48 Hours – The Maine Mag https://www.themainemag.com Thu, 09 Mar 2023 14:25:26 +0000 en-US hourly 1 48 Hours in Cape Elizabeth, South Portland + Scarborough https://www.themainemag.com/48-hours-in-cape-elizabeth-south-portland-scarborough-2/ Thu, 09 Mar 2023 14:25:24 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64826 FridayChecking in Kick off the weekend with appetizers and beers at Foulmouthed Brewing, a former auto garage turned into a brewpub in South Portland. Start with an order of crispy fries and a flight of dipping sauces—the malt vinegar mayo

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Friday
Checking in

Kick off the weekend with appetizers and beers at Foulmouthed Brewing, a former auto garage turned into a brewpub in South Portland. Start with an order of crispy fries and a flight of dipping sauces—the malt vinegar mayo is a customer favorite. Nachos always pair well with beer, so scoop some corn tortilla chips with spicy queso, cumin lime crema, pickled jalapenos, cilantro, lettuce, tomato, and black beans. And leave some room for the General Tso’s wings; they’re tangy with just a hint of spice and wash down perfectly with the Sir Squirrel brown ale.

For a well-deserved splurge, book a room at Inn by the Sea, located on Crescent Beach in Cape Elizabeth. Just seven miles from Portland, you’ll feel worlds away when you catch a glimpse of the expansive coastal landscape, the inspiration behind the inn’s architecture and design.

The two-bedroom suites are perfect for families or groups of friends. Stock your full-size fridge with essentials for the weekend and stay in and cook if you’re in the mood. Four-legged guests are supplied with their own bed, blanket, placemat, bowls, and a gigantic homemade biscuit. If your furry friend needs some extra pampering, you can preorder dinner from the gourmet pet menu. All the suites have incredible views from the living room, gas-burning fireplaces, and private decks or balconies.

The inn’s on-site restaurant, Sea Glass, is a destination of its own and is frequented by locals, so make a reservation. Executive chef David Brown recently revamped the menus with a primary focus on quality seasonal ingredients. Start with one of the specialty cocktails, like the Sea Glass Spritzer, and an order of mussels in bouillabaisse sauce paired with the house bread for dipping. Don’t overlook the unassuming Farmer’s Salad, which features shaved veggies, whipped ricotta, herb crumble, and a smooth champagne vinaigrette. The cavatelli with clams is an excellent entrée choice, but if you’re not into seafood, try the braised short ribs with a merlot reduction. Finish with the crème brûlée, and then stop by the lobby bar to enjoy a fireside nightcap.

Saturday
Antiques and eats

Roll out of bed, make yourself a Nespresso, and take an early-morning walk through Crescent Beach State Park. From October 1 through March 31, you can run with your leashed dog along the mile of white sand. The whole family will enjoy discovering saltwater coves and wooded pathways. When you return to the inn, order the apple French toast for breakfast, which will give you a good base for the day.

Cape Elizabeth has the longest growing season in Maine and hosts over 20 farms. If you’re there during the summer, make sure to stop by Maxwell’s Farm on Two Lights Road for strawberry picking. Cape Elizabeth also has one of the most photographed lighthouses in the world, the Portland Head Light at Fort Williams Park. Commissioned by George Washington and completed in 1791, the oldest lighthouse in Maine is managed by the town and includes a museum within the former keepers’ quarters. It might look especially familiar since artist Edward Hopper captured it in one of his most renowned watercolors.

Time to get in a little stress-free shopping on Shore Road. Make your first stop The Artful Collector, where you can find Weller and Roseville pottery, along with well-preserved issues of the Saturday Evening Post dating back to the early 1920s. Modern gems might include a vintage Iittala Aalto Vase or an Arne Jacobsen Swan chair. Go next door to Fiddleheads Fine Flowers and Maine Gifts; this magical little shop creates sustainably sourced custom arrangements. Their small bouquets make great hostess gifts for the friend who has everything. If you walk just a few blocks down the road after, you can experience the delight of The Cookie Jar’s famous raspberry Bismarck pastry. And then why not decompress for a bit back at the inn with lunch? You can grab sandwiches and salads at C Salt Gourmet Market and enjoy them on your private deck while soaking up the ocean air.

A favorite destination in Scarborough is Higgins Beach. When the surf is up, surfers can be seen catching waves no matter the season. Enjoy walking the beach and admiring the classic New England cottages that date back to the 1800s. If you have kids, go farther south along the Scarborough coastline to Ferry Beach. It’s the perfect place for parents to relax because the water there is calm and shallow. Enjoy the sunset before heading to dinner at the Pine Point Grill. This cozy restaurant is just one mile from Pine Point Beach. You’ll want to order the French onion soup and wild haddock with rosemary potatoes.

Sunday
Beaches and Bug Light

Begin the morning with one last walk around the inn’s grounds. After that, head to Bonny Read in South Portland, where locals know you can score some fantastic midcentury and antique pieces for your home. After you finish perusing the shop, grab a coffee down the road at Cia Cafe and check out the jewelry by Maine makers. Now that you’re caffeinated, make your way over to Nonesuch Books and More, where they have new and gently used books for adults and children as well as a nice selection of Stonewall Kitchen soaps and jams.

Get back in the car and take a short drive to one of the smallest lighthouses in the state, Portland Breakwater Lighthouse, also referred to as Bug Light. Originally built of wood in the 1800s, the lighthouse was later rebuilt using cast-iron plates. Standing just 26 feet tall, it’s located on the eastern end of the Greenbelt Walkway with a view of the entrance to Portland Harbor. If it’s a windy day, take a kite with you. And make sure you allow yourself some time to explore the nearby Liberty Ship Memorial to learn about the ships built there during World War II.

Before you head out of town, grab snacks at the new Buena Vista Filipino Food Market. If you’re lucky, they’ll have a fresh batch of pancit noodles. For more take-home food, check out two Italian markets: Solo Cucina Market, where you’ll find Solo’s acclaimed pesto sauce, the same recipe served in their restaurant in downtown Portland, and Terra Cotta Pasta Co., whose delicious homemade ravioli with mushroom sauce also happens to freeze well. Last, stop over at Cape Whoopies for a final sweet treat. There’s an extensive menu, but well-known favorites include Maple Sunday and Birthday Suit—and don’t worry, they even have a gluten-free option.

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Brunswick in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/brunswick-in-48-hours/ Mon, 02 Jan 2023 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64584 FridayDecadent digs Suspended over the Androscoggin River, the Androscoggin Swinging Bridge is a historic pedestrian bridge that connects the towns of Brunswick and Topsham, and is a great first stop during your trip to Brunswick. Built by the same company

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Friday
Decadent digs

Suspended over the Androscoggin River, the Androscoggin Swinging Bridge is a historic pedestrian bridge that connects the towns of Brunswick and Topsham, and is a great first stop during your trip to Brunswick. Built by the same company responsible for the Brooklyn Bridge in New York City, this iconic landmark is the perfect spot to snap a few photos and immerse yourself in nature.

Across the street sits a curious sculpture of a large wooden head seemingly built into the landscape. A small carved sign claiming the “Gallery Is Open” directs you to take a right. The Barter Art House Gallery is a building that is as quirky as the sculptures that surround it, and features the works of artists Matt Barter, Philip Barter, and Tim Fischer. Around the corner, the Bayview Gallery is another great space to admire and purchase art from renowned artists across New England.

The Federal Hotel is just a short distance away, tucked into a quiet corner of town, steps away from Maine Street but far back enough to provide respite from the bustling retail district. Recently renovated, the hotel’s chic ambience mixed with vintage appeal and attentive, knowledgeable staff makes this the ideal home base for your trip to the southern midcoast. Located inside the hotel is the new 555 North, a Portland favorite (then under the name Five Fifty-Five) that has resettled into its new home a half hour north. The sophisticated tasting menu offers artistically plated dishes, like the popular pepper-crusted scallops or pork rib eye. Trendy, upscale, and delicious, it’s a dining spot any foodie spending time in Brunswick should make a priority.

If you’re craving something sweet after dinner, Gelato Fiasco’s flagship store is a short walk into town and features an array of gelato and sorbet made in-house daily. For a nightcap, head up the road to Pub 165. Take a seat on the cushy leather couch or pull up a chair beside the fireplace to bask in the cozy atmosphere and sip on one of the tasty craft cocktails from their pub menu.

Saturday
Bowdoin and boutiques

Start the morning off by claiming your spot in line at Dog Bar Jim. While the queue may be long, it moves fast, and the interior of the cafe has no shortage of unique decorations to keep you entertained, including a CRT television playing Seinfeld reruns. After you guzzle a Café Bombon with whipped condensed coconut milk and devour a warm pumpkin-curry muffin stuffed with spiced cream cheese, check out the huge display of artists’ murals that decorate the alleyway outside this eclectic local haunt.

Brunswick’s art scene doesn’t end with galleries and murals. Bowdoin College’s sprawling campus sits along Maine Street and is home to the Bowdoin College Museum of Art. A glass and bronze pavilion marks the entrance of the museum, which has rotating art and anthropologic exhibitions and is free to the public. The museum is small but impressive, featuring works from artists including Andrew Wyeth, Winslow Homer, and Katherine Bradford.

Head back into town and check out some of the shops while you ponder your next meal. The Lemont Block Collective has an inventory of goods made by local artisans, sustainable products, and antiques. Nest is another shop brimming with home goods to update your space. Pick up a bottle of wine and some artisanal cheese for later at Vessel and Vine. Make your way out to the back: the vines that enclose the porch create a dreamy vibe that pairs perfectly with one of their craft cocktails.

There is no shortage of lunch options downtown. Maiz Colombian Street Food has generously stuffed arepas with your choice of sauce, fried plantains filled with melted cheese, empanadas, and other Colombian dishes. Across the street, ZaoZe Cafe and Market offers Asian-inspired pastries and lunch fare featuring produce from the aquaponic farm located directly behind. The Big Top Delicatessen always satisfies with a menu that features both hot and cold deli classics; each sandwich comes with a side of potato chips and a sour pickle.

After lunch, spend some time treasure hunting at the Waterfront Flea Market. This massive indoor flea market is located inside Fort Andross. It’s easy to get lost among vintage records, piles of books, narrow corridors of furniture, and racks of clothes. If you’re looking for something a bit less chaotic and a bit more curated, Cabot Mill Antiques is also located in the mill, and is just as entertaining to explore without the risk of knocking over a pile of VHS tapes.

For dinner, reserve a table or grab a spot at the bar at Enoteca Athena, a rustic-chic Greek-Italian restaurant serving generous plates of homemade pasta and other Mediterranean dishes in a space that’s as homey as it is romantic. If you’re having a difficult time deciding on what to eat, the knowledgeable staff is eager to suggest dishes and cocktail pairings based on your taste. The Pesto Mediterraneo pasta dish is highly recommended to those who don’t mind a little heat. Don’t hesitate to indulge in a delicate slice of olive oil pistachio cake for dessert.

Sunday
Brunch and brews

Start your morning off at Flip Breakfast and Brunch Bar, where you can wake yourself up the right way with a mimosa pitcher and a lobster Benedict. For something on the sweeter side, Frosty’s Donuts is a Brunswick staple that’s been serving up fresh donuts and cinnamon rolls the size of hubcaps since 1965.

If you went a bit overboard at breakfast, enjoy a scenic walk or bike ride along the Androscoggin River Bicycle Path to work off some of that fuel. The trail is a 2.6-mile (one-way) path that winds along the Androscoggin River and offers plenty of spots to stop and admire the water or watch paddling kayakers.

Before you say goodbye to Brunswick, make time to stop at the popular Flight Deck Brewing and try some of their tasty craft beer offerings, like the Krosswind, a crisp, easy-to-drink Kolsch, or the hoppy Subhunter IPA. Located at the former Brunswick Naval Air Station, the brewery is bright and airy, with plenty of seating options both inside and out.

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Carrabassett Valley in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/carrabassett-valley-in-48-hours-2/ Tue, 01 Nov 2022 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64289 FridayHead for the hills Whether you’re a diehard skier looking to carve up the slopes or a winter vacationer in search of a change of scenery, you can’t go wrong with a weekend in the western mountains of Maine. As

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Olympic snowboarder Seth Wescott explores the back side of his home mountain. (PHOTO: Christina Wnek)

Friday
Head for the hills

Whether you’re a diehard skier looking to carve up the slopes or a winter vacationer in search of a change of scenery, you can’t go wrong with a weekend in the western mountains of Maine. As you make the trek up to Carrabassett Valley (driving slowly, as afternoon snowstorms are the norm in the Pine Tree State), there are a few key stops along the way that will help you get into the mountain mindset. Make sure to visit Douin’s Market and Diner in New Sharon for a signature brownie whoopie pie, and if you are in need of any extra reading material for cozy evenings next to the fire, a stop for used books at Twice Sold Tales in Farmington is a must. As you near your destination and home for the weekend, get your fill of caffeine at Carrabassett Coffee Company in Kingfield. It’s a small-batch specialty roaster where you can choose from a variety of freshly roasted coffees to sustain you during your 48-hour jaunt away from your home coffee setup. Feeling a little peckish after the long drive? Grab a burrito from favored local haunt Rolling Fatties, where unexpected ingredients like falafel and dill pickles pack a surprising and delightful punch. If you’re looking to mostly eat in for the weekend, stock up on groceries and necessities at Mainely Provisions, and then browse the impressive selection of IPAs, pilsners, saisons, and more at The Maine Beer Shed, which carries both craft beer and farm products from across the state.

A visit to Carrabassett Valley almost always guarantees spending time on skis. Booking a room at the Sugarloaf Inn, conveniently located at the base of the ski resort, allows for quick and easy access to the hill. Splurge a little—you’re in the land of mountain chalets, after all—and settle into a deluxe suite with a lounge, private balcony, mountainside views, and a dangerously comfortable king-size bed. Once you’ve stored your ski equipment in the hotel’s locker room, head into the village for some mountain ambiance. A visit to wine bar Alice and Lulu’s is a great start to the après-ski scene; you can grab light appetizers and a glass of cabernet or sauvignon blanc to whet your appetite. Next, have dinner at Hug’s Italian Restaurant, where classic Italian fare will warm you up enough to brave the walk back to the hotel before you turn in for the night.

Saturday
Hit the slopes

Keeping an eye on the weather forecast, get breakfast at Shipyard Brew Haus, a day-to-night restaurant attached to the Sugarloaf Inn with quick access to the Sawduster chairlift, which will deposit you at the base of the mountain. If you’re still feeling sluggish or there’s a wind hold on the lifts delaying the opening of the upper mountain, find a quick cup of coffee at Java Joe’s to wake yourself up. On the slopes, sticking closer to the lower mountain will provide plenty of opportunities for beginners to get comfortable on two planks, while hopping on the Skyline lift will be more appealing to seasoned shredders. Looking to get away from the crowds? It’s a bit of a trek, but heading over to the less trafficked, far eastern side of the mountain via the King Pine lift guarantees numerous laps and short lift lines for expert skiers.

If you’re not a bell-to-bell winter athlete, head in early to take advantage of the various activities in the village. Grab a quick lunch of soup and a sandwich at D’Ellies Bakery and Deli, fuel up quickly with a delectable meal from Black Diamond Burritos, or skip straight to dessert and warm up with a round of hot and fresh doughnuts from local favorite Eighty 8 Donuts. Try whimsical pastries like the Bamm Bamm, topped with Fruity Pebbles cereal, or the Ol’ Blue Eyes, featuring lavender glaze, lemon curd, and Nilla crumble. Now it’s time to relax; peel off your snow pants, pull on your swimsuit, and book it over to the Sugarloaf Sports and Fitness Center. Bask in the hot tubs until you’re adequately loosened up, and then take a quick dip into the pool to cool off. If you’re looking to really unwind, consider calling ahead to book an hourlong massage (Swedish or deep tissue, your choice) to get all the knots out before you rush off to your dinner reservation.

A trip to Sugarloaf is incomplete without at least one meal at The Bag and Kettle, a favorite among locals, newcomers, and Sugarloaf devotees alike. It’s known for the famous Bag Burger and legendary après-ski amusements. If you’re looking to fully enmesh yourself in ski-bum culture and the Sugarloaf community, and you’re hoping to catch sight of a shot ski (four to six shot glasses screwed onto a ski for group imbibing), the Bag is your go-to restaurant. If you’re in the mood for a quieter, more romantic dinner, the Coplin Dinner House in Stratton is a 15-minute drive from the base of the resort. With a fine dining menu that changes daily and focuses on local ingredients, you’re sure to tuck into a meal you’ll remember for months to come.

Sunday
The dog days of winter

Not a skier but still want to get out into the winter wonderland? Consider booking a ride with Dogsled Maine, a family-run kennel of sled racing dogs living out their retirement doing what they do best: running fast. A chorus of joyful howls will serenade you as you whip around wooded trails and see the mountain from an entirely different perspective while bundled up warmly in numerous blankets. If you’re traveling with little ones who tire quickly in the snow, a trip to the Sugarbowl Family Entertainment Center might be in order. Hit up the lanes for a couple of rousing bowling matches, or if you’re feeling nostalgic for summer, try your hand at virtual golf! With options to play 18 rounds at any golf resort in the country (minus the walking and sun in your eyes), you can practice your driving and putting without breaking a sweat. If you’re visiting Carrabassett Valley closer to fall or spring, your options for other outdoor activities might be expanded. If you love two wheels as much as you love two planks, be sure to check out Freeman Ridge Bike Park, which offers over five miles of single-track mountain bike trails, or the 80 miles of trails developed and maintained by the Carrabassett Region Chapter of the New England Mountain Bike Association that run throughout the entire valley. Regardless of how you choose to spend your mountain weekend (whether on the slopes from dawn to dusk or enjoying plenty of downtime in the lodge with a cup of hot cocoa), you’re sure to be plotting your next mountain excursion before you even pack up your gear and head back to sea level.

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Lovell in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/lovell-in-48-hours/ Sat, 01 Oct 2022 09:00:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=64091 FridayCanoes and loon calls Start your weekend by acknowledging that you may have overlooked Lovell on the map. That’s part of the charm—once you’ve been to the town, its rusticator-chic resorts and the lake it hugs, called Kezar, you get

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Drifting beneath West Lovell Road, through the Narrows toward Lower Bay, Kezar Lake.

Friday
Canoes and loon calls

Start your weekend by acknowledging that you may have overlooked Lovell on the map. That’s part of the charm—once you’ve been to the town, its rusticator-chic resorts and the lake it hugs, called Kezar, you get the feeling it was you who discovered it. Largely invisible from the main roads, there’s a cloistered feeling to Lovell, as if the storied camp scene has been carefully shielded by a pine-tree curtain. It’s a special place, as its residents are quick to say. But before you hit the road, do yourself a favor and download a map. Cell service is essentially nonexistent.

Book yourself a canoe at the Kezar Lake Marina and begin exploring by water. Day and week rentals are available and come with life vests and oars, though a dry bag for sunscreen and snacks is recommended. Push off from the marina and hang a right; paddle beneath West Lovell Road, through the narrows, and drift alongside lilies. Power on to Lower Bay, where you’ll coast to stunning views of Mt. Washington. Or hang a left out of the marina and paddle up-lake, where you’ll pass the private beaches of Middle Bay that belong to a handful of resorts, giving you an idea of the sheer scope of Kezar’s nine miles. The town of Lovell has four distinct sections: Lovell Village, Center Lovell, North Lovell, and West Lovell, all of which flank the lake. (“Don’t know what happened to East Lovell, or South Lovell…” the town’s website states.) Find a public beach to pull up on and take a dip. Make sure to stare down at your toes, visible through the pristine waters.

No doubt you’ll be hungry by now. Thankfully, the marina is home to The Loon’s Nest restaurant, where you can taste the famous Blobbster (think lobster bisque rolled in balls and fried—eerily good). Sit at a picnic table overlooking the marina on one of two decks, upper and lower, and eavesdrop. Many guests are welcomed by name.

After lunch, zip back down Main Street to the Charlotte Hobbs Library. Opened in 1908, the library is one of several gateways to the town’s archives, which are plentiful (another is the Lovell Historical Society). If you’re a history buff: ask about the Abenaki Chief Paugus and the Battle of the Pequawket. The conflict is also known as Lovewell’s War, from which the town gets its name (Mt. Kearsarge Indian Museum in Warner, New Hampshire, houses some Abenaki artifacts found in and around Kezar Lake). You might also inquire about Lovell’s famous residents over the years, including Stephen King and family; crooner and teen idol, Rudy Vallée; and Marsden Hartley, the self-proclaimed “Painter of Maine” who, according to the Lovell Historical Society, once wrote of the place: “I know of no handsomer scene than when the leaves have fallen and purple October has covered the land like a long stream of smoke.”

Pull back onto Main Street and cruise through the towering trees until you get to Center Lovell Market, where you can pick up provisions for tomorrow’s hike and picnic, or go straight to the Firefly Gallery Art and Vintage, a sharp showroom of antiques and curios tidily presented against white shiplap.

Time to check into The Lodge at Pleasant Point. Originally opened in 1911, the lodge was given a tasteful update just a few years ago and is now the ideal axis for your Lovell experience. Tucked between tall pines facing the lake you’ll find a private beach, complimentary canoes and kayaks for guests, a wraparound porch and screened-in pagoda perfect for late-night games of cards, and stunning sunset views. When you check in, inquire about dinner reservations. The lodge serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday and does one seating a night, which makes the experience intimate and unrushed (and highly coveted).

The Lodge at Pleasant Point is tucked between tall trees and faces the lake, where residents can use complimentary canoes and kayaks to explore the territory.

When the bar opens at 4:00 p.m., order a martini and lean into an Adirondack chair on the porch. Listen to chatter drifting across the water and the sound of kids shrieking with laughter as they dive off the docks. You might hear the performers at the Quisisana Resort next door, known for its world-class shows (opera! musical theater!) singing for guests on the lawn (and sadly, for guests only).

Find your table at the lodge restaurant and watch the room fill up as the sun gently sets behind the trees. Start your meal with an appetizer like kataifi shrimp, tightly wrapped in string filo and topped with a salty-sweet sauce, sesame seeds, and colorful vegetable garnish, followed by the ranch steak or blackened salmon, both of which come with a rain-bow of fresh garnishes and a dollop of sauce. Order with the dinner rolls in mind, because they’re soft and savory yet underscored by a subtle sweetness, which means they are perfect for ruining your appetite. No matter what you get, it’ll be good. The food here rivals any of Portland’s highbrow contemporaries.

Before bed, take an evening stroll on the beach and bask in a winsome concert of loon calls.

Saturday
Seasonal goodies and mountain vistas

After a morning swim in the lake, seek out Craft Artisan Baking, a “one person micro-bakery” on Main Street where the French-style pastries are sold right off the baker’s stately porch. They sell out quick, so don’t dawdle. Next, head to Fly Away Farm’s stand, located in the Jordan Construction building, where you can pick up local goods grown and raised by solar power, including meat, vegetables, flowers, and breads. Tip: check social media before banking on either the bakery or farm stand, which are subject to weather and seasonality.

Time to shop. A mile up the road is stop one: the Harvest Gold Gallery. Opened in 1985, the award-winning collection showcases fine gold works by owners Bill Rudd and Lynda Rasco alongside a parade of local artisans’ wares: paintings, textiles, woodworks, and more. On Saturdays the gallery often hosts a painter working en plein air. On the weekend we visit it is abstract landscape painter Rebecca Klementovich working in the garden beneath the arching boughs of a tree, facing a manicured lawn that falls away dramatically before a post-card-perfect panorama of the lake.

Next, head over to the Thrift Shop for some bargain-hunting. Enter through a side door of the Lovell United Church of Christ and follow the Christmas lights downstairs to a trove of obsolete media (CDs and VHS galore) along-side kitchen wares, clothes, and books. You never know what you might stumble across—for example, a terrier-sized doggy life jacket.

Ready for a real outdoor adventure? Lace up your hiking boots, grab sandwiches and water, and head to the Sabattus Mountain Trail. The 1.4 mile loop is short enough for most of the family to manage (and pets are allowed), yet seemingly too short for the tremendous payoff at the summit, where overlooks show Kezar Lake, the rippling hills and valleys of Western Maine, and New Hampshire’s White Mountains. Tip: This is a major leaf-peeping vantage in the fall.

If you’ve planned well, you’ll have booked a romantic dinner at the Center Lovell Inn. If not, get yourself back to the lodge by sunset so you can catch golden hour on the porch, preferably with a cocktail.

Sunday
Diners and designers

Time for eggs and potatoes (or avocado toast, if that’s your style) at The Common Loon, a.k.a. Rosie’s. A community nexus, this restaurant-slash-mercantile was long owned by Rose, but, as the menu now states, in rhyme, “Rose got tired and she chose to take a break / Now she cruises in her Mustang, around that Kezar Lake.” The new ownership left things seemingly unchanged, at least aesthetically. Eat breakfast soda-fountain style at a counter stacked with local periodicals and cake stands full of donuts and whoopie pies. Order a cheddar and spinach omelet with a cup of coffee.

Though you can’t see it from here, just up the road, past the lodge and a string of historic camps such as the Severance Club and Mudjekeewis, is the Hewnoaks artist residency, a stunning campus-like collection of cottages that could have been plucked from the Swiss Alps. Founded by artists Marion and Douglas Volk, Hewnoaks was initially intended for the Volks’ friends to visit, create, and retreat, in 1901—peak Hudson River School era. Though it was a tourist camp from the 50s to mid-2000s, it’s now in its tenth year as a bonafide artist residency under the umbrella of the University of Maine Foundation. As summer manager and artist Pamela Moulton put it, it is one of the quirkier communities in Lovell. If you’re lucky, Hewnoaks might be hosting a weekend event on its grounds, like the recent Wild Light Festival, “an afternoon of family-friendly performances, pop-up exhibitions, music, nature, and community.”

If you’ve got the golf bug, book yourself a tee time, as Lake Kezar Country Club is open to the public. Whether you’re a golfer or not, be sure to stop at Ebenezer’s Beer Pub and Restaurant just off the far end of the green, said to be one of the greatest collections of beer in the world and owned by beer-scene MVP, Chris Lively. Park in the shaded lot next to the fairytale-esque sign depicting the arched figure of, presumably, Ebenezer—Kezar lake is named for one George Ebenezer Kezar, believed to have been the first European settler in Lovell; legend has it he killed a bear with a knife in a hand-brawl. The restaurant is a marvel of olde European splendor, with heavy dark wood beams and painted beer adverts. On offer are German and Belgian-style beers like De Dolle Oerbier, and lambics such as Boon Gueuze, as well as recognizable blond ales such as Bissel Brothers’ Baby Genius. The frites are fantastic.

On your way out of town, take a detour through nearby Sweden and stop in at Pietree Orchard, owned by locals Tabitha and Stephen King. Depending on the season, you can pick your own apples or berries for the road.

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Moosehead Lake in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/moosehead-lake-in-48-hours/ Thu, 01 Sep 2022 19:42:57 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63852 FridayHome sweet campground No trip to Moosehead Lake can begin without first stopping in at Indian Hill Trading Post. This one-stop shopping experience has you covered before you head into the woods. The trading post has a wide variety of

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The public beach at Lily Bay State Park.

Friday
Home sweet campground

No trip to Moosehead Lake can begin without first stopping in at Indian Hill Trading Post. This one-stop shopping experience has you covered before you head into the woods. The trading post has a wide variety of outdoor apparel, as well as gear for boating, hunting, and fishing. There is also a fully stocked grocery store. Lily Bay State Park has long been a go-to home base for visitors. With 924 acres on the shore of Moosehead Lake and 90 campsites, this park makes for a perfect gateway to the region. Many of the sites are on the water, but for those who prefer to be a bit more tucked into the woods, there is easy access to a public beach. The campground also has several walking trails, a boat launch, and a comfort station with restrooms and heated showers. Firewood and ice can be purchased on-site.

After a long day of travel, prepping a camp meal might seem like a lot, so head back into Greenville for dinner at Stress Free Moose Pub. This local staple is always buzzing in the summer months. The restaurant has an expansive menu, two outdoor seating areas, and live local music.

Saturday
By woods, air, and water

Feeling up for a day hike? Gulf Hagas, or the “Grand Canyon of the East,” offers views of the Pleasant River as it plunges through three miles of tall slate gorges and waterfalls. The complete experience will take you on an eight-mile loop with the dramatic Screw Auger Falls at the halfway point. Another hike for the bucket list is Mount Kineo. This iconic mountain in the middle of the lake is accessible only by boat or ferry. The hiking loop is about three and a half miles and gives you excellent views of the water.

Maybe you prefer to explore by vehicle? Get your four-wheel drive ready and head down the logging roads to find some off-the-beaten-path destinations. Elephant Mountain has a trail where hikers can visit the B-52 Crash Site Memorial, where a Cold War–era plane crash of a B-52 bomber can be seen scattered throughout the woods. Only two of the nine passengers survived the tragedy. The Number Four Mountain Trail is a primitive footpath following the traditional route taken by fire wardens who once staffed the Number Four Mountain tower.

A sea plane from Jack’s Air Service sits at the docks in downtown Greenville.

Alternatively, you can easily spend a day on the water. Take a paddle around the banks of the lake, or head to nearby Prong Pond and paddle out to the island for a picnic. There are several amazing opportunities for anglers as well. If you’re got access to a boat, Moosehead has a legendary population of salmon and trout to troll for in the summer. Fly-fishers can also take a quick drive to the Roach River, in the Kokadjo region. If you’d rather just sit back and relax, book yourself a ticket on the Katahdin, affectionately known as the Kate. This steamboat was used to haul cattle and livestock across the river and is now a popular option for sightseeing.

If land and water exploration still leave you hungry for more adventure, take to the skies. Book an aerial tour of the region with Currier’s Flying Service or Jack’s Air Service. Both outfits offer several packages and options.

After a day of exploring, head back to downtown Greenville to unwind. For dinner, watch the sunset from the back deck of Dockside Inn & Tavern, then head next door to Rowboat Joe’s waterfront bar for a cocktail.

The Stress Free Moose Pub is a popular spot for visitors and locals alike.

Sunday
Safaris and shopping

Visitors to Moosehead always have their eyes peeled to catch sight of a moose. Northeast Whitewater offers guided rafting trips, but you can also sign up to join them on a Moose Safari: start your Sunday off early, throw some eggs and bacon on the grill, and head out at sunrise to catch a glimpse of the iconic Maine mammal.

Downtown Greenville has several small businesses to support while you’re in the area. Kamp Kamp Moosehead Lake Indian Store has a little bit of everything: antiques, handcrafted Maine furniture, and of course, plenty of camp decor. While you’re downtown, stop in at Northern Maine Minerals, Crazy Moose Fabrics, Maine Mountain Soap and Candle Company, and the Rock Room Candy Shoppe. On your way out of town, be sure to stop and grab lunch at Spring Creek Barbeque in Monson. The fall-off-the-bone ribs will leave a lasting impression, and Moosehead will be calling you for a return visit soon.

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Insider Tips for Visiting Belfast https://www.themainemag.com/insider-tips-for-visiting-belfast/ Tue, 02 Aug 2022 00:49:00 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63567 GET MOVING To start your morning off, stop in at Downshift Coffee on Main Street where Dunckel recommends ordering a cappuccino and sitting next to the window to watch the world go by. If you’re an avid cyclist or looking

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GET MOVING

To start your morning off, stop in at Downshift Coffee on Main Street where Dunckel recommends ordering a cappuccino and sitting next to the window to watch the world go by. If you’re an avid cyclist or looking to get into biking, be sure to check out CG Bikes, a bike shop at the back of Downshift that operates as a separate business. Whether you need a tune-up or just want to rent some wheels for the day, this is a one-stop shop to get you out on the roads and trails. Dunckel notes that visitors can bike along the waterfront paths if they want a more leisurely (albeit pedestrian-heavy) ride, or can challenge themselves by taking a spin on the newly built mountain bike trails close to downtown. If you prefer to keep both of your feet squarely on the ground, Dunckel recommends checking out the self-guided historic walking tours around town, managed by the Belfast Historical Society and Museum. Featuring a series of historic houses, churches, and commercial spaces, these tours are free to the public—visitors just need to pick up a map from the museum and walk the town at their own pace, finding an informative plaque at each destination. “It’s a great way to see the town and learn about the history,” says Dunckel. Another must on Dunckel’s list is to catch a ride on the Back and Forth—a traditional wooden lobster boat that offers various cruise options from Belfast Harbor—to Young’s Lobster Pound, where, if you BYOB, you can enjoy the state’s official sandwich with a tasty beverage while you take in the ocean views.

EAT YOUR HEART OUT

Consider yourself a foodie? You’re in luck: Belfast is known for its top-notch dining options. One of the most popular spots in town is Chase’s Daily (“Or, if you’re like me, Chase’s Twice Daily!” jokes Dunckel), a bakery, cafe, market, and art gallery that focuses on locally grown and sourced food, including produce brought in daily from a farm that is owned and operated by the Chase family. Dunckel also suggests tracking down The Moody Dog, a food truck/hot dog stand where you can order a gourmet hot dog, salads, and cupcakes among other delicacies whipped up fresh each day. If you’ve got little ones along for the ride who need some motivation to get moving, be sure to check out the Chocolate Drop Candy Shop and Wild Cow Creamery, two ice cream shops that have gotten the seal of approval from Dunckel’s children (who love the peppermint-flavored frozen treat in particular). If you’re in the mood for an adult beverage, look no further than Marshall Wharf Brewing Company, a community hub that briefly closed in 2019, only to be reopened a year and a half later by Dunckel and her husband, Dan Waldron, who wanted to carry on the business’s legacy in the Belfast community. With a friendly atmosphere, a waterfront beer garden, and over 30 beers on tap, here you’re sure to find a drink to fit the mood. If you’re looking for something with more of a pub atmosphere, check out Rollie’s Bar + Grill, where Dunckel and Waldron go when they want to watch a soccer or football game and catch up with friends from around town.

SLOW DOWN AND ENJOY

For visitors who like to move at a leisurely pace, wandering along Main Street never disappoints. Dunckel suggests checking out Brambles, a garden supply shop where you can find everything from seasonal seeds and plants to furniture to spruce up your outdoor spaces. Another of Dunckel’s favorites is Out on a Whimsey Toys, a toy store where adults and children alike can get lost for hours while letting their imaginations run wild. If you’re in town on a Friday between the hours of 9 a.m. and 1 p.m., the Belfast Farmers’ Market (located in Waterfall Arts on High Street April through October and in Aubuchon Greenhouse on Northport Avenue November through March) is always a treat, whether you have a shopping list or just want to browse. Dunckel notes that Maine-ly Poultry is one of her favorite vendors to visit, offering a selection of fresh chicken, chicken pies, and eggs that are hard to beat. If it’s raining or you’re in town for the evening, pay a visit to The Colonial Theatre, the town’s three-screen movie theater that has been operating as an entertainment venue for 110 years. In addition to its rotation of movies, the theater is occasionally used as a live music venue. Is it one of those warm summer evenings when you just want to lie on the grass and look at the sky? Dunckel suggests checking out Belfast Summer Nights, a series of live concerts from June through early September that take place out on the town green overlooking the harbor. The best part? They’re free and open to the public. Grab a blanket, pack a picnic dinner, and relax into an idyllic summer evening on the Maine coast.

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Mount Desert Island in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/mount-desert-island-in-48-hours-2/ Tue, 02 Aug 2022 00:48:36 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63566 FridayLuxury digs and dining You may be headed to Maine’s largest island to explore its diverse ecology while conquering the craggy, sometimes heart-pounding trails of Acadia National Park, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t also indulge in a bit of

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The writer’s daughter plays in the lapping waves at Sand Beach.

Friday
Luxury digs and dining

You may be headed to Maine’s largest island to explore its diverse ecology while conquering the craggy, sometimes heart-pounding trails of Acadia National Park, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t also indulge in a bit of Maine luxury. Splurge for a stay at The Claremont Hotel, a circa-1884 hotel tucked into a quiet corner of Somes Sound, the east coast’s only fjord. This superbly stylish Rusticator-era rambler recently underwent a full renovation led by hotelier Tim Harrington, the partner and creative director of Kennebunkport Resort Collection. Expect the kind of treatment one gets at the grand dame hotels of Paris and Gstaad—champagne placed in hand upon check-in, en-suite fireplaces and private decks, and multiple nooks with Sister Parish wall coverings, sumptuous armchairs dressed in William Morris and Pierre Frey fabrics, and an endless supply of heavy art books. Once you’ve unpacked, head to Harry’s Bar, the hotel’s moody, nautical cocktail bar, and enjoy a predinner gimlet on the main house porch with a view of the moored and bobbing sailboats in the harbor and the mountains beyond.

For dinner, go no further than Little Fern, just a few steps down the hall. Make a reservation upon check-in, as you’re sure to be competing with MDI’s classy set for a table. Order the rich seafood pappardelle paired with a French pinot, and be sure to save room for sunset s’mores at the firepit down by the water’s edge.

Saturday
Acadia appetites

Get going early to be sure to hit the most popular spots in Acadia National Park. Buttercup Bakery, the Claremont’s on-site coffee and sweet shop, opens at 7 a.m. and provides complimentary coffee for guests. It’s also a great place to grab a to-go pastry or breakfast bar. Planning to sea kayak, hike, and rock climb in one day—yes, you can do all three on MDI—and need more fuel? Head back to Little Fern, where you’ll find frittatas assembled in delicate layers of potato, egg, and crème fraîche, and chocolate chip pancakes served with a side of warm chocolate sauce and Maine maple syrup.

Stick your preprinted park pass on your dashboard and head to the first national park east of the Mississippi. Sand Beach, a rare sandy strand tucked into a cove between granite-studded shores, is a great place to start. Located at the beginning of the 27-mile Park Loop Road, from here you can drive down the road’s eastern, coastal section—slowly: you’ll want to take in the scenery—to get to Jordan Pond. Reservations can be made in person starting at 10:30 a.m., and service begins at 11. This historic stop has been famous for its popovers and tea since the late 1800s, and it provides an unbeatable view of the The Bubbles. Feel like getting to work? The 1.5-mile hike beginning at the Bubbles Divide parking lot is a quick way to access the iconic North Bubble, South Bubble, and Bubble Rock. More into the idea of a run? The trail circling Jordan Pond’s pristine waters is just a little over three miles and makes for a scenic, mostly flat sprint.

There are countless trails to check out each time you visit Acadia, but don’t miss the park’s famous Carriage Roads. The 45 miles of rustic, gravel-lined byways were a gift from John D. Rockefeller Jr., who, as a dedicated horseman, wanted to be able to travel motor-free through the mountains and valleys of the park. To cover as much ground as possible, rent mountain bikes from Acadia Bike or book a horse-drawn carriage from Carriages of Acadia.

Take a break from your sporting adventures and set off for some culinary ones. Abel’s Lobster on Route 3 is located on a tranquil wooded lot on the edge of Somes Sound and was a finalist in three categories of this month’s Food and Drink Reader’s Choice Awards (page 76), including best outdoor dining, best view, and best lobster roll—though the fried clams are also hard to beat. If there’s a bit of a chill beneath the fir trees, head inside, where wall-to-wall windows still offer prime views.

Started with oysters and clams and want to finish with some fowl? Peter Trout’s Tavern + Inn is a Southwest Harbor staple known for their spicy fried chicken sandwiches served with house-made slaw and thick slabs of salty fried potatoes. Order the Caesar salad, which comes with generous chunks of bacon, along with one of the many local Maine beers either on draft or in a can, and challenge your company to a bar game or puzzle while you wait for your meal (the skillet fried chicken takes 35 minutes, but it’s worth it).

Sunday
Bar Harbor and boats

If you have a bucket list, wake up before dawn and drive (with your reservation) up Cadillac Mountain, the highest point in Acadia, to watch the sunrise. To time it right, keep in mind that it takes approximately 30 minutes to drive up Cadillac Summit Road, park, and walk to a viewing spot. The experience gives you bragging rights and is an awe-inspiring start to the day.

Next, it’s off to nearby Bar Harbor. Set along Frenchman Bay, the charming town is known as the gateway to Acadia, which means it is one of the most visited villages in Maine. It’s also one of the prettiest. Grab a coffee from The Independent Cafe on Main Street, and pop in to one of the many local shops lining your route to the ocean, where you’ll find the entrance to Shore Path at the Town Pier next to Agamont Park. Constructed in the 1880s, the walking path traces the eastern side of the island and offers prime views of the water—and into the inner courts of the many high-end hotels there.

To see Acadia from the sea, book a tour on one of the boats at Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company. For a shorter, more kid-friendly ride, go for the seal and lobster tour, where you can learn more about Maine lobstering industry while the crew hauls up traps—you’ll see some crabs, too. The boat will make a stop next to Eastern Egg Rock, where sleepy seals lounge and hobble across the stones beneath Egg Rock Lighthouse. If you’ve come in June or July, you may be lucky enough to spot some puffin families. Owned by the state and managed by the Puffin Project, Eastern Egg Rock is the world’s first reestablished seabird colony and is one of the most-visited puffin islands.

Back on land and before heading home, don’t miss one of the premium scoops from Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream, which you can enjoy beside the Bar Harbor town gazebo. If it’s a sunny afternoon in the summertime, you may just find the Big Moose Contra Dance Band jamming with their fiddles, guitars, and banjos beneath the rafters, a sweet sendoff to a lively weekend.

The Batson River Fish Camp at The Claremont is perfect for a midday cocktail or a battered taco.

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Insider Tips for Visiting Norway https://www.themainemag.com/insider-tips-for-visiting-norway/ Tue, 05 Jul 2022 15:35:58 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63308 Due to its proximity to Pennesseewassee Lake and Maine’s western mountains, Norway has long been a stopover for both summer and winter excursions. At one point it was even known as the “Snowshoe Capital of the World.” We spoke with

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Photo: Emily Delamater

Due to its proximity to Pennesseewassee Lake and Maine’s western mountains, Norway has long been a stopover for both summer and winter excursions. At one point it was even known as the “Snowshoe Capital of the World.” We spoke with Sam Masabny, co-owner of The Woods Maine, a luxury treehouse getaway, and of The Woods Maine Shop retail store to get her tips for visiting her adopted hometown.

WHET YOUR APPETITE
To get a feel for the close-knit community in Norway, Masabny recommends first checking out the various local food options. In addition to being a hub for breakfast and lunch, Cafe Nomad on Main Street serves as a town gathering place complete with a large outdoor table. “After a few years of its being gone due to COVID, it’s really special to have that [table] back.” Across the street is Norway Pizza Exchange, which opened in the former location of Ari’s Pizza in June, and is already popular due to their high-quality pizza ingredients and grab-and-go gourmet sandwiches and salads. Moving east down Main Street brings you to Italian restaurant Dolce Amici (where Masabny recommends the affogato), the grilled cheese food truck Mainely Melt, and 290 Main Street, which hosts a trivia night every Tuesday. Norway Brewing Company is another staple in town, known for its wide range of craft beer and “stellar” brunch menu. Originally from Philadelphia, Masabny notes that Smokin’ Dave’s Backyard BBQ and Grill has a steak and cheese sandwich (“What I call a cheesesteak”) that lives up to her Pennsylvania standards. For visitors aiming to spend the day on the water, the Lake Store is a one-stop shop where you can get everything from pastries to produce to other odds and ends you might need on a day trip.

HIT THE SHOPS
The numerous shops and boutiques of down-town Norway cater to both casual browsers and shoppers on a mission. Masabny’s The Woods Maine Shop on Main Street offers a curated collection of goods ideal for “lake life, camp life, and home life,” and you’re sure to find something there to take with you. Next door is Brick and Mortar, which carries an eclectic collection of housewares, gardening essentials, and furniture, and Handmade Maine, which specializes in Maine-made products and carries its own brand of hand soaps manufactured on-site. Green Machine Bike Shop is a must-visit for outdoor enthusiasts, with everything from gear for a day hike to a selection of mountain bikes, and they have technicians on hand to help you hit the trails. If you’re in the market for one-of-a-kind items to fill your space with, Masabny recommends Widdershins Antiques, where she sourced numerous pieces for The Woods Maine tree-house. For craftier visitors, dual yarn and wine shop Fiber and Vine is the perfect place to buy a knitting pattern, take a class, or purchase a bottle of wine from owner Kimberly Hamlin’s curated selection. Plus, every first Friday of each month the shop reopens in the evening for wine tastings.

GET OUTSIDE
Ready to take advantage of the great outdoors? Masabny suggests starting with the Western Foothills Land Trust (WFLT), which manages over 9,000 acres of preserves in the greater Oxford Hills area, with 34 miles of trails for hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, and snow-shoeing. Among Masabny’s favorite areas managed by WFLT are Shepard’s Farm Preserve, which has a long, beautiful board-walk that wraps around a marsh, Roberts Farm Preserve, which offers free Nordic ski and snowshoe “rentals” in the winter, and Noyes Mountain Preserve, which features 3 miles of trails and 1,500-foot elevation gain that provides gorgeous lake views, especially during foliage season.

STAY IN THE LOOP
Masabny notes that, while these recommendations are an excellent start to Norway, they barely scratch the surface. To learn more about the goings on in the little mountain town, follow local nonprofit Norway Downtown on Facebook.

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St. John Valley, Aroostook County in 48 Hours https://www.themainemag.com/st-john-valley-aroostook-county-in-48-hours/ Tue, 05 Jul 2022 15:17:56 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=63297 FridayThe long drive north Start your trip with a full tank of gas, a meticulously curated Spotify playlist, cold-brew coffee, and a selection of road snacks to keep you in good spirits during the (in our case 330-mile) drive north

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Follow Route 1 to its starting point, America’s First Mile in Fort Kent.
A traditional Acadian meal of chicken stew, poutine, and ployes, some of the many options served up daily at Dolly’s Restaurant in Frenchville.

Friday
The long drive north

Start your trip with a full tank of gas, a meticulously curated Spotify playlist, cold-brew coffee, and a selection of road snacks to keep you in good spirits during the (in our case 330-mile) drive north to the St. John Valley. The sprawling County has no shortage of interesting check-points, so plan some stops along the way.

Eventually you’ll find where the 1,908 miles of I-95 comes to an end, in the Canadian border-town of Houlton. Enjoy a scenic walk through Houlton Riverfront Park, where the picturesque Gateway Crossing footbridge leads you over the water toward a variety of restaurants and shops.

If it’s early enough, follow the scent of fresh-baked doughnuts to Sadie’s Bakery, a local favorite. Grab a molasses doughnut and take a walk down Main Street toward the market square. Pop your head into shops like The County Co-Op and Farm Store for more treats and handmade products. Country North Gifts is densely packed with rustic home goods and artisanal crafts, and you can spend a good amount of time exploring the narrow aisles and shelves of curios. For a little local culture, stop in to see a movie at Temple Cinema, one of the oldest operating theaters in Maine. The large marquee is hard to miss.

Back on the road, keep an eye out for the Maine Solar System Model, a scale replica of the planets that lines Route 1 from Houlton to Presque Isle. Feeling hungry? Northern Maine Brewing Company in Caribou can fix that. A popular brewpub with a variety of delicious microbrews (try the Windrower Wheat, a refreshing, light, and slightly spiced ale) as well as a menu of elevated pub fare. If you’re eager to get on with your drive and are looking for somewhere a little more casual, Burger Boy in Caribou is your spot. This retro drive-in is a popular seasonal stop in the County that slings burgers, fried seafood, and sundaes with the option to order from the drive-thru or to sit inside and admire the interior’s colorful murals.

Finally, check in at the Inn of Acadia in Madawaska, the perfect home base for your Acadian adventures. The large rooms are comfortable and tastefully decorated, with views of the St. John River and Canada beyond. Be sure to set up a reservation at the inn’s Voyager Lounge restaurant, or unwind after the long drive with a cocktail at the bar. The staff is knowledgeable about the area and eager to point you in the right direction for great trails, restaurants, and other activities.

Saturday
Ployes, parks, and poutine

Begin your morning with a visit to Misty Meadows Organic Farm, which is easy to spot: there’s a giant strawberry out front. This restaurant serves up farm-to-table fare from their own backyard, and the interior is decked out with local handmade crafts and gifts that you can purchase in the attached shop. If there’s a long wait for a table, take the opportunity to explore the gardens, feed the animals, or drool over the bakery case filled with home-made treats.

If you overindulged at breakfast, find the Four Seasons Trail Association just up the hill from the hotel. Built and maintained for the community almost entirely by volunteers, the impressive trail system runs over 250 acres and is multiuse depending on the season—Nordic skiing and snowshoeing in the winter and trail running, hiking, and mountain biking in the warmer months. Forgot your gear at home? The lodge has everything you need available for rent, as well as hot coffee, a warm fireplace, and plenty of tables where you can sit and enjoy the view of the mountains and woods beyond.

Another local favorite, Dolly’s Restaurant, sits just outside of Madawaska in the neighboring town of Frenchville—and much of the chatter you’ll overhear there will indeed be in French. The bustling diner serves up hearty Acadian classics like chicken stew with dumplings, generous stacks of buttered ployes, and poutine (pronounced poo-TSIN). On your way over, make sure to stop at the Madawaska Four Corners Park. This northeastern-most park is a destination for motorcyclists who have challenged themselves to visit the four corners of the United States. Rich in history, this unique park is worth a visit.

Located about half an hour down Route 1 from Madawaska, Fort Kent is a bustling little town of interest. Take the time to check out roadside attractions like the Blockhouse, a monument commemorating the Aroostook War, a bloodless dispute between the United States and the United Kingdom over the border between Canada and the USA. The replica fort is now a small museum open in the summer, where you can learn about the history of Acadian culture in the States. Fort Kent is also home to America’s First Mile, from which US Route 1 can be followed all the way to Key West, Florida. Nearby, check out the appropriately named First Mile Brewing Company for a variety of microbrews crafted on-site. Feeling peckish? Walk across the street to Swamp Buck Restaurant and Lounge, open seven days a week with a great surf and turf menu, from filet mignon to fried clams.

Jump back into the car and tune the radio to one of the various French Canadian broadcasts. Even if you can’t sing along, enjoy the opportunity to listen to some French-language tunes as you make the drive out of Fort Kent up to Fish River Falls Trail. The out-and-back hiking trail is an invigorating walk through the woods and across a grass airstrip to the Fish River, a Class IV rapid. The trail can be followed up and down the river, with many spots to stop and admire the view, but be sure to mind the slippery rocks near the riverbank.

Next, take the winding drive up Route 161 to Stockholm. The route will take you through sprawling potato fields under a wide stretch of sky unlike any other in Maine. As you leave the fields and enter the forested section of road, pay attention to the signs warning of moose in your path. In Stockholm, check out Anderson’s Store for grab-and-go pastries and sandwiches. If you remembered to call ahead for a reservation, stop in at Eureka Hall Restaurant for dinner and live music. The walls are adorned with merch, notes, and memorabilia from bands that have performed there, including some familiar names such as the Ghost of Paul Revere and Muddy Ruckus.

Sunday
Au revoir, Aroostook

If you’re driving back to Portland or anywhere further down the coast, it’s best to plan for an early start. The Inn of Acadia serves breakfast every day, so head up to the lounge and grab a hot cup of coffee and a made-to-order breakfast ploye, rolled up with your choice of apple, blue-berry, or strawberry filling. If you need a little more caffeine to make it home, just around the corner you’ll find a Tim Hortons, the border-land’s favored coffee shop.

On your way out of the St. John Valley, say goodbye to the Maine Tribute Moose in Van Buren, right by the border crossing. Take a close look—the life-size bronze sculpture is adorned with a variety of Maine symbols, including a bronze can of Moxie by the moose’s hooves.

The open skies and distant horizons of the County’s potato fields on Route 161 make for dramatic sunsets.

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48 Hours: The Ultimate Summer Guide https://www.themainemag.com/48-hours-the-ultimate-summer-guide/ Fri, 10 Jun 2022 13:40:36 +0000 https://www.themainemag.com/?p=62949 48 Hours: The Ultimate Summer Guide No matter where you want to go in Maine this summer—from island trips to oyster tours to art havens— we have you covered. by Anna Fiorentino, Hadley Gibson, Alexandra Hall, Catie Joyce-Bulay, and Paul

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48 Hours: The Ultimate Summer Guide

No matter where you want to go in Maine this summer—from island trips to oyster tours to art havens— we have you covered.

by Anna Fiorentino, Hadley Gibson, Alexandra Hall, Catie Joyce-Bulay, and Paul Koenig
Photography by Kelsey Gayle, Heidi Kirn, Melissa Olander, and Daniel Orr
Illustrations by Olivia Ryder

Issue: June 2022

Summer in Maine comes once a year, so we rounded up our favorite destinations to take advantage of the season. Whether you’re seeking inspiration for a weeklong vacation or just something to do on a warm Saturday afternoon, this guide is for you. The only question is, where will you go first?


A Weekend in Kennebunk + Kennebunkport

The Kennebunks are picture-perfect coastal towns between Portland and Maine’s southern border that deliver ocean views and plenty of dining options.


A Weekend on the Boothbay Peninsula

A trip to the villages of Boothbay, Boothbay Harbor, and Southport gives weekend visitors a taste of the best that the coast has to offer.


A Day in the Belgrade Lakes Region

The web of pine-lined ponds that make up the Belgrade Lakes region has captured the imagination of travelers and artists for centuries. As E.B. White wrote in his essay “Once More to the Lake,” “None of us ever thought there was any place in the world like that lake in Maine.” To make the most of a day trip to the region is to surrender to the slow pace of a fisherman waiting for a great catch, to idle in tiny pastoral towns, and to pause long enough to hear the babble of the rushing brooks and streams that weave together its seven lakes.


A Day in Oqunquit

The many overlapping layers of culture across this oceanfront resort town have made it a magnet for vacationing families, art connoisseurs, the LGBTQ+ community, and nature lovers. That glorious human mix means that, no matter who you are, you’ll rarely long for something stimulating to jump into around Ogunquit.


A Guide to the Casco Bay Islands

The islands reachable via Casco Bay Lines ferry service out of Portland don’t just boast pine-dotted shores, protected harbors, tight-knit fishing communities, and sea life galore. They also offer a slew of activities: from hiking and biking trails to tennis and golf to fine dining and camping. And one thing they all have in spades is a notably slower pace of life and the bliss that comes with it.


A Day in the Sebago Lakes Region

Nirvana for freshwater enthusiasts, this is where vacationers mingle with locals all summer long. By day’s end almost every adult seems to have a sunburn on their neck and a beer in their hands. It’s a kids’ playground, too, of course, with numerous water sports available, from pontoon boat rentals and fully rigged fishing trips to simply jumping off a gigantic rock again and again…and again.


A Damariscotta River Oyster Tour

The Damariscotta River is world-famous for its oysters, and there’s never been a better time to shuck and slurp your way through the region. Many of the river’s oyster farms provide tours of their growing operations, and some now have markets for taking their bivalves home with you as well as outdoor seating for on-site sampling.


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