap and Candle Company, and the Rock Room Candy Shoppe. On your way out of town, be sure to stop and grab lunch at Spring Creek Barbeque in Monson. The fall-off-the-bone ribs will leave a lasting impression, and Moosehead will be calling you for a return visit soon.

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5 Beginner Backpacking Trips to Take this Fall https://www.themainemag.com/5-beginner-backpacking-trips-to-take-this-fall/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 19:32:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63853 Taking your first backpacking trip is a rite of passage in the outdoor adventure world. Camping and hiking are both enjoyable in their own right, but there’s an almost indescribable feeling of satisfaction and autonomy when you combine the two,

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Taking your first backpacking trip is a rite of passage in the outdoor adventure world. Camping and hiking are both enjoyable in their own right, but there’s an almost indescribable feeling of satisfaction and autonomy when you combine the two, carrying on your back everything you need to survive and enjoy a couple days in the wilderness. After you’ve picked out your trip and gone through the humbling—and oftentimes frustrating—process of whittling down your gear by deciding what is necessary, what’s a luxury, and, most important, what will fit into your backpack (while keeping it light enough so that you can still carry it), it’s time to pull on those hiking boots and get walking. Are you ready to hit the trail with all the essentials and then some? Read on for our list of entry-level trips to start off your backpacking career in Maine.

PIAZZA ROCK, SANDY RIVER

An out-and-back trek with a gradual elevation gain, hiking to Piazza Rock along the Appalachian Trail is a great way to introduce yourself—and your family—to backpacking, especially if you have kids in tow. The majority of the climb is at the start of the trip, so be prepared to take breaks when necessary, and don’t get discouraged! Once you reach the campsite—which consists of a lean-to, privy, and fire ring—set up camp and then head out on the nearby side trail (roughly 0.1 miles) to see the eponymous Piazza Rock, a giant balancing boulder that cantilevers out into space, as well as natural caves formed by fallen boulders that provide welcome shade and cool temperatures on hot days.

Mileage: ~4.1 miles round trip
Elevation: 450 feet

LITTLE MOOSE POND, GREENVILLE

With close proximity to Moosehead Lake, Little Moose Pond gives first-time backpackers a taste of quintessential Maine adventures, minus the crowds. Start the trip from the Big Moose Mountain Trail trailhead along North Road near Greenville. Take the Mt. Link Trail, which will guide you past Big Moose Pond and deposit you on the shores of Little Moose Pond. Set up camp at one of two nearby campsites (which are first-come, first-served), where you will have access to a fire ring, picnic table, and nearby pit toilet. To take advantage of the views, make the short hike up Little Moose Mountain, a loop that follows the Little Moose Mountain trail and provides gorgeous views from the summit.

Mileage: ~3 to 4.3 miles round trip
Elevation: 646 feet

KATAHDIN LAKE, MILLINOCKET

A part of Baxter State Park, the trek to Katahdin Lake will take beginner backpackers along a relatively flat route that starts from the Roaring Brook Road across from the Avalanche Parking Area. Following the old Katahdin Lake Tote Road, hike a little over 3 miles along the Katahdin Lake Trail to the campsites at South Katahdin Lake. Set up camp at a primitive site, which includes a lean-to and a canoe that you can take out on the water. Be sure to rinse off with a refreshing swim, or at the very least take in the incredible views of Katahdin from the beach.

Mileage: ~7.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 0

SWAN ISLAND, RICHMOND

Located at the head of Merrymeeting Bay in the Kennebec River, Swan Island offers a multisport adventure in a short time span. To access the island, either hop on the ferry from Richmond or paddle a canoe or kayak out on your own. Once you’ve reached land, the walk to the campsite is about 1.5 miles, although there is the option to get a ride on a truck managed by the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife. The campground offers ten campsites equipped with lean-tos and fire rings, in addition to one tent-only site and one group camping site. Restroom facilities and a freshwater source are available as well. Once you set up camp, be sure to head out on the hiking trails, with hikes ranging from 0.5 to 7 miles.

Mileage: ~7 miles round trip
Elevation: 492 feet

CUTLER COAST PUBLIC RESERVED LAND, CUTLER

If you’re itching to dip your toes into the numerous adventures that the Bold Coast in downeast Maine has to offer, dive in with a short backpacking trip along the Cutler Coast. Starting from the Cutler Coast Public Reserved Land trailhead, take the Coastal Trail out along the cliffs to catch the breathtaking views of Maine’s rugged coastline. Be mindful of how slippery the rocks can be, and be sure to stay away from the edge! Depending on how much of a challenge you want, hike to one of four campsites roughly 3 to 5 miles from the trailhead. Please note that campfires are prohibited, and backpackers must bring in their water supply for the duration of the trip.

Mileage: ~5.6 to 9.6 miles round trip
Elevation: 0

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A Guide to Maine Stargazing https://www.themainemag.com/a-guide-to-maine-stargazing/ Tue, 02 Aug 2022 00:50:48 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63573 A Guide to Maine Stargazing Where to find the darkest skies, tips and tricks for budding astrophotographers, and future celestial events to watch for. by Jenny O’ConnellPhotography by Andy Gagne Issue: August 2022 THE LAST DARK SKY IN THE EAST

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A Guide to Maine Stargazing

Where to find the darkest skies, tips and tricks for budding astrophotographers, and future celestial events to watch for.

by Jenny O’Connell
Photography by Andy Gagne

Issue: August 2022

THE LAST DARK SKY IN THE EAST

Chasing Stars in AMC’s Maine Woods International Dark Sky Park

You know how it feels in your body: the deep inhale. The slack in your jaw, the melt of your shoulders. Your eyes widen. Your blood pressure drops. Something releases in you, soothed by the dark. As you gaze at the millions of stars twinkling above the horizon, you remember what you’ve forgotten: that you are actually quite small. Your ancestors stood and looked up at these same constellations. This sky is your connection to every other culture on the planet. To every other human being.

“You can look from the water to the forest to the sky, and it’s always looked like this,” says Steve Tatko, senior director of Maine Conservation and Land Management for the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC). “It’s never not been dark.”

We’re standing on the shore of Second Roach Pond on AMC conservation lands. That’s the name folks use nowadays, but what we’re really standing on is an esker—a long, winding ridge of stratified gravel left by the Laurentide Ice Sheet 26,000 years ago—the dividing line between two water-sheds and one of the last places in the world that was colonized by people. This campsite is a short canoe paddle from AMC’s Medawisla Lodge—medawisla is the Wabanaki word for “loon.” As night falls across the water, the birds call out with wild bursts of song, making their presence known.

“This is a forest that has developed in the presence of the Wabanaki people. You can stand on these riverbanks and see the same sky they did 7,000 years ago,” says Tatko, reminding me that this place, considered protected wilderness, has not evolved without the influence of humans. Western society’s narrative of “untouched” and “pristine” landscapes robs First Nations people of their sovereignty and agency in shaping the place they’ve occupied for nearly 12,000 years, and creates barriers that separate us from the natural world. “Who thought we’d need to protect the vista of the sky?” says Tatko. “That just tells you how far we’ve fallen in our ability to value the world around us. But I think it’s an incredibly important step to taking ownership over our own ability to connect with who we were, and who we still are.”

In 2021 the AMC Maine Woods property became the first International Dark Sky Park in New England. Situated at the edge of the North Maine Woods—an expanse of more than 14,000 square kilometers of largely uninhabited forest land that stretches from Monson, Maine, to the border of Canada—the sky we’re standing under and the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, which was designated an International Dark Sky Sanctuary in 2020, are the only protected dark sky areas in the region. With much of the Northeast converted for urban development, this forest has been identified as an important hotspot for habitat connectivity and climate change resilience. Still, it’s at risk: much of the surrounding land is owned by timber companies. “The scariest thing you can ever do from a conservation perspective is look at the parcel data,” Tatko says. “This is the last place in the East where it’s big.”

AMC is the North America’s oldest conservation group, but it wasn’t always that way. The organization, which supports outdoor recreation and maintains 1,800 miles of trails from Maine to D.C., began as a hiking club aimed at getting people outside. Over time, the idea emerged to develop a sense of stewardship through interaction with place. From lodges with soft beds and three meals a day to rustic campsites like this one, the AMC provides access to the outdoors for people of all ages and abilities based around a simple calculation: if you love something, you will protect it.

In Maine the AMC holistically manages 75,000 acquired acres in the North Maine Woods and the 100-Mile Wilderness for biological conservation, sustainable forestry, backcountry recreation, and environmental education. Now that conservation lens is being applied to the night sky.

Founded in 2001, the International Dark Sky Places program encourages communities, parks, and protected areas around the world to be stewards of the night. Places are awarded a designation through a rigorous application process that involves a thorough inventory, responsible lighting policies, and public education. Jenny Ward, who has been stargazing in the Greenville region for over 50 years, is leading the Dark Sky certification process for AMC. “Our planet, and the evolution of species on this planet, revolves around periods of dark and light,” Ward says. “It’s how people learned to survive—cycles of the moon, navigation of the stars. We lived our lives with that cycle of day and night. It hasn’t been until the last 100 years or so that we created a society that’s built around keeping the lights on all the time.”

Consider the impacts of lighting up the night. For plants and animals, the dark supports rhythms of reproduction, food hunting, sleep, and protection. Light pollution changes the habits of nocturnal animals, leaves prey more susceptible to predators, muddles migration patterns for birds, sea turtles, and butterflies who navigate by the stars and moon, and can even affect the seasonal cycle of deciduous trees. Artificial light at nighttime poses health risks to humans, too: when our circadian rhythm is disrupted we produce less of the health-inducing hormone melatonin, leaving us at higher risk for obesity, depression, sleep disorders, diabetes, and breast cancer among other issues.

The night sky inspired our ancestors’ forays into science, literature, art, religion, and philosophy. Now, according to Ward, 80 percent of people living in the world cannot see the Milky Way, and 99 percent of the U.S. population lives somewhere impacted by light pollution—which means that our newest generations are losing touch with our common and universal heritage. “We had one group of students from New York City,” Ward says. “They didn’t realize they had stars above New York. They didn’t know they existed everywhere.”

“We get so subconsciously used to human interference in our audiovisual realities,” says Tatko. “There are people who are afraid of the absence of those things. That feels like a big injustice, that we haven’t been able to empower them to embrace that level of discomfort. It feels like a taking of a right, in a way—the right to be in the dark.”

Luckily, there’s a quick and easy fix to the problem—all we have to do to preserve the night sky is switch off the lights.

Okay, it’s not quite that simple, but it’s close. Assessing and reducing outdoor light impact at home, spreading the word, advocating for dark skies in your community, becoming an AMC or International Dark-Sky Association (IDA) member, and participating in dark sky research as a citizen scientist are all great ways to get involved. The nonprofitDark Sky Maine (darkskymaine.com) organizes seasonal “Star Parties” that connect people to the night sky, and educates communities on safe and efficient lighting. “Take a look at where you’re living, and where you’re working. Make those simple changes,” Ward says. “Dark sky lighting is beautiful light. It’s easy on your eyes. It’s still doing the task you’re asking it to do. It’s less consumptive, and less costly.” The IDA’s website (darksky.org) offers resources for assessing inefficient, poorly installed, and unnecessary outdoor lighting at your home and workplace and installing dark-sky-friendly lighting—products that keep lights pointed at the ground, light only their intended target, reduce harmful blue-rich white light, and use less energy. “It makes sense now in a way it didn’t a little bit ago,” Ward says, citing high energy costs. As part of their Dark Sky Park designation, AMC has partnered with the North Maine Woods association and the Katahdin Ironworks and Hedgehog checkpoints to install dark-sky-compliant lighting. They’ve also collaborated with the town of Greenville to change 188 streetlights, which saved the town over $10,000 in the first year. This June at their annual town meeting, Greenville voted to make changes in their signage and outdoor lighting ordinances to align with dark sky guidelines.

But why stop there? “Wouldn’t it be great to have a state that recognized the value of dark skies?” Ward says. “That would be incredibly cool, to be a dark sky state.”

Tonight, as I stand under the last exceptionally dark skies east of the Mississippi, it all feels very personal. The times I have felt most deeply connected to the world and my place within it are the times I have been sitting or walking under a starry sky. Growing up, stargazing was something my family did to come together at the end of the day. I remember dark skies and blazing shooting stars, laughter, gasps of awe. As people around us built bigger houses and developed the land, the stars became muffled by patio lights, and inside me bloomed a deep grief. We had forgotten how to sit still and watch the sky without thumbing through yesterday’s photos. How to notice the birds gone quiet, the night rushing in.

It hasn’t occurred to me until now that this is reversible.

“If we don’t have the stage, the show can’t go on,” Tatko says. “We are conserving this space, and this stage, and trying to do right by it. It feels like the best we can do is carry forward in some way, so that other people will find value in it in ways that we may not understand right now.” As he talks about future generations, I’m thinking too about what it is to be young under the night sky. How stars remind us of our own insignificance. How that can be a relief.

Last night, a couple miles south of here, at Horseshoe Pond, we watched, breathless and hopeful, as the first constellations appeared on the southern horizon. We stayed up for hours, shivering in the cold, to watch the night sky come alive with stars. It’s cloudy tonight, and warm. The black flies are biting, and my eyelids are growing heavy. But I am aware of the privilege I have in this moment, and the people who made it possible. Soon, I will crawl into my tent and sleep, as the world falls comfortably dark.

STARGAZING TIPS

Follow these suggestions from AMC’s Jenny Ward to make the most of your stargazing experience.

  1. Check the weather for clear skies before you go.
  2. Check the phases of the moon. The closer you are to a new moon, the darker the sky will be, and the brighter the stars.
  3. Scope out the darkest areas using a light pollution map—see lightpollutionmap.info— and pick a park, hilltop, or body of water with a large horizon that will give you an unobstructed view of the sky.
  4. Bring a blanket or a chair. A telescope or a pair of binoculars can be handy for taking a closer look.
  5. Use a headlamp or a flashlight with a red light setting—it’ll take your eyes less time to adjust to the dark.
  6. Download star-viewing apps that help you identify different constellations.
  7. If you’re uncomfortable in the dark, explore your star spot during the daytime so it feels familiar. Venture out at dusk when it’s still light. Go with a friend. A lot of people are afraid of the dark, but this is something you can overcome—and it’s worth it!

BECOMING AN ASTROPHOTOGRAPHER

Getting a clear picture of the night sky is challenging, but it can be done with a well-chosen location, the right camera settings, and some patience! Here are a few pro tips from photographer Andy Gagne.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

• Digital camera with manual mode
• Wide-angle lens
• Tripod

TIP 1:

Location, location, location! Choose a stargazing spot with minimal light pollution—away from city lights and during the new moon. Scouting your location ahead of time during the day will make creating a composition in the dark much easier. Apps such as PhotoPills and SkyView are great tools for gathering information about the night sky, including the current phase of the moon, sunrise and sunset times, and where and when the Milky Way will be visible.

TIP 2:

Set up your camera for success. Here’s how to adjust your camera settings—shutter, aperture, and ISO—to allow optimal light into your camera’s sensor:

With your camera on a tripod, set a long exposure (e.g., 15 seconds). Be careful not
to touch or move your camera during the exposure. Even the gentle press of the shutter will blur the image. To avoid this, use a remote trigger or set your camera to a 5-second timer. If you set your exposure for too long, you’ll notice star trails from the Earth’s rotation.

• Use the widest (lowest number) aperture your lens will allow (e.g., F1.4, F1.8, F2.8, F4).

• In a normal daylight setting there’s enough light for you to use a low ISO. However, at night you’ll likely need to have the ISO at a higher setting than normal (e.g., 1000–6400). Your camera’s sensor is more sensitive to light at a higher ISO, but if your ISO is too high you will notice “noise” or “grain” in your image. The lower the ISO, the better the quality. Experiment with your camera’s ISO to find the right balance.

• Set your camera to shoot in RAW format. RAW files are very large files that hold a lot of information, which will allow you to adjust and edit your photos as needed later on.

For crisp and focused stars, set your lens in manual mode to infinity. On most lenses there is an infinity symbol at the end of your focus ring.

Depending on your camera and lens, your settings will vary. Getting it right will take some trial and error.

COMPOSITION

Think about what makes an interesting photograph. How can you frame the stars with trees, water, mountains, or other landscape features around you? Perhaps you have outdoor gear with you, such as a paddle, a boat, or a tent lit up from the inside. You can even get a friend to stand very still in the frame, and light them for a few seconds during the shot with a headlamp or flashlight.

Point your camera toward the south to catch the Milky Way, and enjoy the magic of the night sky!

7 STUNNING PLACES TO STARGAZE ACROSS MAINE

  1. Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, Millinocket
  2. AMC Maine Woods International Dark Sky Park, Greenville (The Dark Festival: October 16–23, 2022)
  3. Acadia National Park (Night Sky Festival: September 21–25, 2022)
  4. Coastal Rivers Conservation Trust, Damariscotta
  5. Cobscook Bay, Dennysville
  6. Aroostook County
  7. Blueberry Pond Observatory, Pownal

RAINY DAYS AT THE SOUTHWORTH PLANETARIUM

Can’t see the stars because of weather? The University of Southern Maine’s Southworth Planetarium offers shows Monday through Saturday for children and adults. Tag along on the GAIA Space Mission, walk on the moon, romp with dinosaurs, or celebrate solstice at Stonehenge. If you’re curious about astronomy, you can get your questions answered by staff astronomer Edward Herrick-Gleason or sign up for the Daily Astronomer at usm.maine.edu/planet.

CELESTIAL EVENTS TO WATCH FOR

PERSEID METEOR SHOWER | AUGUST 11–12, 2022
This highly anticipated annual meteor shower lights up the sky at a rate of 50 to 100 meteors per hour. This year, you’ll need to set an alarm for 2 to 3 hours before dawn because the Perseid’s peak coincides with the full moon on August 12th—the last of three supermoons in 2022.

ORIONID METEOR SHOWER | OCTOBER 21–22, 2022
Originating from dust grains left behind by the world-famous Halley’s Comet, the Orionid occurs annually from October 2 to November 7, peaking this year on the night of October 21 and in the early morning of the 22nd. A crescent moon will leave the sky plenty dark for the show.

TOTAL LUNAR ECLIPSE | NOVEMBER 8, 2022
Mainers who wake up between 2 a.m. and 4 a.m. EST on the morning of November 8 will be rewarded with a full eclipse from start to finish! The moon will gradually grow darker, eventually turning a reddish hue. According to NASA, this rosy color occurs because during the eclipse the only sunlight that can reach the moon has to pass through Earth’s dusty atmosphere first. The cloudier the atmosphere, the redder the moon.

GEMINID METEOR SHOWER | DECEMBER 13–14, 2022
Bundle up and head outside to gaze toward the constellation Gemini. Peak viewing hours for this meteor shower—which rivals the Perseids in meteors per hour—will be before midnight on December 13 and between 3 a.m. and dawn on December 14.

QUADRANTID METEOR SHOWER | JANUARY 3–4, 2023
Though the nearly full moon may block out most of the Quadrantid action in 2023, viewers after midnight may still catch a good show. With up to 40 meteors per hour at its peak, the Quadrantid is worth keeping an eye on.

NORTHERN LIGHTS | DECEMBER–FEBRUARY
If you don’t mind the cold and are willing to drop everything to get in the car at a moment’s notice, Maine is a good place to see the elusive aurora borealis. Be on the lookout for solar activity alerts through NOAA’s Northern Lights Forecast or SpaceWeatherLive, and when the conditions are right, head north to Aroostook National Wildlife Refuge, the AMC Maine Woods International Dark Sky Park, Sugarloaf Mountain, or Sebago, Moosehead, or Schoodic Lake. Midnight to 3 a.m. during the long, dark nights of winter is the best time to see the northern lights.

LOOKING AHEAD: MAINE’S FIRST TOTAL SOLAR ECLIPSE SINCE 1963 WILL OCCUR ON APRIL 8, 2024
Grab a pair of eclipse glasses, because Maine is directly in the path of totality! Hot spots for viewing the eclipse include the Rangeley Lakes region, Moosehead Lake, Baxter State Park, Jackman, Caribou, Lincoln, Millinocket, and Presque Isle. Can’t travel? No worries! You’ll be able to see a near total eclipse from most places in the state. This won’t happen again in Maine until 2079.

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Insider Tips for Visiting Belfast https://www.themainemag.com/insider-tips-for-visiting-belfast/ Tue, 02 Aug 2022 00:49:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63567 GET MOVING To start your morning off, stop in at Downshift Coffee on Main Street where Dunckel recommends ordering a cappuccino and sitting next to the window to watch the world go by. If you’re an avid cyclist or looking

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GET MOVING

To start your morning off, stop in at Downshift Coffee on Main Street where Dunckel recommends ordering a cappuccino and sitting next to the window to watch the world go by. If you’re an avid cyclist or looking to get into biking, be sure to check out CG Bikes, a bike shop at the back of Downshift that operates as a separate business. Whether you need a tune-up or just want to rent some wheels for the day, this is a one-stop shop to get you out on the roads and trails. Dunckel notes that visitors can bike along the waterfront paths if they want a more leisurely (albeit pedestrian-heavy) ride, or can challenge themselves by taking a spin on the newly built mountain bike trails close to downtown. If you prefer to keep both of your feet squarely on the ground, Dunckel recommends checking out the self-guided historic walking tours around town, managed by the Belfast Historical Society and Museum. Featuring a series of historic houses, churches, and commercial spaces, these tours are free to the public—visitors just need to pick up a map from the museum and walk the town at their own pace, finding an informative plaque at each destination. “It’s a great way to see the town and learn about the history,” says Dunckel. Another must on Dunckel’s list is to catch a ride on the Back and Forth—a traditional wooden lobster boat that offers various cruise options from Belfast Harbor—to Young’s Lobster Pound, where, if you BYOB, you can enjoy the state’s official sandwich with a tasty beverage while you take in the ocean views.

EAT YOUR HEART OUT

Consider yourself a foodie? You’re in luck: Belfast is known for its top-notch dining options. One of the most popular spots in town is Chase’s Daily (“Or, if you’re like me, Chase’s Twice Daily!” jokes Dunckel), a bakery, cafe, market, and art gallery that focuses on locally grown and sourced food, including produce brought in daily from a farm that is owned and operated by the Chase family. Dunckel also suggests tracking down The Moody Dog, a food truck/hot dog stand where you can order a gourmet hot dog, salads, and cupcakes among other delicacies whipped up fresh each day. If you’ve got little ones along for the ride who need some motivation to get moving, be sure to check out the Chocolate Drop Candy Shop and Wild Cow Creamery, two ice cream shops that have gotten the seal of approval from Dunckel’s children (who love the peppermint-flavored frozen treat in particular). If you’re in the mood for an adult beverage, look no further than Marshall Wharf Brewing Company, a community hub that briefly closed in 2019, only to be reopened a year and a half later by Dunckel and her husband, Dan Waldron, who wanted to carry on the business’s legacy in the Belfast community. With a friendly atmosphere, a waterfront beer garden, and over 30 beers on tap, here you’re sure to find a drink to fit the mood. If you’re looking for something with more of a pub atmosphere, check out Rollie’s Bar + Grill, where Dunckel and Waldron go when they want to watch a soccer or football game and catch up with friends from around town.

SLOW DOWN AND ENJOY

For visitors who like to move at a leisurely pace, wandering along Main Street never disappoints. Dunckel suggests checking out Brambles, a garden supply shop where you can find everything from seasonal seeds and plants to furniture to spruce up your outdoor spaces. Another of Dunckel’s favorites is Out on a Whimsey Toys, a toy store where adults and children alike can get lost for hours while letting their imaginations run wild. If you’re in town on a Friday between the hours of 9 a.m. and 1 p.m., the Belfast Farmers’ Market (located in Waterfall Arts on High Street April through October and in Aubuchon Greenhouse on Northport Avenue November through March) is always a treat, whether you have a shopping list or just want to browse. Dunckel notes that Maine-ly Poultry is one of her favorite vendors to visit, offering a selection of fresh chicken, chicken pies, and eggs that are hard to beat. If it’s raining or you’re in town for the evening, pay a visit to The Colonial Theatre, the town’s three-screen movie theater that has been operating as an entertainment venue for 110 years. In addition to its rotation of movies, the theater is occasionally used as a live music venue. Is it one of those warm summer evenings when you just want to lie on the grass and look at the sky? Dunckel suggests checking out Belfast Summer Nights, a series of live concerts from June through early September that take place out on the town green overlooking the harbor. The best part? They’re free and open to the public. Grab a blanket, pack a picnic dinner, and relax into an idyllic summer evening on the Maine coast.

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Mount Desert Island in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/mount-desert-island-in-48-hours-2/ Tue, 02 Aug 2022 00:48:36 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63566 FridayLuxury digs and dining You may be headed to Maine’s largest island to explore its diverse ecology while conquering the craggy, sometimes heart-pounding trails of Acadia National Park, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t also indulge in a bit of

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The writer’s daughter plays in the lapping waves at Sand Beach.

Friday
Luxury digs and dining

You may be headed to Maine’s largest island to explore its diverse ecology while conquering the craggy, sometimes heart-pounding trails of Acadia National Park, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t also indulge in a bit of Maine luxury. Splurge for a stay at The Claremont Hotel, a circa-1884 hotel tucked into a quiet corner of Somes Sound, the east coast’s only fjord. This superbly stylish Rusticator-era rambler recently underwent a full renovation led by hotelier Tim Harrington, the partner and creative director of Kennebunkport Resort Collection. Expect the kind of treatment one gets at the grand dame hotels of Paris and Gstaad—champagne placed in hand upon check-in, en-suite fireplaces and private decks, and multiple nooks with Sister Parish wall coverings, sumptuous armchairs dressed in William Morris and Pierre Frey fabrics, and an endless supply of heavy art books. Once you’ve unpacked, head to Harry’s Bar, the hotel’s moody, nautical cocktail bar, and enjoy a predinner gimlet on the main house porch with a view of the moored and bobbing sailboats in the harbor and the mountains beyond.

For dinner, go no further than Little Fern, just a few steps down the hall. Make a reservation upon check-in, as you’re sure to be competing with MDI’s classy set for a table. Order the rich seafood pappardelle paired with a French pinot, and be sure to save room for sunset s’mores at the firepit down by the water’s edge.

Saturday
Acadia appetites

Get going early to be sure to hit the most popular spots in Acadia National Park. Buttercup Bakery, the Claremont’s on-site coffee and sweet shop, opens at 7 a.m. and provides complimentary coffee for guests. It’s also a great place to grab a to-go pastry or breakfast bar. Planning to sea kayak, hike, and rock climb in one day—yes, you can do all three on MDI—and need more fuel? Head back to Little Fern, where you’ll find frittatas assembled in delicate layers of potato, egg, and crème fraîche, and chocolate chip pancakes served with a side of warm chocolate sauce and Maine maple syrup.

Stick your preprinted park pass on your dashboard and head to the first national park east of the Mississippi. Sand Beach, a rare sandy strand tucked into a cove between granite-studded shores, is a great place to start. Located at the beginning of the 27-mile Park Loop Road, from here you can drive down the road’s eastern, coastal section—slowly: you’ll want to take in the scenery—to get to Jordan Pond. Reservations can be made in person starting at 10:30 a.m., and service begins at 11. This historic stop has been famous for its popovers and tea since the late 1800s, and it provides an unbeatable view of the The Bubbles. Feel like getting to work? The 1.5-mile hike beginning at the Bubbles Divide parking lot is a quick way to access the iconic North Bubble, South Bubble, and Bubble Rock. More into the idea of a run? The trail circling Jordan Pond’s pristine waters is just a little over three miles and makes for a scenic, mostly flat sprint.

There are countless trails to check out each time you visit Acadia, but don’t miss the park’s famous Carriage Roads. The 45 miles of rustic, gravel-lined byways were a gift from John D. Rockefeller Jr., who, as a dedicated horseman, wanted to be able to travel motor-free through the mountains and valleys of the park. To cover as much ground as possible, rent mountain bikes from Acadia Bike or book a horse-drawn carriage from Carriages of Acadia.

Take a break from your sporting adventures and set off for some culinary ones. Abel’s Lobster on Route 3 is located on a tranquil wooded lot on the edge of Somes Sound and was a finalist in three categories of this month’s Food and Drink Reader’s Choice Awards (page 76), including best outdoor dining, best view, and best lobster roll—though the fried clams are also hard to beat. If there’s a bit of a chill beneath the fir trees, head inside, where wall-to-wall windows still offer prime views.

Started with oysters and clams and want to finish with some fowl? Peter Trout’s Tavern + Inn is a Southwest Harbor staple known for their spicy fried chicken sandwiches served with house-made slaw and thick slabs of salty fried potatoes. Order the Caesar salad, which comes with generous chunks of bacon, along with one of the many local Maine beers either on draft or in a can, and challenge your company to a bar game or puzzle while you wait for your meal (the skillet fried chicken takes 35 minutes, but it’s worth it).

Sunday
Bar Harbor and boats

If you have a bucket list, wake up before dawn and drive (with your reservation) up Cadillac Mountain, the highest point in Acadia, to watch the sunrise. To time it right, keep in mind that it takes approximately 30 minutes to drive up Cadillac Summit Road, park, and walk to a viewing spot. The experience gives you bragging rights and is an awe-inspiring start to the day.

Next, it’s off to nearby Bar Harbor. Set along Frenchman Bay, the charming town is known as the gateway to Acadia, which means it is one of the most visited villages in Maine. It’s also one of the prettiest. Grab a coffee from The Independent Cafe on Main Street, and pop in to one of the many local shops lining your route to the ocean, where you’ll find the entrance to Shore Path at the Town Pier next to Agamont Park. Constructed in the 1880s, the walking path traces the eastern side of the island and offers prime views of the water—and into the inner courts of the many high-end hotels there.

To see Acadia from the sea, book a tour on one of the boats at Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company. For a shorter, more kid-friendly ride, go for the seal and lobster tour, where you can learn more about Maine lobstering industry while the crew hauls up traps—you’ll see some crabs, too. The boat will make a stop next to Eastern Egg Rock, where sleepy seals lounge and hobble across the stones beneath Egg Rock Lighthouse. If you’ve come in June or July, you may be lucky enough to spot some puffin families. Owned by the state and managed by the Puffin Project, Eastern Egg Rock is the world’s first reestablished seabird colony and is one of the most-visited puffin islands.

Back on land and before heading home, don’t miss one of the premium scoops from Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream, which you can enjoy beside the Bar Harbor town gazebo. If it’s a sunny afternoon in the summertime, you may just find the Big Moose Contra Dance Band jamming with their fiddles, guitars, and banjos beneath the rafters, a sweet sendoff to a lively weekend.

The Batson River Fish Camp at The Claremont is perfect for a midday cocktail or a battered taco.

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8 Iconic Maine Places for Out-of-State Guests https://www.themainemag.com/8-iconic-maine-places-to-take-your-out-of-state-guests/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 18:15:44 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63568 Do you have friends or family coming to town and you want to show off the best that Maine has to offer, but you’re at a loss about where to begin? Take a deep breath—we’ve got your back. It can

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A lighthouse visit should always be on the docket—and there are many to choose from along Maine’s rugged coastline—but Portland Head Light in Cape Elizabeth (just a few miles from downtown Portland) is the most photographed in the world.

Do you have friends or family coming to town and you want to show off the best that Maine has to offer, but you’re at a loss about where to begin? Take a deep breath—we’ve got your back. It can be overwhelming to decide what to do when playing tour guide, especially if you have a tight time frame. To help you out, we’ve broken it down into simple categories, depending on the type of guest you have coming to stay.

FOR SIGHTSEERS

Of the numerous lighthouses in Maine, Portland Head Light is one of the most photogenic. You can’t go wrong if you take your guests to any lighthouse along the coast (the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse was a close second on our list!), but Portland Head Light comes out on top for several reasons, including its proximity to Portland, its location in Fort Williams Park, and the rock formation around the light, which is prone to spectacular and dazzling displays of crashing waves. Give your guests a taste of the coast without straying too far from the city, and then head into Portland to keep the tour going.

FOR CITY SLICKERS

If your guests are more comfortable in a city environment but still want to lean in to some Maine traditions, the L.L.Bean campus in Freeport is your one-stop shop. A small town with a population of roughly 9,000 in the last census, Freeport is not considered a city by any means. However, the outdoor gear store’s sprawling campus alone—complete with a green where live concerts and yoga classes take place in the summer—is enough to make an urbanite want to pitch a tent in the woods and cook over an open fire. Open 24 hours a day, the L.L.Bean Flagship store is fun to visit whether you’re on a shopping mission or just browsing. Plus, getting a picture with the enormous Bean boot by the entrance is something of a rite of passage.

FOR OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS

Do you have friends who love to run, hike, and bike? Exploring the extensive network of carriage roads at Acadia National Park might just be the multitasking adventure that you’re looking for. With over 45 miles of beautifully maintained trails originally built by John D. Rockefeller Jr. to be used for horseback riding, today the carriage trails are trafficked only by hikers, bikers, and, yes, horse-drawn carriages. While this trip will require more planning than others (such as reserving bike rentals, if necessary, in addition to navigating the traffic of Bar Harbor and the park itself), it will pay off big time. Your guests will no doubt be plotting a trip back as soon as possible.

FOR ART AFICIONADOS

If your visitors are the types who frequently seek out galleries and museums, you can’t go wrong with a day trip to Rockland to visit the Farnsworth Art Museum and the Center for Maine Contemporary Art (CMCA). Home to the nation’s largest collection of works by sculptor Louise Nevelson as well as an entire center dedicated to the Wyeth family and their extensive legacy of art in Maine, the Farnsworth is the ideal spot to introduce viewers to Maine’s rich artistic history. Housed in a building designed by internationally renowned architect Toshiko Mori, the CMCA continues the dialogue started by the Farnsworth Museum, showing how contemporary art in Maine is thriving—and evolving.

FOR NATURE LOVERS

Are your visitors ready to venture out into the great outdoors to see the flora and fauna of the Pine Tree State? Plan a trip to the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, a 295-acre garden in Boothbay that specializes in plants native to Maine. With numerous trails to explore that wind through features including everything from fountains to intricately carved sculptures to a meditation garden, there’s something for everyone to enjoy. Plus, in early 2021 Danish artist Thomas Dambo installed five giant troll statues made from recycled and reclaimed wood throughout the forested sections of the gardens as a part of a permanent installation called Guardians of the Seeds, which serves as a commentary on conservation. When your visitors happen upon one, it will make them feel like they’ve wandered into a fairy tale.

FOR THE BEER ENTHUSIAST

Did your guests come to Maine with the beer scene in mind? Of the 165 breweries (and counting) in the state, Oxbow Brewing Company in Newcastle and the Oxbow Beer Garden in Oxford are perfect if you want both good beer and an adventure. The brewery’s original location in Newcastle is home to a cozy tasting room filled with board games, an expansive deck overlooking a pond, and a series of trails through the woods, complete with custom-made drink rests on trees throughout. If you’re looking for both dinner and beers, the beer garden in Oxford is the place for you. With a menu of wood-fired pizza, plenty of outdoor seating, and numerous firepits to gather around, we can’t think of a better way to enjoy a summer evening in Vacationland.

FOR ADVENTURE SEEKERS

If your visitors want to get their adrenaline pumping and you’ve got time to invest, why not give them a quintessential Maine experience by booking a moose tour with Northeast Whitewater in Greenville? Maine’s best known (and most dangerous) mammal, moose are easy to see if you know where to go—and what precautions to take. The Northeast Whitewater team will take you out into the wilderness (via canoe or van) to find these elusive creatures and admire them from afar.

FOR THE BURGEONING FOODIE

Are you short on time and want to give your guest the Maine experience in the most efficient way possible? The Lobster Shack at Two Lights State Park in Cape Elizabeth is the answer to your prayers. Taking a trip to the Lobster Shack, perched along the coast directly next to the Cape Elizabeth Lighthouse, guarantees you will get your fill of both lobster (whether in a roll or whole—your choice!) and coastal views. Plus, if you happen to go on a foggy day, you’ll experience the power of the station’s foghorn firsthand.

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The Best Maine Islands to Visit this Summer https://www.themainemag.com/the-best-maine-islands-to-visit-this-summer/ Tue, 05 Jul 2022 15:53:58 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63319 As Mainers are fond of reminding visitors, our proud little state technically has 3,478 miles of coastline—more than California, when you count all the tidal inlets, coves, bays, and of course, the islands. By a rough estimate, there are approximately

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As Mainers are fond of reminding visitors, our proud little state technically has 3,478 miles of coastline—more than California, when you count all the tidal inlets, coves, bays, and of course, the islands. By a rough estimate, there are approximately 4,600 isles off the coast of Maine—some inhabited with year-round and summer residents, some home only to sea birds and the occasional seal—not to mention the innumerable islands dotting the nearly 6,000 lakes between the New Hampshire and Canadian borders. Ready to shove off from the mainland? Hop on a ferry to visit one of these Maine islands for a proper summer adventure:

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

VINALHAVEN | PENOBSCOT BAY

Located about 12 miles off the coast of Rockland, the larger of the two Fox Islands is accessed by a 75-minute ferry ride that deposits visitors right near downtown. Marked by numerous coves, beaches, and two former granite quarries that are now swimming holes, there are plenty of opportunities to cool off. Check out the various parks, preserves, and hiking trails to get a sense of the land and to catch impressive ocean views, or stay in town to grab a bite and enjoy a slice of the local culture.

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

MT. KINEO | MOOSEHEAD LAKE

Attached to the mainland by a narrow peninsula, Mount Kineo is only accessible via boat. Hitch a ride on the Kineo shuttle, which takes you from the docks of the Rockwood Public Landing directly to the trailhead of Mount Kineo State Park. Marked by 700-foot cliffs that look out across Maine’s largest lake, the mountain has roughly 6 miles of hiking trails ranging from .9 to 2.2 miles to get to the summit.

BAILEY | CASCO BAY

If you’re not ready to take to the seas, consider starting off with a trip to Bailey Island. Accessible via bridge from Harpswell, Bailey is an easy summer day trip in the midcoast region. Travelling all the way to Lands End, the rocky beach at the very tip of the isle, pays off with sweeping views of Casco Bay. Other highlights include the Giant’s Stairs trail, a half-mile walk featuring a rock formation that resembles a large staircase, and Mackerel Cove, which offers plenty of opportunities to take photos of the picturesque working waterfront.

Photo: Matt Cosby

MONHEGAN | MUSCONGUS BAY

To get to Monhegan, take your pick of three different ferries, from Boothbay Harbor, Port Clyde, or New Harbor. Located 10 miles off the coast, this little island measures barely 1 square mile. Make the island your home for the weekend with a reservation at one of the inns, hike along the beautiful seaside trails, pay a visit to the lighthouse and the Monhegan Museum of Art and History (the former lighthouse keeper’s lodging), and try to catch a glimpse of members of the Monhegan Artists’ Residency at work along the shore.

Photo: Jeff Roberts

PEAKS | CASCO BAY

The most populated island in Casco Bay, Peaks is a popular day trip destination from Portland, especially for those in the mood to bike. Either bring your own or rent one from Brad’s Bike Rental and Repair, just a short walk from the ferry dock. Pedal the 3.7-mile island loop, stopping at Sandy Beach for a dip in the ocean or Cairn Beach, where you can build rock towers and catch a glimpse of a lighthouse or two.

Photo: Daniel Orr

FRYE | SEBAGO LAKE

A short ferry ride from Raymond Neck on Sebago Lake, Frye Island is a must-visit for summertime lake enthusiasts. Watch the boats go by while you dine at the waterfront Frye’s Leap Cafe, stop by the market for essentials or the ice cream window for sweet summer treats, and play a round of golf at the 9-hole course of Frye Island Golf Club. Be sure to take advantage of the island’s many beaches.

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Insider Tips for Visiting Norway https://www.themainemag.com/insider-tips-for-visiting-norway/ Tue, 05 Jul 2022 15:35:58 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63308 Due to its proximity to Pennesseewassee Lake and Maine’s western mountains, Norway has long been a stopover for both summer and winter excursions. At one point it was even known as the “Snowshoe Capital of the World.” We spoke with

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Photo: Emily Delamater

Due to its proximity to Pennesseewassee Lake and Maine’s western mountains, Norway has long been a stopover for both summer and winter excursions. At one point it was even known as the “Snowshoe Capital of the World.” We spoke with Sam Masabny, co-owner of The Woods Maine, a luxury treehouse getaway, and of The Woods Maine Shop retail store to get her tips for visiting her adopted hometown.

WHET YOUR APPETITE
To get a feel for the close-knit community in Norway, Masabny recommends first checking out the various local food options. In addition to being a hub for breakfast and lunch, Cafe Nomad on Main Street serves as a town gathering place complete with a large outdoor table. “After a few years of its being gone due to COVID, it’s really special to have that [table] back.” Across the street is Norway Pizza Exchange, which opened in the former location of Ari’s Pizza in June, and is already popular due to their high-quality pizza ingredients and grab-and-go gourmet sandwiches and salads. Moving east down Main Street brings you to Italian restaurant Dolce Amici (where Masabny recommends the affogato), the grilled cheese food truck Mainely Melt, and 290 Main Street, which hosts a trivia night every Tuesday. Norway Brewing Company is another staple in town, known for its wide range of craft beer and “stellar” brunch menu. Originally from Philadelphia, Masabny notes that Smokin’ Dave’s Backyard BBQ and Grill has a steak and cheese sandwich (“What I call a cheesesteak”) that lives up to her Pennsylvania standards. For visitors aiming to spend the day on the water, the Lake Store is a one-stop shop where you can get everything from pastries to produce to other odds and ends you might need on a day trip.

HIT THE SHOPS
The numerous shops and boutiques of down-town Norway cater to both casual browsers and shoppers on a mission. Masabny’s The Woods Maine Shop on Main Street offers a curated collection of goods ideal for “lake life, camp life, and home life,” and you’re sure to find something there to take with you. Next door is Brick and Mortar, which carries an eclectic collection of housewares, gardening essentials, and furniture, and Handmade Maine, which specializes in Maine-made products and carries its own brand of hand soaps manufactured on-site. Green Machine Bike Shop is a must-visit for outdoor enthusiasts, with everything from gear for a day hike to a selection of mountain bikes, and they have technicians on hand to help you hit the trails. If you’re in the market for one-of-a-kind items to fill your space with, Masabny recommends Widdershins Antiques, where she sourced numerous pieces for The Woods Maine tree-house. For craftier visitors, dual yarn and wine shop Fiber and Vine is the perfect place to buy a knitting pattern, take a class, or purchase a bottle of wine from owner Kimberly Hamlin’s curated selection. Plus, every first Friday of each month the shop reopens in the evening for wine tastings.

GET OUTSIDE
Ready to take advantage of the great outdoors? Masabny suggests starting with the Western Foothills Land Trust (WFLT), which manages over 9,000 acres of preserves in the greater Oxford Hills area, with 34 miles of trails for hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, and snow-shoeing. Among Masabny’s favorite areas managed by WFLT are Shepard’s Farm Preserve, which has a long, beautiful board-walk that wraps around a marsh, Roberts Farm Preserve, which offers free Nordic ski and snowshoe “rentals” in the winter, and Noyes Mountain Preserve, which features 3 miles of trails and 1,500-foot elevation gain that provides gorgeous lake views, especially during foliage season.

STAY IN THE LOOP
Masabny notes that, while these recommendations are an excellent start to Norway, they barely scratch the surface. To learn more about the goings on in the little mountain town, follow local nonprofit Norway Downtown on Facebook.

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