Due to its proximity to Pennesseewassee Lake and Maine’s western mountains, Norway has long been a stopover for both summer and winter excursions. At one point it was even known as the “Snowshoe Capital of the World.” We spoke with Sam Masabny, co-owner of The Woods Maine, a luxury treehouse getaway, and of The Woods Maine Shop retail store to get her tips for visiting her adopted hometown.

WHET YOUR APPETITE
To get a feel for the close-knit community in Norway, Masabny recommends first checking out the various local food options. In addition to being a hub for breakfast and lunch, Cafe Nomad on Main Street serves as a town gathering place complete with a large outdoor table. “After a few years of its being gone due to COVID, it’s really special to have that [table] back.” Across the street is Norway Pizza Exchange, which opened in the former location of Ari’s Pizza in June, and is already popular due to their high-quality pizza ingredients and grab-and-go gourmet sandwiches and salads. Moving east down Main Street brings you to Italian restaurant Dolce Amici (where Masabny recommends the affogato), the grilled cheese food truck Mainely Melt, and 290 Main Street, which hosts a trivia night every Tuesday. Norway Brewing Company is another staple in town, known for its wide range of craft beer and “stellar” brunch menu. Originally from Philadelphia, Masabny notes that Smokin’ Dave’s Backyard BBQ and Grill has a steak and cheese sandwich (“What I call a cheesesteak”) that lives up to her Pennsylvania standards. For visitors aiming to spend the day on the water, the Lake Store is a one-stop shop where you can get everything from pastries to produce to other odds and ends you might need on a day trip.

HIT THE SHOPS
The numerous shops and boutiques of down-town Norway cater to both casual browsers and shoppers on a mission. Masabny’s The Woods Maine Shop on Main Street offers a curated collection of goods ideal for “lake life, camp life, and home life,” and you’re sure to find something there to take with you. Next door is Brick and Mortar, which carries an eclectic collection of housewares, gardening essentials, and furniture, and Handmade Maine, which specializes in Maine-made products and carries its own brand of hand soaps manufactured on-site. Green Machine Bike Shop is a must-visit for outdoor enthusiasts, with everything from gear for a day hike to a selection of mountain bikes, and they have technicians on hand to help you hit the trails. If you’re in the market for one-of-a-kind items to fill your space with, Masabny recommends Widdershins Antiques, where she sourced numerous pieces for The Woods Maine tree-house. For craftier visitors, dual yarn and wine shop Fiber and Vine is the perfect place to buy a knitting pattern, take a class, or purchase a bottle of wine from owner Kimberly Hamlin’s curated selection. Plus, every first Friday of each month the shop reopens in the evening for wine tastings.

GET OUTSIDE
Ready to take advantage of the great outdoors? Masabny suggests starting with the Western Foothills Land Trust (WFLT), which manages over 9,000 acres of preserves in the greater Oxford Hills area, with 34 miles of trails for hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, and snow-shoeing. Among Masabny’s favorite areas managed by WFLT are Shepard’s Farm Preserve, which has a long, beautiful board-walk that wraps around a marsh, Roberts Farm Preserve, which offers free Nordic ski and snowshoe “rentals” in the winter, and Noyes Mountain Preserve, which features 3 miles of trails and 1,500-foot elevation gain that provides gorgeous lake views, especially during foliage season.

STAY IN THE LOOP
Masabny notes that, while these recommendations are an excellent start to Norway, they barely scratch the surface. To learn more about the goings on in the little mountain town, follow local nonprofit Norway Downtown on Facebook.

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The post Insider Tips for Visiting Norway appeared first on The Maine Mag.

Friday
The long drive north

Start your trip with a full tank of gas, a meticulously curated Spotify playlist, cold-brew coffee, and a selection of road snacks to keep you in good spirits during the (in our case 330-mile) drive north to the St. John Valley. The sprawling County has no shortage of interesting check-points, so plan some stops along the way.

Eventually you’ll find where the 1,908 miles of I-95 comes to an end, in the Canadian border-town of Houlton. Enjoy a scenic walk through Houlton Riverfront Park, where the picturesque Gateway Crossing footbridge leads you over the water toward a variety of restaurants and shops.

If it’s early enough, follow the scent of fresh-baked doughnuts to Sadie’s Bakery, a local favorite. Grab a molasses doughnut and take a walk down Main Street toward the market square. Pop your head into shops like The County Co-Op and Farm Store for more treats and handmade products. Country North Gifts is densely packed with rustic home goods and artisanal crafts, and you can spend a good amount of time exploring the narrow aisles and shelves of curios. For a little local culture, stop in to see a movie at Temple Cinema, one of the oldest operating theaters in Maine. The large marquee is hard to miss.

Back on the road, keep an eye out for the Maine Solar System Model, a scale replica of the planets that lines Route 1 from Houlton to Presque Isle. Feeling hungry? Northern Maine Brewing Company in Caribou can fix that. A popular brewpub with a variety of delicious microbrews (try the Windrower Wheat, a refreshing, light, and slightly spiced ale) as well as a menu of elevated pub fare. If you’re eager to get on with your drive and are looking for somewhere a little more casual, Burger Boy in Caribou is your spot. This retro drive-in is a popular seasonal stop in the County that slings burgers, fried seafood, and sundaes with the option to order from the drive-thru or to sit inside and admire the interior’s colorful murals.

Finally, check in at the Inn of Acadia in Madawaska, the perfect home base for your Acadian adventures. The large rooms are comfortable and tastefully decorated, with views of the St. John River and Canada beyond. Be sure to set up a reservation at the inn’s Voyager Lounge restaurant, or unwind after the long drive with a cocktail at the bar. The staff is knowledgeable about the area and eager to point you in the right direction for great trails, restaurants, and other activities.

Saturday
Ployes, parks, and poutine

Begin your morning with a visit to Misty Meadows Organic Farm, which is easy to spot: there’s a giant strawberry out front. This restaurant serves up farm-to-table fare from their own backyard, and the interior is decked out with local handmade crafts and gifts that you can purchase in the attached shop. If there’s a long wait for a table, take the opportunity to explore the gardens, feed the animals, or drool over the bakery case filled with home-made treats.

If you overindulged at breakfast, find the Four Seasons Trail Association just up the hill from the hotel. Built and maintained for the community almost entirely by volunteers, the impressive trail system runs over 250 acres and is multiuse depending on the season—Nordic skiing and snowshoeing in the winter and trail running, hiking, and mountain biking in the warmer months. Forgot your gear at home? The lodge has everything you need available for rent, as well as hot coffee, a warm fireplace, and plenty of tables where you can sit and enjoy the view of the mountains and woods beyond.

Another local favorite, Dolly’s Restaurant, sits just outside of Madawaska in the neighboring town of Frenchville—and much of the chatter you’ll overhear there will indeed be in French. The bustling diner serves up hearty Acadian classics like chicken stew with dumplings, generous stacks of buttered ployes, and poutine (pronounced poo-TSIN). On your way over, make sure to stop at the Madawaska Four Corners Park. This northeastern-most park is a destination for motorcyclists who have challenged themselves to visit the four corners of the United States. Rich in history, this unique park is worth a visit.

Located about half an hour down Route 1 from Madawaska, Fort Kent is a bustling little town of interest. Take the time to check out roadside attractions like the Blockhouse, a monument commemorating the Aroostook War, a bloodless dispute between the United States and the United Kingdom over the border between Canada and the USA. The replica fort is now a small museum open in the summer, where you can learn about the history of Acadian culture in the States. Fort Kent is also home to America’s First Mile, from which US Route 1 can be followed all the way to Key West, Florida. Nearby, check out the appropriately named First Mile Brewing Company for a variety of microbrews crafted on-site. Feeling peckish? Walk across the street to Swamp Buck Restaurant and Lounge, open seven days a week with a great surf and turf menu, from filet mignon to fried clams.

Jump back into the car and tune the radio to one of the various French Canadian broadcasts. Even if you can’t sing along, enjoy the opportunity to listen to some French-language tunes as you make the drive out of Fort Kent up to Fish River Falls Trail. The out-and-back hiking trail is an invigorating walk through the woods and across a grass airstrip to the Fish River, a Class IV rapid. The trail can be followed up and down the river, with many spots to stop and admire the view, but be sure to mind the slippery rocks near the riverbank.

Next, take the winding drive up Route 161 to Stockholm. The route will take you through sprawling potato fields under a wide stretch of sky unlike any other in Maine. As you leave the fields and enter the forested section of road, pay attention to the signs warning of moose in your path. In Stockholm, check out Anderson’s Store for grab-and-go pastries and sandwiches. If you remembered to call ahead for a reservation, stop in at Eureka Hall Restaurant for dinner and live music. The walls are adorned with merch, notes, and memorabilia from bands that have performed there, including some familiar names such as the Ghost of Paul Revere and Muddy Ruckus.

Sunday
Au revoir, Aroostook

If you’re driving back to Portland or anywhere further down the coast, it’s best to plan for an early start. The Inn of Acadia serves breakfast every day, so head up to the lounge and grab a hot cup of coffee and a made-to-order breakfast ploye, rolled up with your choice of apple, blue-berry, or strawberry filling. If you need a little more caffeine to make it home, just around the corner you’ll find a Tim Hortons, the border-land’s favored coffee shop.

On your way out of the St. John Valley, say goodbye to the Maine Tribute Moose in Van Buren, right by the border crossing. Take a close look—the life-size bronze sculpture is adorned with a variety of Maine symbols, including a bronze can of Moxie by the moose’s hooves.

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The post St. John Valley, Aroostook County in 48 Hours appeared first on The Maine Mag.

Glidden Point Oyster Farms

637 River Rd., Edgecomb
This shuck-your-own oyster market offers beer and wine and often has local vendors serving other food to enjoy on the outdoor patio. The farm also provides tours of the growing operation.

Scully Sea Products

707 River Rd., Edgecomb
Founder Barbara Scully has been growing oysters on the Damariscotta River for more than three decades, and the farm’s market offers several varieties of oysters, along with littleneck clams, steamers, lobsters, and prepared foods.

The HUB Farm Market + Oysteria

1005 Bristol Rd., Bristol
The tasting room and market for Pemaquid Oyster Company, one of the state’s oldest oyster farms, also sells Waldostone Farm’s bloody Mary mixes and mignonettes as well as other local seafood and grocery items.

The Great Salt Bay Oyster Company

321 Mills Rd., Newcastle
This farm supplies oysters to restaurants and retailers up and down Maine’s coast, but you can also purchase them directly from the farm.

Damariscotta River Cruises

40 Main St., Damariscotta
Learn about oysters while exploring the Damariscotta River by boat with the Oyster Farms and Seal Watching Tour or the Oyster and Wine Tasting Cruise, or just enjoy freshly shucked oysters and drinks on a sunset cruise.

Shuck Station Raw Bar

68 Main St., Newcastle
This full-service restaurant offers multiple oyster varieties along with fresh local seafood, beer, wine, and cocktails and offers tours of its farm, Blackstone Point Oyster Farm.

Shuck Farther

To expand your oyster tour beyond the Damariscotta River, visit the Maine Oyster Trail’s website for guides to other regions and to sign up for the Maine Oyster Passport to win prizes for checking out locations around the state.
maineoystertrail.com

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The post A Damariscotta River Oyster Tour appeared first on The Maine Mag.

ON THE WATER

Sebago is the heavyweight lake around these parts, bordered by six towns—Casco, Naples, Raymond, Sebago, Standish, and Windham. But smaller lakes, ponds, and rivers also abound, as do countless marinas and outfitters. Save a full day (or longer) for Sebago Lake State Park; you’ll want to lavish plenty of attention on its sandy beaches, hiking trails, and campsites for tents and RVs. There are boat launches, too, and scads of picnic spots. Sebago is huge for salmon and trout fishing, and experts such as Sebago Lake Fishing Charters and Tours in Raymond are ready to outfit and guide you. Or spend a day in Naples, where the Causeway is ground zero for everything from pontoon boat rentals and waterski lessons to paddleboarding, river boat rides, and gin and tonics on the deck of Rick’s Cafe at sunset.

BREAK FOR REFRESHMENTS

Don’t let the name’s gratuitous e’s fool you: Gary’s Olde Towne Tavern in Naples is the real deal for solid staples like mac ’n’ cheese and steak tips. Likewise, the Standard Gastropub in Bridgton slings above-standard (and filling) fare, including their house burger and a killer house-smoked brisket sandwich. For an adventure-meets-dining jaunt, catch a public ferry or private boat to Frye Island in the middle of Sebago Lake and head to Frye’s Leap General Store and Cafe midday—bloody Marys with bacon-infused vodka are a go-to—and play cornhole while you watch kids (and some grown-ups) jump off a huge rock into the water.

ON DRY LAND

There’s so much activity off the water around here, you can leave the swimsuit at home if you like and instead opt to hike the Pleasant Mountain trail network (home to Shawnee Peak). Its treks are mostly moderate in difficulty; the Ledges Trail can be done in under two hours and rewards hikers with beautiful views of Moose Pond. For something more horizontal, walk the flat first 1.5 miles of the Sebago to Sea Trail that starts in South Windham. Rather swap rustication for refinement? Book a stay with Point Sebago Resort in Casco, and you’ll be in a lakeside lap of luxury— with a marina, sandy beach, all-day childcare programs, and an 18-hole championship golf course at your disposal. And when that (almost) inevitable rainy day comes along, make for Magic Lantern Movie Theater in Bridgton. Dating back to the 1930s, it’s been completely renovated and now includes a tavern. Oh, and it’s also rumored to be a good place for a sighting of Stephen King, who’s said to frequent the vintage gem.

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The post A Day in the Sebago Lakes Region appeared first on The Maine Mag.

PEAKS ISLAND

A 15-minute ride from the Portland ferry terminal, Peaks is the most populated island, with about 3,000 residents come summertime. Once you’re off the ferry, rent bikes at Brad’s Bike Rental and Repair or a golf cart at Peaks Island Golf Carts, and head out on the island’s 3.7-mile loop road. Bring a camera: it runs past Cairn Beach (great for views, too rocky for swimming). Staying over? Book ahead at the Inn on Peaks Island (if it’s available, opt for the lovely Bailey Island Suite). If a swim or sunbathing’s on the agenda, point yourself southwest toward Sandy Beach, then wind up back near the ferry dock for shrimp tacos on the deck of the Cockeyed Gull, with its million-dollar view of Portland’s skyline.

LONG ISLAND

Plan to bring your own bike (there are no on-island rentals), or rent a golf cart at Long Island Golf Carts. Before spending a few hours on the large and sandy South Beach, grab some ethereal hand-cut cinnamon-sugar doughnuts at Byers and Sons Long Island Bakehouse. Rather spend your beach time nature watching? For that you’ll want Andrews Beach or the less crowded Fowler Beach—both are frequented by migratory birds and dolphins. Just before sunset, head to the rocky shores of Cleaves Landing on Eastern Avenue for incredible neon-streaked skies. And if you’ve planned things well, you’ll have a reservation for the Hardshell Cafe’s weekly lobster bake, hosted by Ed and Jeanie McAleney and served on their porch, complete with sea breezes.

CLIFF ISLAND

Lounging in nature is the prime directive here, and the plethora of secluded coves, deep woods, conservation land, and wildlife all make it easy. Cliff is the farthest island served by Casco Bay Lines, and the largest one in the bay with no paved roads. Cliff Island Store and Cafe is the place to find local gossip and lobster rolls. Tote the latter over to Stone Beach (aka Rocky Beach) for a picnic on the island’s southwestern edge with views of Peaks and Long Islands, or hike out to the easternmost side for sweeping vistas of the Atlantic.

BAILEY ISLAND

Technically part of Harpswell and connected to the mainland by the world’s sole cribstone bridge (made of hulking granite stone slabs), Bailey offers up miles of picturesque coastline. So, it’s an ideal place to charter a day sail with Sea Escape Cottages and Charters, jump on a lobster boat with West Wind Lobster Tours, or hike and soak up the sublime views at Land’s End on the island’s southernmost tip. Leave time to cap the day with lobster wontons and a local brew on the deck of Cook’s Lobster and Ale House.

LITTLE DIAMOND + GREAT DIAMOND ISLANDS

Fort McKinley, constructed in the late 1800s, is the focal point of Great Diamond. Since its retirement in 1945, it’s been transformed into both a tiny resort—the Inn at Diamond Cove—and private residences. Much of the island is closed to the public, but the inn offers enough amenities— from tennis and indoor basketball to a swimming pool, a yoga studio, and three dining options—that nobody much cares. The area is car-free, so if you want to explore, ask the property for a golf cart ride or a complimentary bike. Little Diamond Island next door is peppered with privately owned cottages, many of which can be rented. (At low tide, you can walk between the islands at Lamson Cove.) Meanwhile, Diamond’s Edge, an upscale restaurant perched on Great Diamond’s sparkling marina, is good enough that many visitors come just for dinner and catch the ferry home after.

CHEBEAGUE ISLAND

Whether you’re just swinging through Chebeague Island Inn for a game of golf and an excellent dinner on its breezy deck or settling in for a week full of lawn games and tennis, the inn is the island’s (relatively) buzzy hub. (Note: There are no TVs on the property, so don’t forget reading material for rainy days.) For beach visits, request the inn’s shuttle service or borrow bikes and ride over to the Niblic for ice cream made by North Yarmouth’s spectacular Toots. And this year, the inn is pushing the season by staying open longer into the fall—yet more of a good thing.

A note about on-island transportation: Only Peaks Island allows cars to be transported by ferry, and car reservations can be scarce in the summer. On most islands, bikes or golf carts are rentable near the ferry terminal, and you can also bring your own bike via ferry for a small extra cost.

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The post A Guide to the Casco Bay Islands appeared first on The Maine Mag.

LEAN INTO LOCAL ARTS HISTORY

Visual artists and performers started discovering Ogunquit in the late 1800s, and the Ogunquit Museum of American Art’s collection starts then and runs to modern day—all of it showing the important role Ogunquit has had in shaping the nation’s art. This summer, look for I’ll Bring the Luck with Me: Hunting and Fishing with Henry Strater, an exhibition spotlighting the local adventurer and artist. Currently in its 90th year, the iconic Ogunquit Playhouse rolls out five musicals and plays each summer. This season’s include musical versions of Mr. Holland’s Opus and The Nutty Professor. Around here, hotels double as art museums, exemplified in Cliff House Maine’s formidable collection of 50 pieces by local artists in multiple mediums, curated by Chris Caraviello of the nearby Van Ward Gallery.

BRING THE BROOD

Kids love the hop-on, hop-off Ogunquit Trolley—a convenient (it runs every 15 minutes) way to navigate downtown Ogunquit’s crowded streets. Ride it to Harbor Candy Shop, full of charm and handmade sweets, and score big with the kids. (Bonus points if you go to the back of the shop and watch candy being made.) When the sea beckons, head for the middle section of the aforementioned Ogunquit Beach, known as Footbridge Beach—a favorite for tykes thanks to an abundance of tide pools, changing rooms, and concessions. One of the most family-friendly spots to stay is Anchorage by the Sea, run by the Ramsey family since 1978. Its recently renovated restaurant, Surf Point 360, has French toast piled with chocolate chips for kids and 360-degree views of the Atlantic for grown-ups.

BREATHE DEEP

Nature couldn’t be easier to access from downtown Ogunquit. Some of Maine’s most stunning views are found along the Marginal Way, a 1.25-mile paved path running along the cliff parallel to town. (The 40 or so benches along the path provide respites for meditating on the crashing Atlantic waves.) Meanwhile, Ogunquit Beach is a 3.5-mile-long stretch of soft sand, gentle surf, and tide pools. Nearby Wells Reserve at Laudholm harbors loads of wildlife, upland fields, forests, and freshwater and estuarine wetlands on its protected 2,250 acres of coastal habitat.

GET YOUR DRAG ON

Known globally as a gay destination, Ogunquit embraces the full rainbow coalition of LGBTQ+ locals and visitors all about town, and everyone is welcome. When you’re craving some piano bar sing-alongs with your bang bang shrimp, hit the Front Porch Piano Bar and Restaurant for dinner—and don’t bypass the fish tacos with lime tequila slaw, either. There’s a nightly party over at Mainestreet, with drag performances, disco bear tea dances, and ’80s prom nights. Plays and comedy acts figure in as well, and the outdoor deck is the place to be after a long day on the beach.

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The post A Day in Ogunquit appeared first on The Maine Mag.

HIT THE TRAILS

While fishing is the biggest draw, there are many ways to enjoy the water, from boating to stand-up paddleboard rentals to guided cruises. A bird’s eye view of these stunning lakes is where to start. Family-friendly day hikes include Rome’s French Mountain. Under a mile long, it’s the biggest bang for your buck: the forested roundtrip hike over granite slabs culminates in a 716-foot-high peak with a spectacular view of Long Pond, the second-largest of the region’s lakes. Mount Phillip offers a longer loop at 1.4 miles, with a look at Great Pond (of On Golden Pond fame). At more than 8,000 acres, it’s the largest lake. Both trails are maintained by the active 7 Lakes Alliance, a conservation nonprofit that often offers group hikes and hosts the weekly farmers’ market in Belgrade Village, located on the jut of land separating Long and Great Ponds. In partnership with the state, the alliance also manages the Kennebec Highlands Public Reserved Land, which, at more than 6,800 acres, is the largest public lands preserve in central Maine. Vienna Mountain was just acquired by the state this spring, filling in a land gap in the preserve, and affords hikers 360-degree views on wild blueberry barrens that are free for the picking.

LAKESIDE LUNCH

After working up an appetite, head to Belgrade’s Hello Good Pie to grab a hearty quiche-of-theday or a sandwich on fresh-made bread to take to Peninsula Park, just down the road on the shores of Long Pond. From there you can watch the boating action or look for loons. Nearby Day’s Store is a longtime village staple for a scoop of ice cream or homemade fudge. A gyro and baklava from the seasonal Spiro and Company food truck pair nicely with a browse through the books and art at neighboring Oliver and Friends Bookshop and Reading Room.

WANDER FARMLANDS

Winterberry Farm in Belgrade, one of a handful of farms in the area, is always open for a self-guided tour of its pastures, gardens, and 1870s Shaker-style barn, where chickens roam and friendly horses nuzzle. The farm store offers its produce, including socks made with the wool of its resident sheep, honey from its hives, and frozen organic turkey potpies, perfect for a quick dinner.

DIP + SPIRITS

Finally, go for a swim in Messalonskee Lake—which locals call Snow Pond—at Oakland’s Town Beach. Then end the day at Tree Spirits Winery and Distillery for a tasting of maple wine or pear brandy, both made with ingredients sourced locally.

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The post A Day in the Belgrade Lakes Region appeared first on The Maine Mag.

Friday

Garden trolls and ocean preserves

Kick off your trip to the Boothbay region by stopping at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, a 148-acre property where visitors can walk along manicured trails, see special sections like the Children’s Garden, or wander through the woods to find the Guardians of the Seeds, giant wooden forest trolls built by Danish artist Thomas Dambø. As you continue south down the peninsula, make a pit stop at Oak Point Farm, a 32-acre preserve on Hodgdon Cove and the sole remaining undeveloped saltwater farm in Boothbay Harbor, which serves as the headquarters for the Boothbay Region Land Trust. The one-mile loop trail circumnavigates a freshwater pond while hugging the coastline and is dotted with numerous benches for relaxing and taking in the sights.

From there, make the short trip over to your lodging destination for the weekend, Powder Hill Farm Cottage, a chic getaway on the property of J Schatz Studio, ceramic studio and gallery owned and managed by Peter Souza and Jim Schatz. Settle in for the weekend in the refreshingly minimalist cottage filled with art from the couple’s personal collection, featuring an impressive book selection, and outfitted with incredible lamps and dinnerware from J Schatz.

After you head into town for dinner, be sure to order a cocktail on the deck at Coastal Prime, the restaurant at Boothbay Harbor Oceanside Golf Resort. Make a point to take a quick walk down the road to snap a photo of the famous fisherman statue outside Brown’s Wharf Inn. It’s just a short drive over to East Boothbay for dinner at the Carriage House Restaurant, which has charming nautical decor and a friendly staff. If you are in the mood for a more casual meal, get provisions from the East Boothbay General Store and find a nice quiet spot next to the water to enjoy an evening picnic. Finish off the night by attending a show at the Opera House at Boothbay Harbor or a screening at Harbor Theater, a single-screen cinema known for showing independent and art house films.

Saturday

Kayak excursions and craft beer

Enjoy a quick but delicious breakfast from bakery Farm 23, then head into downtown Boothbay Harbor to explore the waterfront and shops. Browse the extensive shelves at Sherman’s Maine Coast Bookshop, stop by Gimbel and Sons Country Store to find tasteful Maine gifts for family and friends, and let your eyes devour the extensive and whimsical wares of Enchantments, a shop where you can purchase everything from crystals to tarot cards to dragon statues. If you are looking to expand your garden or succulent collection, a visit to the Boothbay Region Greenhouses will set you up for success.

Now that you’re all shopped out, make your way to the Boothbay Harbor Footbridge to rent a kayak from Tidal Transit Kayak Company. Owner Travis Journagan and his staff will set you up with everything you need for a successful ocean excursion, from waterproof maps to personal flotation devices. Once you’re deemed seaworthy, paddle through Boothbay Harbor past McFarland and Tumbler Islands, and alight on the beach at Burnt Island, home to plenty of walking trails and the historic Burnt Island Light. If paddling isn’t your style but you still want to get out on the water, book a trip with Cabbage Island Clambakes, which takes you on a boat ride from Boothbay Harbor and to Cabbage Island for a traditional downeast clambake. Or, if you want to make a habit of boating around Boothbay Harbor, consider becoming a member of the Carefree Boat Club, which allows you to rent a boat from the member-only fleet whenever you’re in town.

After you’ve worked up an appetite, grab an overstuffed lobster roll from Shannon’s Unshelled lobster shack, order a beer from the Footbridge Brewery, and then wash it all down with a Belgian waffle treat from Wannawaf or something frozen from Downeast Ice Cream Factory. If you’re craving more nature walks, drive to Porter Preserve on Barters Island (accessible via bridge) for views of the Sheepscot River, or wander through Ovens Mouth Preserve, a 5.3-mile trail network on the shores of the Back River. Take in the intensely green, roiling tidal waters of the Back River from the pedestrian bridge over the narrow section of the river that connects the eastern and western sections of Oven’s Mouth Preserve.

Hungry again? Lucky for you it’s a short drive over to Boothbay Craft Brewery, where you can grab appetizers like a flaming artichoke dip or try their award-winning New England IPA, Thirsty Botanist. Now that your appetite is warmed up again, make a reservation for dinner at the Thistle Inn, a historic, upscale hotel in downtown Boothbay Harbor with four elegant dining rooms. Try the fresh herb salad followed by a plate of sirloin steak tips, paired with a bottle from the extensive wine menu. Other dinner options include casual favorites Brady’s and Ports Pizzeria, where you’re likely to rub elbows with numerous locals, or if you are in the mood for something a little more upscale, Ports of Italy or Taka Mediterranean Bar and Grill are sure to do the trick.

Sunday

Coastal views and lighthouses

Enjoy your last morning in Boothbay with a hearty breakfast from local favorite Mama D’s Cafe, then set out to take in as many coastal views as possible before leaving town. Walk the trails at the Linekin and Burley Preserves in East Boothbay to catch a glimpse of the Damariscotta River, or drive all the way to the end of the peninsula to Ocean Point to do the famous Ocean Point Walk. Marked by a path along the rocky coastline that passes numerous gorgeous summer mansions, the walk provides some of the best ocean vistas in the entire Boothbay area, including dramatic waves crashing against the shore and a view of Ram Island and the Ram Island Ledge Light on the horizon.

If you want to learn more about the coast of Maine and the many creatures it’s home to, pay a visit to the Maine State Aquarium, which has two interactive touch tanks for petting and observing numerous species of fish and crustaceans. Just over the bridge in Southport, Robinson’s Wharf is a favorite among locals for its pub food and seafood market, which you can browse while looking out at the water. Make sure to drive down to the end of the peninsula to visit the Cape Newagen Alpaca Farm and Gift Shop for a farm tour and to purchase yarn made from alpaca wool. Drive up the west side of the island to the Southport General Store to buy locally made jewelry and art or pick up a snack before you head to Hendricks Head Light. Nearby, the Hendricks Head Hiking Trail is a short trek in the woods marked by incredibly lush, vibrant moss that will make you feel like you’ve stepped into Narnia.

On your way out of the Boothbay area, stop by Pinkham’s Gourmet Market or popular seafood shack Bet’s Fish Fry (which consistently sells out) for lunch. Consider paying a visit to the Railway Village Museum to see the extensive model railroad portraying Maine’s rail system from the 1950s and ’60s, or take a ride in a vintage train car pulled by a 100-year-old steam locomotive. Once you leave the peninsula, take the scenic route home, capping off the weekend with a visit to Oxbow Brewing Company in Newcastle to walk the trails while you sip a beer and reminisce about your jam-packed coastal adventures.

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The post A Weekend on the Boothbay Peninsula appeared first on The Maine Mag.

Friday

Dinner by fire

Start your weekend trip at the Cape Arundel Inn and Resort, a luxurious seaside Victorian mansion that stands out among many on Kennebunkport’s famed Ocean Avenue. Sit by the fireplace with a glass of champagne before heading into town for dinner at the Lost Fire Patagonian Grill and Bar. Celebrated Argentinian chef Germán Lucarelli’s rustic elegance and culinary prowess are apparent at this stunning addition to the Kennebunks’ food scene. From the street art murals on the building to a menu of every mouthwatering cut of steak imaginable cooked over an open flame to the waitstaff who feel like your friends, the Lost Fire is an experience. Don’t forget to check out the adorable seasonal outdoor patio, LUCA.

Saturday

Seaside exploring and luxurious dining

At Cape Arundel Inn’s Ocean Restaurant, wake up to the mother of avocado toast, featuring poached eggs, ricotta, and salmon on a slab of homemade wheat bread. Enjoy your breakfast in a dining room with a view of the ocean (and of the Bush compound on Walkers Point). Then it’s off to an area favorite, Snug Harbor Farm. Botanists, listen up: this Kennebunk garden center and nursery is paradise. Half a dozen greenhouses are crawling with a jungle of tropical flora (even Venus flytraps) and parades of rare succulents in vintage terra-cotta pots. You can find a variety of plants waking up after a long dormant winter, including a monster Monstera.

Once you’ve got your green fix, a few doors down is Antiques on Nine, which has high-quality antique furniture and contemporary home goods. On your way into the village on Western Avenue is Kennebunk Outfitters, an outdoor store with two floors of clothing and gear from Helly Hansen, Cotopaxi, Patagonia, and more. Next, grab a coffee at European-style cafe Mornings in Paris to sip while you walk over the bridge from Kennebunk to Kennebunkport. The upper section of the Kennebunk River below is a prime kayaking spot (the public launch is a stone’s throw away at the old grist mill). Snap a photo downriver of the boats in the harbor, then keep on walking until you reach a sweet little window display with black and white ceramics and earthy handmade gifts from reclaimed wood. The contemporary boutique Minka, with clothing and accessories, home goods, jewelry, and other gifts, is worth a stop. Next, stop in to Live Cafe for a smoothie, or go all out with the wild flavors of Rococo Ice Cream—the sweet avocado cayenne is off the charts.

If it’s windy and rainy, take a drive along Ocean Avenue and pull over to watch the monster waves crashing into the rocks, like at the jetty on Colony Beach. Or if it’s nice out, meander down the Parson’s Way trail off Ocean Avenue for free front-row seats to the Atlantic.

After perusing the popular port, it’s time to get off the grid. Turn off Goose Rocks Road onto the gravel road of the luxury resort Hidden Pond and drive past glamorous cabins tucked into a majestic forest until, at the end, you reach the property’s restaurant, Earth at Hidden Pond. It’s here that heaven exists. The rustic sprawling space brings the outdoors in with windows overlooking a pond, a swimming pool, and tables for outdoor seating. The walls are dizzying stacks of tree stumps spanning from the floor to the ceiling. The place is drenched in modern opulence, with Edison-bulb chandeliers dangling over signature Snug Harbor greenery. But the real centerpiece is the four-course, farm-to-fork menu featuring produce picked from the on-site organic garden, such as beets, eggplants, heirloom tomatoes, herbs, and edible flowers—plus high-bush blueberries. Each bite is worth savoring for a few more seconds, such as the roe over scallops and cauliflower. Finish off what will likely be one of the best meals you’ve had in Maine with the tiramisu and Tempranillo—and you’re down for the count.

Sunday

Enjoying the ocean’s bounty

Rise and shine, and start your day with a short hike. On your drive along Ocean Avenue, swing by views of the stone chapel at St. Ann’s by-the-Sea Episcopal Church. On Route 9 the Kennebunk Bridle Path caters to hikers and, in the winter, cross-country skiers. This scenic out-and-back trail is about three miles each way and runs along a turn-of-the-century train bed situated between two local land preserves. The trail ends near a funky architectural salvage store, the Old House Parts Company, located in an 1872 freight warehouse.

There’s no shortage of adventure in the Kennebunks, especially in Kennebunkport’s Cape Porpoise, an adorable fishing village with a touch of grit. Here, the seascape is decorated with Capes old and new, humble cottages, and mansions on stilts. Lobster fishers haul traps in this less-traveled village, where fish is fresh off the boat. Go to Langsford Road Lobster and Fish House or, if you don’t feel like cooking, to the Cape Pier Chowder House for unbeatable lobster rolls and views for days. Across the parking lot, take a seat and a peek at Goat Island Light Station on the other side of the harbor.

Then, follow the colorful buoys into Ramp Bar and Grill for an after-meal drink on a patio of crushed shells. You’ll probably catch a fisherman tying up to the dock at the end of the day. Inside, sports paraphernalia covers the ceiling of this favorite watering hole of the late George H.W. Bush and other celebrities, whose signatures you’ll find on the walls.

Of all the beautiful blues, greens, and natural hues that bring life to the Kennebunks, maybe the most striking is the pale, soft sand, still waters, piney islands, and piping plovers of Kennebunkport’s Goose Rocks Beach. Every visit is just as breathtaking as the first. As the sun falls behind the horizon, you have to say goodbye to the Kennebunks—for now.

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The post A Weekend in Kennebunk + Kennebunkport appeared first on The Maine Mag.

“Eighty six, eight-seven,” says Andrew Peters, captain of the fishing boat Sammy G. “Ninety,” adds David Loxterkamp, a friend and family doctor from Belfast who’s on board to help for the day. The two men keep counting, the numbers they call out bouncing through the air while the diesel engine chugs. In Grundens orange bibs and teal green rubberized gloves, the men are working through stacked crates of splashing seawater, sorting and counting the day’s haul of scallops. They need 1,200 scallops—cleaned and shucked—to fill the orders for this week.

So, this is a scallop farm.

A few buoys are the only above-water evidence of the bivalves in the water column below us, growing in mesh lantern-shaped bags or suspended individually on rope to which they’ve been attached by a pierced “ear” portion of the shell. (When the young scallops in the mesh bags are large enough, Peters uses a drill press to make a small hole in each shell.) The scallops, seeded three years ago, are finally ready to be harvested this past summer and fall, and Peters has been busy. This is hands-on, hard work. His enterprise, Vertical Bay Maine, focuses on line-grown scallops, and is part of a budding aquaculture sector here that’s already garnered interest from chefs and home cooks—even as just a handful of farmers have jumped in so far.

The cultivation of scallops is growing slowly and steadily as a practice, but line-grown scallops still represent only a tiny fraction of the scallops harvested in Maine, according to Dana Morse, who has studied scallops for more than 20 years. He works with the Maine Sea Grant College Program and University of Maine Cooperative Extension and has attended research trips to Atlantic Canada and to Japan to see the methods used there that might translate well in Maine. The information he gathers is shared with farmers like Peters, who previously worked in breweries and on lobster boats, and he happens to have a degree in geology. “Andrew had fished commercially, lobstering, and he did his homework well to find the lease location in Penobscot Bay—for depth, protection from storms, and access,” Morse says.

Line-grown mussels are often found on menus, and oyster-growing operations have multiplied over the years, but cultivated scallops have been less available. Last summer I was excited to find whole young scallops from PenBay Farmed Scallops out of Stonington in my seafood market—and then to learn of Vertical Bay’s operation off Bucks Harbor. Scallop farms are expanding the seasonality of just-caught Maine scallops because the harvesting of line-grown scallops isn’t limited to the wild scallop-fishing season in the state, typically December to April, when boats fish for the bivalves with mechanical draggers, or divers gather them one by one.

Planning to buy more fresh scallops to bring home, I’ve already earmarked a few recipes.

A Scallop Morning in Maine

The weather’s mild and clear on this early fall day when photographer Peter Frank Edwards and I are joining a harvest by Vertical Bay Maine, eager to visit the narrow section of water where the scallops are growing. Temperatures are already in the upper 50s at 7:30 on this morning of glassy calm water in Bucks Harbor.

Peters, slim in a hooded sweatshirt, is at the Carolina skiff he keeps at the marina’s dock to motor to and from his fishing boat, which is on a mooring among sailboats and working boats for harvesting lobster and oysters. This harbor, tucked into Brooksville on the Blue Hill peninsula, is the one depicted with such clarity and charm in One Morning in Maine by Robert McCloskey. In the village up the hill, Condon’s Garage and the general store look just like the charcoal drawings in the book.

Peters’s 32-foot fishing boat hums along. Its name, Sammy G, is a nod to his wife, Samantha Gilligan Peters, and the investments they’ve made to launch the aquaculture venture, including buying out an original cofounder and purchasing boats and equipment with their savings. She continues her career as a nurse practitioner, and while the young couple worked together to launch the scallop farm, they became new parents: their son, Beauden, was born in 2021. By then Andrew had also earned a plumber’s license. “I promised Sam I’d do that, just in case we needed a backup plan,” he says. He worked plumbing projects into last year, but when he found he could sell as many scallops as he could harvest, he leaned into scallop farming, making it full-time.

This isn’t a bad commute at all, I am thinking as we motor out to the farm. It is a jaunt of about 15 minutes to where Peters is cultivating tens of thousands of scallops below the surface along some 400 feet of line. We notice a seal swimming along the way, and in the distance are the masts of a schooner or two. When I see an osprey flying overhead, I imagine its hawk’s-eye view of us, on a boat nearly alone on an expanse of flat water in eastern Penobscot Bay, apart from the bracelet of small islands and ledges of Hog Island, Western Island, Pond Island, and Fiddle Head. Just to the north is Cape Rosier, where Samantha Peters spent summers growing up and where she still has family. When we motor up to the farm’s buoys, the depth gauge shows that the water is 60 to 70 feet deep. Here, Peters and Loxterkamp get to scalloping.

Taste the Merroir

Once collected into bins on the boat deck, where saltwater is kept circulating, the live scallops can be evaluated and counted. I pull on some coveralls, too, and grab some palm-sized live mollusks that are opening and closing, showing glimpses of the soft bodies inside— some with a curved pillow of orange roe. Before counting each one, the men pull off some of the sea squirts and tiny starfish, mussels, and other marine creatures attached to the shells. Sometimes when he’s working out here, Peters says, large schools of mackerel swim past.

Peters lifts a few scallops that have been growing on the line, clips the filaments, and shucks them so we can taste a scallop that’s just a few seconds from the sea. We’re tasting the bivalve’s one large adductor muscle—the dense medallion that’s recognized on menus and plates as a scallop. It’s cool and buttery, tasting absolutely clean and fresh.

Togue Brawn, who sells and promotes scallops through her online business Downeast Dayboat, describes Vertical Bay Maine’s variety as “creamy and sweet with very little brininess.” Brawn, who previously helped to manage the scallop fishery for the Maine Department of Marine Resources, has a knack for describing the differences in the tastes and textures of fresh Maine scallops, depending on where, when, and how they were harvested. “Merroir” is important to shellfish, she explains, just as terroir affects the taste of wine grapes in vineyards.

“I get a little excited about all of the benefits of a more diverse fishery in Maine.”

Besides being a delicious and interesting food source, scallops and other mollusks are beneficial in the ecosystem because they filter water, Brawn notes. The farm-raised scallops are seeded with wild-produced spat (tiny scallops), and no added feed is introduced while the scallops grow. Then mature farmed scallops release spat that can make their way back into wild beds via ocean tides and currents, which could help boost the wild scallop population. Growing the farmed scallop industry can also help to diversify Maine’s working waterfronts, Brawn says. The state’s fishing industry is overwhelmingly reliant on lobstering, which made up more than three-quarters of the total value of commercial landings in 2020, and Brawn notes that scallop farming can provide an alternative to the state’s biggest fishery. “I get a little excited about all of the benefits of a more diverse fishery in Maine,” she says.

Morse, who has assisted Peters and other fisherman in starting their scallop-farming operations, has observed interest in scallop aquaculture in Maine growing in fits and starts over recent years. He notes it’s a labor-intensive prospect, and that it takes a few years “for farmers to get in tune with the ecology and seasonality rhythms of the site.”

He’s optimistic about recent efforts and studies, though, and he hopes enterprises like Vertical Bay Maine will thrive. Morse says more than one seafood broker has told him that a Maine-caught wild scallop “is about as good as you can get in the global marketplace, and the same is true for a farm-raised scallop in Maine. Both taste fabulous.”

The scallop possibilities certainly seem promising after an on-the-boat view. And before we go, Peters mentions that he’s feeling confident after the strong summer season last year—both for scallops and for aquaculture in Maine generally.

I’ve tasted more of the scallops since that day, and I have to agree. I don’t think he’ll even need that backup plan.

Scallops, Two Ways

Scallops with Ginger, Sesame, and Soy

Serves 2 to 4 as an appetizer

In honor of Japan’s influence on Maine’s scallop aquaculture, we found and modified a Japanese bar snack recipe. Scrubbed and washed scallop shells become the serving “plates.”

INGREDIENTS

1 sheet of nori or other dried seaweed 1 cup sake
8 to 10 fresh scallops in the shell
2 tablespoons melted butter
1⁄2 teaspoon sesame oil
Splash of soy sauce
10 thin slices of jalapeño or habañero pepper (for garnish)

Sauce
1 tablespooon soy sauce
1 tablespooon mirin (Japanese cooking wine)
1 tablespooon rice vinegar
1 tablespooon pickled shredded ginger or minced fresh ginger

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut the nori sheet into 8 to 10 pieces and soak in the sake for a few minutes. Drain and set aside. Meanwhile, shuck the scallops. Scrub and dry the shells and set aside. Slice each scallop in half to make two “coins.”

Whisk together the sauce ingredients—soy sauce, mirin, rice vinegar, and ginger—in small bowl.

Heat the butter in a skillet over high heat and add the scallops, sesame oil, and a splash of soy sauce. Sauté for about 1 minute on each side and remove from the pan.

In each clean, dry scallop shell, assemble two pieces of cooked scallop, a piece of marinated nori, and a pepper slice or two, then spoon some sauce over. Serve.

Cream of Scallop Soup

Serves 2

This is adapted from a scallop recipe in one of the final issues of Gourmet, the grand food magazine that, sadly, shuttered in 2009. (We’ve managed to keep a stack of copies that are frequent sources of inspiration.) Here it is, adapted with rosé, a single egg, and a “stock” made with instant soup base.

INGREDIENTS

8 to 10 shucked fresh scallops, each cut in half or thirds and seasoned lightly with salt 2⁄3 cup stock (we used vegetable bouillon)
1⁄4 cup rosé wine
1⁄2 small shallot, finely chopped 2 thyme sprigs
2⁄3 cup heavy cream
1 egg yolk
Salt and fresh cracked black pepper to taste
1 tablespooon chopped chives

INSTRUCTIONS

Lightly sprinkle the sliced scallops with salt. Bring the stock to a boil with the rosé, shallot, and thyme in a heavy saucepan. Stir in the scallops and simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove scallops and set aside. Cover the saucepan with a lid and simmer.

Meanwhile, bring cream to a simmer in a small saucepan. Whisk the egg yolk in a bowl, then add a few spoonfuls of heated cream while whisking constantly. Add a dash of salt and black pepper. Whisk the egg-cream mixture into the stock. Warm over low heat until hot but not simering.

Divide the scallops between two warmed bowls, pour some soup over, and garnish with chives.

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The post Farmed Scallops Take Root in Maine’s Waters appeared first on The Maine Mag.